Lock Problem in 2004 Grand Cherokee

I just got a new compustar remote start that also has keyless entry. The module supplies a single negative lock and single negative unlock pulse wire. It seems like my car has type c door locks but when I power probe the wires it looks like they are running on a 5v reference instead of 12v. How do I wire into these locks so I can have keyless entry??

2004 Grand Cherokee

It's also worth mentioning that I have the remote start part working 100% and said FU to a bypass module and just taped an extra key by the key cylinder. It works fine for my purposes. It's a compustar 2 way remote start with the lcd screen and it's also got an alarm with a shock sensor, siren, etc (also hooked up). All I wanna do now is hook up the parking lights (headlights are already hooked up). I read that the parking lights need a ground pulse through a 1300ohm resisor to activate? I don't want to get into the trouble of getting the 455JW because quite frankly it's not very well documented and I'm impatient waiting for shipping

Not using a data module to control the door locks in that vehicle is a labor intensive and time consuming task.
Basically you will need 4 relays and have to go into both front doors to complete the install. If you want to
go that way, here is a link to some helpful information from Bulldog Security :
    https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/3430_GRAND-CHEROKEE_JEEP%20GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20LOCKS.pdf
They show it with their prewired "778 relays" but you can duplicate it with regular 30/40 Amp SPDT relays.


As for the Parking Lights, yes 1,300 ohm resistor. Here is a link to Bulldogs info :
   https://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/DOWNLOADS/14301_GRAND-CHEROKEE_GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf
They use a relay controlled by the (+) Parking Light output from the R/S system.

Here is a link to a Pictorial on your Jeep that shows the Parking Light MUX wire.
    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=137527


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Soldering is fun!

If I only put 1 relay in each front door, won't it only control the 2 front doors?

Also, I already have all the relaus. Once I get the door panel off, there are the 2 wires running from inside the boot up to the switch and those are the only wires I see. Where do I splice them?

You can actually get to the 3 connections of either of the door lock switches. You can then use only 2 relays in only one door. This will unlock and lock all 5 doors. It has been a while since we have done 1. If you remove the housing from the door and take some pictures I can guide you. This duplicates the switch being pressed.

Relays as such. 30 of both relays to the common connection of the switch. 87 of 1 to the lock of switch. 87 of the other relay to unlock.   

This does require soldering onto a circuit board. And following traces from switch to the next down line connection to solder to.

If I can avoid soldering, I want to do that at all costs. Even if it's following the instructions by kreg. After I destroyed my gauge cluster on my other vehicle while trying to changed light color, I'll never get a soldering iron close to a vehicle again lmao.

So basically I need 4 relays, 2 for each front door...

Here..4 relays 2 for each door (even though it only says 2, but shows 4).

Will this work if my RS/KLE module outputs a negative pulse for door locks? Is that what this diagram is for?

Yes, the RKE (-) lock outputs are correct. They connect at the top right and left sides of the diagram,
"To lock output of main module, Type B".

The Bulldog Security 778 relay pack is actually two relays wired together as shown.

A few things to point out. Remember you must pass several wires into the front doors. The door opening
and closing will eventually damage the wires unless they are well run and protected. All of the wiring
and the relays inside to doors are more exposed to weather than your wiring inside the vehicle. Try to
protect and water-proof all of your work inside the doors.

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Soldering is fun!

Where do I splice the wires at? Before or after the switch

And also...if I just do this in the front 2 doors, will it also be able to lock and unlock the back 2 doors and the hatch?

Also why do I get 5v whenever I power probe the lock and unlock pulses from the switch??

I've never done it this way. Most of the G.C.'s I do have the Grey key with the chip. My
customers usually don't want to give up a key or have a working key "hidden" in the vehicle
so I use a full featured bypass module. They might cost me $10 more but that's less than the
cost of two DEI 451M modules ( or 4 relays with fuses ), they handle the locks and alarm,
save me time, prevent any damage to the old, cold and brittle plastic door trim and fasteners,
and prevent any water related issues with the added components inside the door down the road.

I believe the relays inside the passenger door handles the rear doors and the trunk while
the drivers door is separate from the rest.

Splice in the wires going to the lock motor/solenoid. The colors are shown in the Bulldog diagram.

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Soldering is fun!

But if I'm only seeing 5v when probing the wires from the driver's side switch I don't want to supply 12v and destroy my car...

Yes mine has the transponder key and like I said I just taped it under the steering column out of sight.

