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Compustar CM3000, Brake Wire Issue

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=144168
Printed Date: October 31, 2024 at 6:08 PM


Topic: Compustar CM3000, Brake Wire Issue

Posted By: ggrant3
Subject: Compustar CM3000, Brake Wire Issue
Date Posted: February 19, 2018 at 2:13 PM

I bought and installed this alarm (compustar 2WSS-AS) way back in '04-'05. Installed it myself and it worked perfectly for 9 years. When I sold that car I removed the alarm.

I am now installing it on my new project car and have run into a couple issues.

The alarm was setup for remote start (manual trans), turbo timer, keyless, horn output, the basic remote start/alarm.

As it stands now, the alarm will arm/disarm and kill the starter (while armed). When triggered, the siren, horn, and parking lights do what they're supposed to do. But the door locks don't do anything they don't lock or unlock when being armed/disarmed. And the car won't go into reservation mode to prepare for either turbo timer or remote start functions.

The first car and this one both use one wire door locks, so I used a resistor to test the current install and when I rig up a test wire and apply 12v to the lock/unlock wire the locks will lock and then when I add in the resistor they unlock, so I know I have the correct wire. But when I wire up that setup to the cm3000 nothing happens. Is it possible the door lock/unlock feature can be turned off and needs to be turned on somehow?

I've done programming to turn on features like the turbo timer and change settings with the remote, but don't recall ever seeing anything about the door lock/unlock being able to be turned on/off.

I'm not really sure what could be the problem with the reservation mode issue though unless it could be the same thing.

The tach wire is setup properly, I was able to verify that it's getting a good reading by pressing the tach learn switch and I get a one chirp response, but that's as far as I could get, any ideas?

I've found another cm3000, so if mine is bad, then it's bad. But I don't want to get another one just to find out I have the same problem.

Edit:
The original car this was installed in was a '04 SRT4, the current install is on a '94 Ford Probe GT (if it matters)



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 19, 2018 at 6:23 PM
The Neons one-wire lock system was (-) based and the Probes one-wire lock system is (+) based.
The CM3000 only outputs a (-) lock signal. That's why it worked on the Dodge and won't work
on the Probe. You need relays or a DEI 451M door lock module to get it working. These will
convert the CM3000's (-) lock outputs to (+). That plus the correct resistor (4.7K ) and
you're all set.

The DEI451M Install guide is in the Downloads section, or use the top diagram and relays :
https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/26500_PROBE_PROBE%20%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 5:33 AM
Wow, didn't even consider that. I don't have that information on any of my vehicle wire guides.

Thank you.

So if I used a relay it's as simple as this link, right? - Convert - to + with relay

Any idea what is causing the remote start/reservation mode from not working?

As I mentioned the tach signal is good, I've got a good one chirp confirmation when I press the tach switch.

I checked the brake switch last night and it is a + signal from the switch, and the emergency brake gives off a neg signal.

Is there a way to program the remote start and/or reservation mode from being on/off via the remote?

I don't know if this is the case, but the alarm has been disconnected for a couple years, not sure if it has an internal battery and would somehow reset to factory default or turn off or something odd like that.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 5:56 AM
Yes on the relay for (-) to (+) conversion. That is what the relays in the Bulldog Security diagram are doing.
The DEI 451M module does that too and it has a nice assortment or resistors, including the needed 4.7K ohm.
The 451M goes for around $10 and is a nice compact package.

There are Install Guides for your CM3000 in the Downloads section.

As for Reservation Mode, do you have the CM3000 Door Trigger Input wire connected to the Probe? That is a must
plus you should monitor the Trunk and Hood.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 9:41 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Yes on the relay for (-) to (+) conversion. That is what the relays in the Bulldog Security diagram are doing.
The DEI 451M module does that too and it has a nice assortment or resistors, including the needed 4.7K ohm.
The 451M goes for around $10 and is a nice compact package.

There are Install Guides for your CM3000 in the Downloads section.

As for Reservation Mode, do you have the CM3000 Door Trigger Input wire connected to the Probe? That is a must
plus you should monitor the Trunk and Hood.



Yes I do have the door trigger hoked up to the cm3000, it works too because if the car is armed and the door is opened it triggers the alarm.

Trunk is connected too

I have the installation paperwork for the cm3000, I meant I wasn't aware of the -/+ differences between the two cars, I don't have that info on the wiring paperwork I download from here.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 3:49 PM
I've done a few R/S's with the newer CM5200 and CM6200 units on MT vehicles but never
one with the CM3000 brain. With the newer units, to get into reservation mode, the
engine would be running, set Parking Brake, release foot brake, the Parking lights would
flash, remove key and the car would stay running. Open door, get out, close door and
the engine would shut down and the doors would lock. Not sure if it's the same with the
CM3000. Anyway what you need to do that is the Main Ignition wire connected, the Brake
wire connected, the Parking Brake wire connected, Tach wire connected, Tach programmed,
and the Door Trigger wire connected. The CM3000 knows the engine is running and sees
you set the Parking Brake and release the foot brake. It flashes the Parking Lights
and sends power out on the ignition wires. You remove the key and the engine
stays running. The CM300 waits to see the door open and then all doors closed. It
shuts down the engine and locks the doors. If anything is not connected / working
properly - no reservation mode. So double check all those wires for proper signals.


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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 5:06 PM
Yeah the cm3000 goes into reservation mode the same way, that's how it worked when this was installed on my last car

Yes they are all connected, tach is connected, tach is programmed.

But I was wondering today if maybe the polarity of one of those wires is reversed on this car compared to the last car this was on. Maybe one of those needs to be switched (most likely the brake pedal or emergency brake). But I *think* they are right, I checked the emergency brake and got a ground when engaged and the brake pedal gave me a + when pressed.

