Correct aftermarket power door lock diagram?

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a pair of actuators so that i can add power door locks to my truck.  I came across this diagram, and wanted to know if it is the diagram that I should work off of if i want the following setup:

A "lock/unlock" switch on the drivers side that will lock and unlock both doors.

Here is a link to the diagram:  https://www.hometronicz.com/ebay/dlm/aftermarketdl.swf

Is the "GREEN/ RED / Blue" switch the "lock/unlock" switch that i am thinking about?  Also, where do people normally install the relays? inside the drivers door or some other place? Thanks in advance for all of your help!

randy

Thanks for the clarification bberman1. 

Does anyone know where would be a good place to purchase the lock/unlock switch? Also, where do people usually install the relays in their cars?

Thanks,

randy

I tried both the diagram available on this site,  https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp as well as the diagram that I linked to in my original post-- neither worked.

What happens is this: I hook everything up, then when I come to put the fuse into the inline fuse holder, it sparks and the leads on the fuse start to melt! It doesnt burn the fuse out though..very weird.

I am using 12 volt 30amp relays and the fuse is a 30amp fuse also.  Any ideas why it may be doing this?  I am very confident that both times the wiring was clean and there were no bad connections.  I appreciate any feedback or suggestions!

thanks, randy

Double check your connections to the relays. This sounds like a grounding issue with the relays. Post the exact wires that you hooked up to each relay on your response ans we'll see if we can help you out. What kind of car do you have and year ?

Hi Jeff and everyone else,

Here is exactly how i have it hooked up and what i am doing:

I have a 2002 ford F150. I hook up pin30 on the first relay to one terminal of the actuator.  I hook up pine30 on the second relay to the other terminal of the actuator. I connect pin 87A on the first to pin 87A on the second and connect that to the negative terminal on my car battery.  I hook up both pin 86's together and have a wire lead exposed.  I hook up a wire with an exposed lead to each of the pin85s on the relays.  I do not yet having a rocking switch, so i was planning on simulating that by simply touching the wires together (pin 85 on either relay to the pin 86s on both relays) to simulate a switch.   I connect both pin 87s together, put them in line w/ a fuseholder (without a fuse in it) and hook that up to the positive terminal on my car battery. When i try to put a 30amp mini fuse into the fuseholder, i get sparks.  If i ignore the sparks and just push it in, it actually does burn out the fuse.  Again, any suggestions or comments are appreciated!

thanks, randy

I hook up both pin 86's together and have a wire lead exposed. 

• You are only suppose to hook up one pin 86 to the (-) alarm lock output and the other pin 86 on the other relay to 12 volt constant.
• Look at the diagram here https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp and make sure that pin 85 and 86 are not the same on both relays. They are different for each relay.

Hi Jeff,

The diagram i was using was this https://www.hometronicz.com/ebay/dlm/aftermarketdl.swf  I was told this would work as well, though when i tried the one you suggested, i had the same results....

For the record, i dont have an alarm...im just trying to add power door locks to my truck.  I dont know if that makes any difference?  Where that diagram suggested hooking up to the alarm, i used a switch instead.

any suggestions anyone?

thanks,randy