CEL on with several codes. Is DBALL2 the culprit

I installed DBALL2 and Avital 5303p in my 2016 Altima. The alarm and remote start feature mostly work fine, except that the car has trouble communicating with the intelligent key when driving away after remote starting, i.e. I need to press the start button multiple times before I can start driving, otherwise the car shuts down when I depress the brake. There is also warning like "I-KEY SYSTEM...PLEASE REFER TO MANUAL"

Yesterday, I had difficulty starting the car. After I final got it started with a different smart key, the check engine light went on, so I took it to the dealer today. They found several error codes:U1000, U0100, B20A2, B2267


They said that there were modifications so warranty was voided. They would charge several hundred dollars for diagnose alone.

Here are my questions. Are the CEL caused by the alarm/RS system? If so, should I worried about the codes? Should I just have them cleared, or should I get them diagnosed? I read that only when the dealer can prove that the modification caused the problem can they deny the warranty. Do they have ground to deny the warranty yet?

Any help is much appreciated.

I am not an expert on remote starts/bypasses but I have experience with dealerships. When you bring your car in to a dealership for repair you are normally asked to sign a work order which says, among other things "all warranty subject to factory approval". Technically, nothing is warranty until the manufacturer pays the claim. The manufacturer can't be at the dealership every day, obviously, so the dealership staff represent the manufacturer. In a case like yours, the dealership has a duty to assess, based on a balance of probabilities, if the fault would be due to a defect in the vehicle or something that has been added on. The installation of add-on equipment, in itself, does not necessarily void the warranty. From what I have seen in this forum, remote starts and bypasses do not normally cause check engine lights to go on, but improper installation or application of these items certainly can. When did the check engine light start coming on? Just after or shortly after you installed the R/S and bypass? If so, would you think that the light coming on now is just a co-incidence? You've tapped into the network and now you're getting network codes. You might want to disconnect everything you've done and have the codes cleared and see if the light comes back on. If there is a hard fault right now and you simply clear the codes it may not make any difference - the light will just come back on. I would definitely worry about the light being on - a problem with the communication network means the modules may not be communicating with each other properly which could cause consequential (mechanical) damage which again, for the same reasons, wouldn't be covered under warranty. I hope this helps to clear things up. It's a bit of a gray area where you won't know the absolute answer until after the problem has been diagnosed and fixed - and until then you are likely on the hook for the costs.

Thanks for the reply. The alarm/RS was installed more than half a year ago, and the CEL came on days ago. As to whether the bypass module can cause problem, I remember some senior members said that it may cause codes and even ECM damage.

I live in LA. You know, car theft is a big concern here. Therefore, I am unwilling to remove the alarm system, which has already prevented several break-in attempts. Is it really so hard to have more advanced alarm system without possibly causing problems to new cars?

Someone reading your original post would come to the conclusion that you just recently installed your remote start, it has never worked properly, and now your check engine light is on. Your last post tells a somewhat different story. I can tell you that the dealership I work in installs remote starts regularly on brand new vehicles (2017's) and never has a problem. Maybe someone on here that is more familiar with remote starts than I am can help you with possible installation concern(s). You may want to post your wiring connections in order for them to help you better. Hope this helps.

I did a install on a 2013 pts Altima. These cars are extremely sensitive if you follow install guide exactly and properly solder every wire it will work great . The ignition wires are 20 gauge or smaller which causes bad connections with t-taps or other methods . Double check connections and make sure they are secure

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bat9905

Also just to add, manufactures cannot void warranty based solely on aftermarket parts . The dealership would have to prove shoddy work to legally deny warranty . Check out case law on magnuson moss act

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bat9905

your problems sound like maybe a connection that was made to the data network wires may be going bad, i always solder connections like that but i know lots of shops that will use T-taps or butt connectors and they do nothing but cause problems down the line. i would go back to where you had it installed and ask them to check their connections. or take it to a different shop and ask them to just look to see if the connections could be better. even if the connections were good when it was first installed, over time with heat and vibration they can go bad especially if they used cheap or over sized connectors for the size of the wire