Where did you find the information on the polarity for the Ford Probe? I looked on here and the only wire sheet I found listed colors, but not the polarity's

Gonna go work on those relays for changing the door lock polarity now, who knows maybe because it's not sensing those it's preventing the reservation mode.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 20, 2018 at 5:30 PM
Here is a link to Bulldog Security for their wiring information :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

The Brake, Parking Brake and Door Trigger wires seem to have the correct polarity
for the CM3000 unit. The alarm portion works OK so the Door Trigger wire is correct.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 21, 2018 at 6:22 PM
Success, the door locks now work.

Thank you for advising me about the polarity issue with the door locks.

Now, onto the reservation/remote start.

It was getting too dark so I wasn't able to do much by the time I finished wiring up the door locks, but I was trying to get it into reservation mode and noticed it I pulled up and released the emergency brake quickly (less than a second) the cm3000 would click (2 clicks). It's been a while since I had this setup but I want to say it would normally click once when it entered reservation mode, and then if I pressed the brake or released the emergency brake it would click a second time taking it out of reservation mode.

So, I'm guessing it gets a signal but there is some kind of issue with the quality of the signal it gets. Since the emergency brake is just a ground, I'm tempted to say perhaps the brake pedal signal is not strong enough and maybe if I hook up a relay that supplies a solid 12v signal when released, it may work.

Thoughts on that?

Also, in case that is not it. Would it be a good idea (only for testing purposes while tracking down the issue) to bypass the two (one at a time) to verify which one is causing the problem. For example, if I just grounded the wire from the cm3000 for the emergency brake and see if then it goes into reservation mode when the brake is released. Or connect the brake signal wire from the cm3000 to constant 12v to see if then it goes into reservation mode when the emergency brake is engaged.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 22, 2018 at 12:16 PM
Sure, as a test you could disconnect the CM3000 Parking Brake wire and run it through a switch to chassis ground.
Throw the switch to simulate engaging the Parking Brake and see if you can enter Reservation Mode. Same scenario
for the Brake input but this wire would go to +12V through the switch. Then just emulate the Reservation Mode entry
procedure to see what happens.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 22, 2018 at 6:13 PM
Okay, so the emergency brake connection is fine.

The issue is with the brake wire, but it's strange.

I've got to do some more testing to figure out exactly what works and doesn't work with the brake wire connected/disconnected.

I can live without having to have the foot brake wire connected, because if the reservation/turbo timer functions with only the emergency brake that's fine, since that would only be engaged when I'm parked and getting out of the car.

But I can't recall if I was able to remote start with the brake wire dis-connected or if I had to connect it for the remote start to work.

I'll report back once I test more and find out for sure.

Ever hear of this?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: February 22, 2018 at 6:29 PM
Might have. You could try doing "relay isolation" on the vehicles Brake wire. Just add a relay
wired as below :
Relay Pin 85 to Chassis Ground
Relay Pin 86 to Probe Brake wire
Relay Pin 87 to +12V constant
Relay Pin 30 to CM3000 Brake Input
Relay Pin 87a - not used, insulate

The added relay might give you the clean +12V Brake input signal the CM3000 needs. And, yes,
the Brake signal is needed. It shuts down the remote starter.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: February 23, 2018 at 6:20 PM
You sir.......are a genius.

Works perfect.

Can't thank you enough for your help, patience and knowledge.




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: March 08, 2018 at 5:57 PM
Okay, I've got one issue with the alarm and I'm not sure if its an option I need to just turn off (via the remote) or if I need to hook up another wire for some reason.

When I start the car (with the key) and close the last door, the alarm instantly arms (doors lock, led flashes, parking lights flash, then the parking lights stay on until I press the brake pedal). But it seems that the shock sensor is off, because the vibration of the car running doesn't affect it and also driving over bumps in the road doesn't set it off. And the shock sensor is set sensitive right now, because when parked and armed, if a good size truck drives by it will set off the alarm, that's why I feel the shock sensor is off during this time/situation.

While its in this state, if I open the door, the alarm goes off. If I disarm it, it will stay disarmed, unless I open the door and close the door, then it will see the door close and rearm the same way.

But the turbo timer (aka reservation mode) works fine, and remote start works fine too. So the alarm knows when the car is on or off, so I was thinking maybe its a specific function/option. That's why I don't think its a wire that was left unconnected, but I've been wrong once or twice before in life too.

I thought it might be related to the Ignition Controlled Door Locks, but I turned off that feature and it still happens, so it's not that apparently.

Any ideas?




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 08, 2018 at 7:07 PM
Sounds like you might be going into reservation mode. Is the E-Brake on? What happens
if you start the car with the door closed? Check the E-Brake input to the CM3000.

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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: March 08, 2018 at 9:58 PM
I'll check those things and get back to you.

I'm going out of town tomorrow, but if I have a few minutes I'll do a little testing before I go, otherwise I'll do it when I get back on Sunday/Monday




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: March 09, 2018 at 7:54 AM
You know what, I think you're right. I think it may just be going into reservation mode too.

I was thinking about this all night and with the last car I always sat down, shut the door, and started the car. But with this one, (not sure why) I start the car before shutting the door, so that is most likely it.

I'll run a few tests anyways, to be sure, but I'm starting to think that's it.




Posted By: ggrant3
Date Posted: March 14, 2018 at 5:19 PM
Okay, that was it.

Just a Newb error on my part, have to get used to using this alarm again, it's been years since I had it on a car of mine and just forgot about that being able to happen.

Thanks again.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 14, 2018 at 6:22 PM
Sure, enjoy the convenience system.

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Soldering is fun!





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