2 x Momentary + in to 2 x latched + out

Gday,

Bit of an odd one (well for me).
I had a Viper 700VR (?) alarm installed into my Toyota Hilux earlier in the year. They appear to have tapped into the factory wiring with a momentary positive signal to lock, and a separate momentary positive signal to unlock to trigger the alarm.

I'm wanting to use these 2 x positive lock and unlock wires to trigger some extra actuators to lock my toolbox/canopy on the back of the tray. I bought an aftermarket actuator kit, which has a little black box and 5 x wires for the "drivers door" and 2 wire actuators for the rest of the doors. I was going to use this box as I thought I had to and hence was trying to switch the 2 x positive lock/unlock signals to 2 x negative signals as the box wants a 2 x negative signals (switched?) to lock/unlock. After reading on here, it appears I can just use all the actuators as a 2 wire system, and ditch the box.

I used these wires directly to the actuators, however when the actuators throw, they don't stay at max travel and therefore don't allow the doors to stay locked. I basically want a latched positive output so that when I lock the car and the car gives a positive momentary signal, I want the actuators to get a latched signal so that the actuators stay at max throw (that's how I thought they should work anyway?). Then when I unlock and the car gives a momentary positive signal from the other wire, I want the actuators to pull back and rest (could be latched there too but not important). Will staying latched at full throw kill the battery?

I'll add some pictures of the alarm wiring diagram as it doesn't appear I can add other actuators directly triggered by the alarm, as well as the wiring diagram for the actuator kit I bought.

Thanks for any info in advance!

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4SUmxqv8_ILdE5HRV85LTZqa2s

Above is a link to my googĺe drive folder with the wiring diagrams for my alarm and aftermarket actuators.

Should've said I followed this diagram https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram49.html and it worked nut I need it to latch so the actuators stay out to keep the door locked.

You are correct in that staying latched (energized) will kill the battery. It'll also shorten the life of the actuator. Assuming the actuator is switching between unlocked and locked positions and not returning to one rest state, you should devise the mechanics to work within the abilities of the actuator. That or use an actuator that better fits your mechanical requirements.

Definitely do not attempt to send a latched output to the actuators. If you do, you will destroy them. If the actuators are not locking or unlocking the doors properly, you'll need to adjust the alignment and/or rod connection of each one accordingly until they do.

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