2009 Nissan Titan RS Grind

Hello.

Since installing my remote start a few years ago, the starter grinds slightly for a second or two when remote starting. It is not consistent when it does this, so sometimes it will grind, other times it won't. I tried programming the starter (Code Alarm CA6554) to tachless method, still grinds. I wired a ignition coil sensing wire, still grinds. Looking in the manual, which one of these should I use?

TACH
Tachless (crank average/voltage)
Hybrid (crack average/no voltage)
DBI


What should I do?

Thanks

Mark

Go with the TACH option--this is the best way for the remote start to get feedback that the engine has started. I would hook the purple/white wire to any fuel injector (other than the white common wire),   Program the unit for TACH, and go through the tach learning process:

To learn tach:
1. Turn the ignition key to the ON position.
2. Press and release the valet/override button 3 times.
3. Immediately turn the ignition key OFF.
4. Press and hold the valet/override button, then start the vehicle using
the key.
5. When the unit senses the tach signal, the parking lights will begin to flash.
6. Allow the vehicle to settle to a normal idle speed.
7. Release the valet/program push-button switch. The parking lights will
turn on for 2 seconds and 1 long chip will indicate that the learned tach signal is stored and the unit has exited tach learn mode.

NOTE: If the unit fails to learn tach rate due to an improper tach connection or a
poor tach source, the parking lights will not flash. To correct this situation, locate and
connect the PURPLE/WHITE wire to the proper tach signal, and then repeat the tach
learn routine.


Hope this helps.

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Lectric Guy

This may be a bypass issue. All of the "big three" bypass companies ignored this issue when it first started to happen around 2008. The fix was to add a relay at the ipdm. More recent firmware updates addressed the issue by interfacing with the clock and data wires coming off of the key cylinder. Do you know what bypass and firmware version is in the truck?

Thx. I will try your suggestions and answer your questions when I go out and work on her again.

Ok, I went out and looked at my wiring again. It appears that the wire going into the 8-pin connector was loose in the connector and not making good contact! I put a new pin/wire in the connector, did the tach relearn, and it seems to be remote starting much better. Hopefully this was the issue.

Beggbie,

My bypass is a Xpresskit DLPK, Hardware Ver: 2, Software: 14.07

Ya the contact could be a problem.

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AI

Well, the grind is back. What should I do next?

Your description sounds exactly like the bypass issue I mentioned earlier. We chased this issue for months back in 08-09 and also thought it was a tach issue. The real issue is that the starter is actually disengaging and re-engaging very quickly during crank. You can prove it by inserting a key in the ignition (don't turn it on) while remote starting and seeing if the noise is still there. I'll bet it won't be. If it's not, check and see if there is a relay installed at the IPDM in the engine compartment. If there is no relay, there should be. While I couldn't find a diagram for the DLPK, the DLPK is just a rebranded can-sl2 from Fortin Electronics. Take a look at this guide for the IPDM relay wiring on page 3. https://cdn.fortin.ca/download/46021/can-sl2_nissaninfiniti_o.pdf

beegbie wrote:

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Your description sounds exactly like the bypass issue I mentioned earlier. We chased this issue for months back in 08-09 and also thought it was a tach issue. The real issue is that the starter is actually disengaging and re-engaging very quickly during crank. You can prove it by inserting a key in the ignition (don't turn it on) while remote starting and seeing if the noise is still there. I'll bet it won't be. If it's not, check and see if there is a relay installed at the IPDM in the engine compartment. If there is no relay, there should be. While I couldn't find a diagram for the DLPK, the DLPK is just a rebranded can-sl2 from Fortin Electronics. Take a look at this guide for the IPDM relay wiring on page 3. https://cdn.fortin.ca/download/46021/can-sl2_nissaninfiniti_o.pdf

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I know I didn't install any relay for the IPDM, the only relay I installed came with the kit for the 2nd starter wire. I will try your test later on regarding inserting the key. How would I wire up the other relay? Would you suggest I get a different bypass, say a Dball2 or similar?

I wouldn't change the bypass. Much easier to just add the relay. Did you see the diagram in my previous post? Take a look and let us know if you have any questions.

beegbie wrote:

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I wouldn't change the bypass. Much easier to just add the relay. Did you see the diagram in my previous post? Take a look and let us know if you have any questions.

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I didnt see the link initially. Thank you. I swapped my tach wite from a ignition coil to an injector. Ill see how that goes. Ill check back in a few days.