Subaru BRZ Limited Alarm/Drone Mobile install

Vehicle: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited with Push to Start, Keyless/Proximity Entry.

So I have a few questions, and I have not been able to find any definitive info, so I figure the best place to check would be here.

What I am looking for in an alarm system:
1: Use factory key fob to arm and disarm alarm/unlock doors.
2: Use mobile app to arm and disarm alarm/unlock doors/monitor vehicle/gps tracking/alarm notifications etc etc.

From the research I've done. I believe I need the following:

1: Compustar CM6300 Alarm Kit
2: IDatalink Blade-AL
3: Drone Mobile DR-3100 Add-On Module

With this set up, I believe everything should work as I intend it. My main issue is with the wiring. I can be pretty OCD, and was kind of annoyed there were no T-Harnesses or adapter harnesses available for my car. One of my stipulations for the install is that no factory wires are cut or modified in anyway, I am looking for a truly plug and play type install. I've had too many bad installs in the past that caused costly electrical problems down the line, so I want something that is simple and will plug right in.

The Blade-AL has a great vehicle-specific wiring diagram:




The manual for the CM6300 says when using the Blade-AL, you only need to connect the main ignition harness and your required wires on the 20 pin Blade connector.

Here is the wiring diagram for the CM6300:




So if I am correct, I only need to wire up CN1 on the CM6300, and the 20-pn Blade-AL connector. Easy enough, right?

Here is where I am getting confused. The Blade-AL instructions show wires going into two places:

1: 8 wires going into the 20 pin Blade Connector.
2: 4 wires going into a remote starter.

Since I do not want, and are not installing a remote start, is it safe to say I do not need to make these connections?

If I am understanding this correctly, I believe I only need to connect two things:

first: CN1 on the CM6300, which based off the wiring diagram has 4 wires:
wire 1: 12v constant
wire 2: 12v/parking light out - selectable by jumper NOTE: I am pretty confused about what exactly I am supposed to do with this wire.. more on this later
wire 3: 12v to ignition
wire 4: ground

second: 20 pin Blade-AL connector, based off wiring diagram has 8 wires that need to be connected:
wire 1: white/black - immobilizer (data) vehicle side (immobilizer wire is cut and this connects to the wire going away from connector)
wire 2: white/red - immobilizer (data) connector side (immobilizer wire is cut and this connects to the wire going to connector, and T connected to the orange/black - immobilizer wire 5)
wire 3: brown/red - canh
wire 4: brown/yellow - canl
wire 5: orange/black -immobilizer (data) connector side (this is T connected to the white/red - immobilizer wire 2)
wire 6: pink - ignition (+) input
wire 7: blue/red - ground (-) input
wire 8: blue/yellow - pts (-) output


So hopefully this all makes sense so far, because I feel pretty confident that these are all the connections that have to be made, and this is where I have questions.


1: For CN1 on the CM6300, I am a little lost of what they mean by the 12v/parking light out - selectable by jumper wire. I have no clue what it does, or where it goes..

The manual shows this information about the jumper:
Determines the output type (not polarity) of the green/white wire on connector one (CN1). In the default
position it provides a positive (+) parking light output. To change to a positive (+) trunk output move the
jumper. A negative (-) parking light output is found on connector three (CN3) and a negative (-) trunk
output is found on connector four (CN4).

And this is what it says it needs to be connected to:
Green/White – This is a dual-purpose wire that features selectable functionality thru the trunk/light
jumper on the control module. It is either a positive (+) parking light output or positive (+) trunk
output. This wire carries a 10 amp fuse.
Default - Parking light positive (+) output. The proper vehicle wire will test (+) 12V when the parking
light switch is in the on position.
Optional – Trunk release positive (+) output. The proper vehicle wire will test (+) 12V when the trunk
release is triggered.

Any clarification on what they mean by that, would be greatly appreciated.

2: For the Balde-AL 20-pin connector, since I am not using the remote start, do I even need to splice and connect the immobilizer wire? Part of me says yes, part of me says no.
If I understand correctly, the Blade-AL IS an immobilizer bypass unit, and needed for the remote start since I have a keyless entry system (in order for it to "sense" the key) SO if I wanted remote start,
I would definitely need to connect this wire.
However, I also think that because I want to be able to lock and unlock the car from my phone, that I need to connect this, so the car can also "sense" the key.

Which leads me to believe that if i DON'T connect this wire, when I lock and unlock the car, it will set off the alarm because the car does not "sense" the key.

I don't necessarily need to be able use the phone to control the car, I mainly just want to be notified when/if my alarm has been triggered, and to gps track the car.

3: It seems that the CN1 connector from the CM6300 needs to connect to a few of the same wires the Blade-AL does, would it be okay to source these from the same location? Or should they be connected seperately?

4: Do the grounds have to be chassis grounds? Or can they be connected to another ground wire in the vehicle?

My plan is to make (or have made) a T Harness/Adapter Harness/Extension Harness (whatever you want to call it) in order to make this a plug and play install, so figuring out what wires I need and don't need, is key to doing this correctly

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated! And if anyone is local to the SF Bay Area and would be interested in working on this project, I'm sure we could work something out monetary wise. :)

Update: I found a wiring information guide for the BRZ, so I believe that 12v/parking light out - selectable by jumper wire that I was confused about, needs to connect to the wire on this diagram as shown:

Parking Lights (+) red wire

Interesting project. If you can come up with the required connectors to make it Plug-n-Play, you could make a
bunch of friends on a FR-S / BRZ forum. Remember that adding in a poor quality T-Harness could inject some
problems.

A regular, properly installed system should last the life of the vehicle. This would include all the things good
installers do as a standard practice. All connections should be soldered and insulated with high quality electric
tape. The chassis ground connection should be a soldered terminal ring attached to a clean and rust / paint free
solid metal frame point. The R/S system should be securely mounted out of the way and all wire runs leaving the
unit should be bundled, sheathed, run neatly and cut to length. Basically it should look factory when finished.

Anyway, your plan looks good but there is one thing you should check with iDatalink Tech Support first. The Blade
module programming procedure uses the KLON process. This two part process learns the vehicles transponder
code, decodes it and then writes it back to the module for R/S usage. Since you do not plan on making all the
connections shown in the Type 6 diagram, you won't be able to follow the programming guide. There should be
a way around it and the call the iDatalink Tech Support is in order.

As for the Parking Lights, why not use the (-) Parking Light signal? The CM6x00 system has a specific (-)
Parking Light Output ( CN4 Pin 3 ) and that vehicle wire is behind the Glove Box where you are making most
of your connections. It could even be incorporated into the Plug-n-Play harness. That way, there would be no
jumper or programming changes needed.

Personally, I would go with the full remote start and alarm system. There wouldn't be much extra in cost and the
added feature of R/S would be a big plus. Of course, there is the added entry into Reservation Mode with your
manual transmission BRZ to deal with, but isn't a big deal.

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Soldering is fun!