This is a great resource - glad I found you guys as I sure need help with electrical stuff. Here's my first post:
I have an Autoloc RKE system with Autoloc door actuators. I would like to add a rocker switch the center console for locking/unlocking the doors, instead of having to use the door plungers which require me to nearly do a 180 twist in the driver's seat.
My question is, do I have to add any diodes to the leads coming off the switch to prevent "grounding of the keyless entry brain" (as told to me by the tech support guy - wasn't very helpful). If so, how do I do it, which wires need it, and where do the diodes get attached?
I've attached the following diagram to help you help me out. Thanks!:D
Oops, here's the diagram.
Hey, I was in the same boat. I added an alarm and keyless entry to my car, including 2 relays and 2 actuators. (I'm not sure if you needed the relays in yours).
Here's a post that's similar. My diagram for how I hooked up a non-locking rocker switch is in there. Check it out.
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cpgoose,
Thanks for the informative reply!
It *seems* that I won't need the relays b/c the Autoloc central locking control unit should be taking care of that.
The Autoloc RKE system has an output for a starter kill (using a relay) and activates/deactivates it when you use the remote to lock/unlock the doors. If I just wired a rocker switch to the control unit's lock/unlock wires, will that trigger the starter kill when I lock the doors using the rocker switch? I don't want it to and that's why the tech guy mentioned about the diodes (which I still don't know much about)...
According to the schematic you have, you WILL have to add 2 relays in order to control the actuator(r1 & r2)
r1:
85--blu\wht from RKE, output from rocker switch
86--12v const
87--12v const
87a-ground
30--motor wire of acctuator
r2:
85--grn\wht fron RKE, output from opp side of rock switch
86--12v const
87--12v const
87a-ground
30--motor wire of acctuator
Once you install this if the lock\unlock functions are backwards then just swith the 30 terminals of the relays.
Autuloc website won't load for me so I'll ask here. This appears to be a simple keyless entry unit.
The lock/unlock wires (blue/white & GREEN / WHITE) are currently not connected to anything, is that a correct statement? I don't know why they would have an input for this but it appears they do.
If that is in fact an INPUT and NOTHING is connected to it normally then installing a diode make no sense.
Test the wires by grounding your test light and hitting one of the wires. If it locks/unlocks the doors then their inputs. connect there, no diodes.
As for the starter kill you'll just have to test to find out. If u connect this to a starter kill relay then it doesn't matter as long as you wait till AFTER the car is started to lock the doors.
Guys,
I just spoke to the Tech people again and they said I need to wire in a 2-amp diode (stripe facing RKE brain) for each of the wires leading from the switch. The reason is that this prevents the ground signal from bouncing back to the brain and frying it - you may know that already, but I didn't
c2ddez,
I'm pretty sure relays won't be need with the kit (Autoloc CK2000). I'm sorry if the wiring diagram isn't as clear as it should be.
Now another question:
Can any wire be split (such as +12v wire of ignition coil) and then wired into 30 and 87a or 87 of a relay that is triggered by the RKE brain? I think killing the ignition coil is a better theft deterrant than the starter for a manual tranny car. Here's what I'm referring to (the KL600 grey wire comes from the RKE brain):
Anyone have an answer for my last question? Thanks
