Trouble With CM900S, 2009 Subaru Outback, Video Included

Hello! First just want to say how grateful I am for this forum. There's a ton of helpful information here.

I finished wiring up a compustar CM900S to my outback. I'm using a generic spare key immobilizer bypass and I'm fairly certain that I have it wired up correctly. I was able to pair the remotes just fine. Lock, unlock, arm, disarm, and parking lights work just fine. The problem is with remote start. When I try to remote start, the car turns on for just a second (doesn't turn over) and then shuts off. I'm not getting any diagnostic codes through the parking lights. It just turns on and immediately shuts off. Here is a link to the video:

https://youtu.be/-MaEBoap_fY?si=4MtErFeN5KMldOAd

I've checked and double checked all the wiring and I think everything is hooked up correctly. Any thoughts on what could be going on?

key start? slide a key into the ignition and try again, if it works, bypass issue. You powered power red 12v wires? hooked up both ignition wires? but also check your Blue/white wire, it shouldn't have 12V.

Any thoughts, anyone? I'm really stumped here..

Seems to shutdown really quickly. Faster than a failed R/S normally does and they usually try three times.

Any reason you didn't respond to SilverCivics' post? His thoughts are valid. "Key in Coffin" bypass not working, R/S system seeing +12V input on Brake Input wire or bad power input. Of course, most common problems should give Shutdown Diagnostic Code flashes (like Tach not programmed, Brake, Hood, etc.) I would add improper Chassis Ground connection.

Perhaps you could post your exact wire connections. Below is the CM900-s wiring :

CM900-s

CN1
Pin 1 Red - Constant 12V
Pin 2 Green/White - Programmable Output
Pin 3 Red/White - Constant 12V
Pin 4 White - Accessory 12V positive (+)
Pin 5 Blue - Programmable Output
Pin 6 Yellow - Starter 12V positive (+)
Pin 7 Green - Ignition 12V positive (+)
Pin 8 Black - Ground negative (-) input

CN3
Pin 1 Green/White - (fixed) Parking light (-) output
Pin 2 Blue/Lt. Green - [POC 2] Lock 250mA, 800mS (-) output
Pin 3 Blue - [POC 3] Unlock 250mA, 800mS (-) negative output
Pin 4 Black - [POC 4] (GWR) 250mA latched (-) output
Pin 5 Orange - [POC 5] Factory Alarm Arm (FAA) (-) output
Pin 6 Orange/White - [POC 6] Factory Alarm Disarm, 800mS (-) output
Pin 7 White - [POC 7] Horn:250mA negative (-) output
Pin 8 Gray/Black - Hood Pin negative (-) input
Pin 9 Light Blue/White - Brake 12V positive (+) input
Pin 10 RED/White - Trigger start (-) input
Pin 11 RED - Positive (+) input
Pin 12 Yellow/Black - Engine sensing input (A/C)


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Soldering is fun!

Ah my bad, just didn't notice silvercivicsir's response!

Turns out it was the brake pedal signal, as silvercivicsir suggested. Was sending 12v at all times. Found the right wire and things (sort of) work.

Well, they work as long as my spare key is right next to my ignition cylinder. Seems by immobilizer bypass module isn't functioning correctly.

My multimeter shows that the signal going from the CM900S to the bypass module is grounded during start (as expected), but the system won't start unless a key is right next to the ignition. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I've rotated the spare key fob all different ways within the bypass module. I've fussed around with the position of the signal transducer around the ignition cylinder. Still nothing.

Question: there are two wires running from the bypass module up to the bypass module coil that wraps around the ignition cylinder. Should those wires carry a discernible charge? Because I'm not seeing anything on my multimeter on those wires during ignition.

Hmm, now that I think about it, maybe I actually don't want a ground signal going to the bypass module during ignition. Here's what to CM900S manual says regarding the wire I have going to the bypass module:

"This is an optional output that will provide a latched negative (-) output 250mS before the ignition turns on, stays on throughout
the remote start duration and will be the last to shut off. This wire is most commonly used to trigger bypass/transponder modules."

And that lines up with what my multimeter is saying. But I don't see why a ground signal would be helpful here. Seems bypass module likely needs positive charge to work. Hopefully this is the problem. Tomorrow I'll go out to see if positive charge to the bypass module fixes things.

Yep, "key in the box" bypass modules can have issues. Key placement within the box and antenna placement on the ignition cylinder are critical. You might have to spend some time playing around to get it right.

If it's a DEI 556U, there is a jumper for 18 or 60 winding output. You could switch the jumper to the other position. You really can't "see" the chip signal on the wire. The 556U does want a (-) signal like GWR to turn it on.

If you have a spare relay, you can omit the bypass module and wire it this way.
Relay Pin 86 to +12V constant
Relay Pin 85 to CM900-s Black GWR output
Relay pin 87 to 22 gauge wire - key side
Relay Pin 30 to 22 gauge wire ignition cylinder side
The 22 gauge wire goes from Pin 87 to spare key. Spare key gets 5 to 10 loops of wire around transponder chip area of keyhead then continues to the ignition cylinder antenna area with 3 to 4 loops around that and then back to Pin 30. I use a hot glue gun to secure the 22 gauge wire on the key and ignition cylinder.

If you live in a very cold area, winter temps can degrade the signal and cause R/S issues randomly. In my area I prefer to use Data style bypass modules whenever possible.

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Soldering is fun!

Well, after much fussing, no dice. Not sure if my bypass module is bad or what, but I'm over it. You'll probably cringe when I say this, but I'm just going to extract the chip from my key, tape it to the cylinder, and call it a day. Not the smartest decision ever, but a calculated risk I'm willing to take.

My final question involves the tachometer sensing. The CM900S has a "tachless" mode that seems to be working just fine right now. That being said, I live in cold climate, and the manual suggests that the tachless mode isn't reliable in cold climates. Any thoughts on whether this is something I actually need to be concerned about? I'd rather not have to deal with hunting down a tach signal (actually I already have tried, and it's not going well). If it's a must for 0 to 30F starting, I can put in the work. Just not sure if I need to or not?

Using a Data style bypass module on that car requires an ADS AL-CA, a lot of wiring and the KLON Process from iDatalink. Too bad you can't get the "key in the box" module working. I've done the "key wrap" w/relay a few times and it does work.

Going to a F.I. for the Tach signal isn't too bad but you must run the wire thru the firewall. If the Tachless is working see how it does when it gets cold. There is a "back off algorithm" that will add crank time and try again twice to get the engine started on really cold days. If you don't mind the extra start attempts, it should work. A strong battery is a must.

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Soldering is fun!