Think I would find the actual lock solenoid in the respective door. There should only be two wires
going to the solenoid. If the wire colors matched up to the diagram, I would go ahead with the
relay wiring into those wires.

Here is a link to the Directed TechTip on door lock type, testing and wiring :
   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=708
The Jeeps locks are considered Type C ( reversal rest at ground ). This guide gives testing
methods to identify the correct wires.

Here is the G.C. lock wiring info from Omega :
   https://www.wiresheet.com/v3/diagrams200/229%20-%20Jeep%20Grand%20Cherokee%20Door%20Locks.pdf
It confirms my earlier thoughts that the passenger door solenoid would also handle the rear doors.
Their DLS units are similar to the Directed 451M's and the Bulldog 778 units.

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Soldering is fun!

So I gotta tap into the soiinouds now instead...

Instead? That is the process shown on both wiring diagrams. You find the wires
going from the door lock switch module to the lock solenoid and make your connections.

The wires in the Yellow rectangle indicated below :




Lock Motor = Lock Solenoid

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Soldering is fun!

That last diagram just confused me further since it doesn't label which pins to use on relays...

I get that but probing the switch shows that it's supplying 5v DC so it's running on a 5v reference. If I jump it with 12v it's gonna fry my bcm or locks.

squallz wrote:

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That last diagram just confused me further since it doesn't label which pins to use on relays...

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I posted this before seeing the last reply so disregard THIS post

This has my harness
The 2 wires to the right on the top (pink/black and orange/black) are lock and unlock. One tests positive 5 volts when locked and the other tests positive 5 volts when unlocked.



This is the whole panel. So what you're saying is that the wires from that harness, go down the side of the door and split at the tape then run back to the left side to the actuator. And I need to cut it between those points and wire in the relays.

Those 2 wires do indeed go to the actuator..but a few others do too?

Edit: after re-checking, the power probe does show like a quick 8.3v flash (probably too quick to show up properly) but I have 2 power probes. If I power one with 12v then ground the other at the same time, it should do SOMETHING...

Here is a test to try on those wires.
Cut the Orange/Violet wire in a convient place. Connect the Power Probe on the side
going the door control switch. Press the switch to the Lock position. The probe should
show +12V. If that is correct, connect the Probe to the same cut wire on the lock motor
solenoid side and insert a +12V pulse. The door will lock. You can do the same process
on the other Pink/Black wire, using the Unlock switch position. If you want to see an
Unlock with the Power Probe, you must reconnect the Orange/Violet wire to supply the
return ground path before inserting the +12V pulse.

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Soldering is fun!

Holy mother of all Christ. That actually worked. I just tested the lock wire and powered it with 12v and the driver's door locked.

Edit: for some weird reason, my lock wire is actually orange and black not orange and violet

You learn something new, everyday. ;)
Pretty soon you'll be a 12V Professional and all your relatives will want Remote Starters installed in their cars.


Yup I noticed that, too. Sometimes the colors change with age and sometimes the manufacturers make changes and
sometimes the wiring guides are just wrong. That is why we always test first.

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Soldering is fun!

So now I do unlock for the driver's door, then lock and unlock for passengers side except the passengers side will lock/unlock all other doors (except drivers door) without having to do anything special (other than relays)? Would it really hurt if I put the relays up under the dash and used some heat shrink butt connectors? That way it'll help against the weather, plus I'll be able to get the door panel on easier than having big blocky relays in there

Yep, the Passenger side wires are parallel and will control the rear doors, too.
Keeping the relays inside the Jeep would help prevent water and vibrations issues. It would allow for
better power & RKE control connections and fusing. You would have to run 4 wires through the door boot
and into the door for the solenoid wire connections. I would strongly recommend a soldered connection
with heat shrink tube to seal & insulate.

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Soldering is fun!

Yeah, running those wires isn't really too scary to me. Thanks for all the help you are extremely appreciated sir. How do I rate you?

Edit: soldering isn't too mandatory on my charts since it would be a pain in the ass to run an extension cord all the way outside to solder a few wires lol

Cool, then you're all set. I've seen a lot of older Jeeps with pinched / worn flakey wires in the door boots.
Hopefully the wire is the correct gauge with many thin strands and has insulation than is still flexible when cold.

The 12 Volt Forum doesn't have a rating system but thumbs-up and a smiley face when the job is done works well. 8D

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Soldering is fun!

I'm using 14gauge wire so I should be all good

Thanks again 👍💓

Figured I would give an update, ~SIX hours later (yeahhh..it took that long).

I successfully now have full keyless entry controls with my RS/KSE kit and couldn't be happier