Kenny, A great idea. I filled out the template form for my 2003 Monaco motorhome. This may be different from other vehicle issues. I hope I am posting in the correct place. I'm a newbie here so I am not sure if I can start a new thread.
My motorhome has a remote keyless system which is no longer made; likewise the MH manufacturer went thru bankruptcy and two new owners. The current keyless entry receiver works but I have only one working remote which is barely working (only at a range of 2' or less) so I am looking to replace the keyless entry receiver and remotes. After looking at numerous brands it appears that the Viper 211HV or equivalent Avital 2101L would fit the bill. There may be others but the range and relatively good rep of the company pointed me in that direction. I have a few questions before I choose that model.
Looking at their wiring chart I want to be sure I understand what is going on inside these units. For example, the "LOCK wiring (H1-5 to 7) are labeled "#30 COMMON OUTPUT" "#87 NORMALLY CLOSED" and "#87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT)". [The last one in particular is puzzling, or is there a tyupo?) Usually the terminology for "87a" type relays is that when at rest, terminals 30 and 87a are connected, eg "87a" is normally closed, and when energized, terminals 30 and 87 are connected, eg "87" is normally open. The "input" in the above note seems to be referring to some sensor, but maybe not. Similar question in their diagram for the "UNLOCK" wires (H1-8,9,17) they do call 87a normally closed here.
My thought is that to work my Lock-ALL and UNlock-ALL functions, the respective "30" terminals would connect to ground and the correct "87" terminals (e.g. the ones which are normally open and connect to their respective "30's" when energized). to the respective lock and unlock wires in my motorhome. Another nice feature would be to be able to unlock _only_ the driver door, since currently I have a wire for that function. It appears that the H1-2, Blue wire on the 211HV would do that thru an external relay but maybe there's another way. Finally the H1-10 "Parking Light Flash" output could probably work to flash my park lights but there's no indication of the current capacity of this output.
Thank you in advance for your attention. I've posted the spreadsheet filled out on Dropbox at
03_Dynasty_Connections_Template.
I will appreciate your advice.
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Rick P
This should be fairly easy assuming that your Motorhome has power door locks and you have already found
the wires that do exactly what you want. The Viper 211HV is a solid unit that has decent range if the antenna
is well placed. Here is the wiring for your application :
H1/1 RED (+) 12V CONSTANT POWER INPUT Red +12V Constant
H1/2 BLUE (-) 200 mA SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT Purple/White
H1/3 BLACK/WHITE-1 IN DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #87 Optional
H1/4 BLACK/WHITE OUT DOMELIGHT SUPER RELAY #30 Optional
H1/5 GREEN/BLACK LOCK #30 COMMON OUTPUT White/Green
H1/6 WHITE/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY CLOSED not used
H1/7 VIOLET/BLACK LOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) Chassis Ground
H1/8 BLUE/BLACK UNLOCK #30 COMMON (OUTPUT) White/Red
H1/9 VIOLET UNLOCK #87 NORMALLY OPEN (INPUT) Chassis Ground
H1/10 WHITE (+/-) PARKING LIGHT FLASH OUTPUT White * set Viper to (-)
H1/11 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND INPUT Chassis Ground
H1/12 BROWN (-) HORN HONK OUTPUT Optional
H1/13 LT. GREEN/BLACK FACTORY ALARM DISARM not used
H1/14 WHITE/BLUE (-) 200 mA CHANNEL 3 VALIDITY OUTPUT not used
H1/15 YELLOW (+) SWITCHED IGNITION INPUT (ACCESSORY) Optional ( alarm & lock function )
H1/16 ORANGE (-) 500 mA GROUND-WHEN-ARMED OUTPUT not used
H1/17 BROWN/BLACK UNLOCK #87A NORMALLY CLOSED not used
H1/18 RED/WHITE (-) OUTPUT OF CHANNEL 2 not used
Domelight Supervision is optional. Check first to see if an unlock from the current FOB turns on the
interior light(s). If it does, you should be all set. If it does not, then with some research you might be able
to find a wire going to the domelight and tap into that with H1/4 after inputting the correct polarity signal
at H1/3.
H1/15 is optional. Read the description of that wires function. If you want that feature, locate the Ignition
wire at the ignition switch and make the connection. It will also give you "ignition controlled door locks".
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Soldering is fun!
Sorry, to answer your question about the relays, you should use the Directed 451M Install Guide as a reference. Being as it's a Directed product, the door lock relay wires are the same colors. You are basically connecting up the 211HV to a Type B Door Lock system in the Motorhome. You can also check out this sites Door Lock wiring diagrams. Here is a link : https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagram4.html
The Parking Light output is rated at 10 Amps.
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Soldering is fun!
Thank you! The 10 a parking light output is quite adequate then; it should be able to flash my clearance lights all 'round.
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Rick P
Hi again Kenny, Finally got to do the hook-up. Everything works.
I followed your guide, thanks again for that. The only thing that concerned me is the: "H1/2 BLUE (-) 200 mA SECOND UNLOCK OUTPUT Purple/White". This output, on cars might trigger a trunk unlock but the "trunk-unlock" on my MH is a bunch of solenoids (seven) on the lower bay doors. Instead of directly wiring this I ran the output of the box to an 87a type relay and use the relay to energize the bay doors. If I understand this correctly, the 200 ma capacity wouldn't be enough to handle all the current to those solenoids.
Later today or tomorrow I will connect this permanently. It's nice to have remotes which actually work from my house while the MH is in the driveway. :-)
I am planning to hook up the 'horn-honk' output "H1/12 BROWN (-) HORN HONK OUTPUT Optional" ... but not to the airhorn. I'll connect a regular 12volt car horn. Not sure if I'll need a relay here also since I'm unsure how much current that circuit can carry. Is that amp rating available?
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Rick P
TO clarify the above post... I did some researching thru my circuitry. There are a bunch of 87-type relays: Two are for front door, one for lock and one for unlock. Four are for the bay doors, a pair for each side. The "Lock" output controls all these in locking front and bay doors. I connected wires for both the front door and bay door relays to the "Unlock" output so not the unlock button on the remote unlocks both front and bay doors. What I haven't tried yet is directly connecting the 200ma output wire to those bay door unlock relays, considering the 200 ma max capacity. If I knew the max coil current in those relays is low enough I could try it. Anyone know what current to expect?
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Rick P