Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Viper 560XV w/ 555I, 2002 Civic

I'm preparing to install Viper 560XV w/ 555I on my 2002 Civic and been going over wirings on paper. with install guide from www.directed.com, Civic service manual, and info collected from this board (GREAT place!). Looking through wiring info posted throughout the message board, I'm puzzeld with the following:

I can't find the above wires. Is lock motor (yel/blk) above same as yel/blk wire in the ignition switch harness? And if the above wires are needed, where in 560XV do they tie into?

Thanks in advance,

nonbiri

You shouldn't need these wires. They are only used when you are installing a factory keyless integration alarm.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Anyone know how to wire Viper 560XV to 2002 Civic EX so a progressive unlock would work? Wiring to wht/grn (gray plug above driver's kick) unlocks all doors on the first remote unlock/disarm button push so that's not what I want. In 560XV installation guide available at www.directed.com, there's no explanation of 2nd unlock (pin H2/6) but a post on newsgroup tells me that output is for progressive unlock. I still can't figure how to use it. Any ideas?

nonbiri

bang bang,

I assume the main unlock (wht/grn) should be tied directly to the unlock motor (ylw/grn). On the side note, why is it that info available doesn't state what kind of signal triggers the unlock motor? Is it a positive or negative signal? Should I be considering using the lock motor (ylw/blk), or is that taken care of when lock/arm button on remote is pressed?

Also, I can't find the tachometer test connector on Civic where tach sense (violet/wht) from 560XV is suppose to be connected. It suppose to be at 2 pin plug passenger side of the battery, so I looked around the main battery under the hood but it's no where to be seen. Can you describe where it is?

Thanks,

nonbiri

You need to set up a relay on the unlock motor wire (YELLOW /GREEN), and not just tap onto it. Wire it as follows:
86 and 87 - constant +12v
85 - blue unlock from alarm
The yel/grn wire gets cut
87a - switch side of yel/grn
30 - motor side of yel/grn

To test for switch side, cut the YELLOW /GREEN wire. Ground the black probe of your meter, and put your red probe to one of the cut wires. Hit the unlock switch on the door. If your meter jumps to about 12v when you hit unlock, you have the switch side. By the way, the drivers door shouldn't unlock when the YELLOW /GREEN wire is cut.

The tach wire has a plug on the end covered in a black rubber boot. The wire is blue. I could email you a pic of its location if you give me your email address

Looking at Civic service manual's electrical wiring block diagram, I can see exactly how the new relay's used. Thanks JWorm! I wanted a visual on the yel/grn unlock motor wire, supposidly on back side and in top left plug of under dash fuse box, so I tried looking by sticking my head in with a small hand mirror and a flash light. Too crampt and had a bundle of wire crossing over from the adjacent plug. Just couldn't see it with the mirror. ThenI tried sliding down the entire fuse box but something was snagged behind the box and prevented it from sliding all the way down. Then I got thinking. Wouldn't it be easier if motor unlock wire was cut just out the driver door instead of at the fuse box? It should be there. Why is the location for lock and unlock motors on wiring table found on this site list only the fuse box? What's the reason?

Viper install guide fails to explain about the 2nd unlock (blue (-)) output on 560XV. Any info as to within what time period does the remote control's unlock/disarm button has to be pressed twice for the 2nd unlock to activate?

JWorm please email the tach connector picture to nonbiri3@hotmail.com Another thanks!

I've been going over connections on paper for a few days and it's great having a site like this so questions can be answered quickly. To show my token of appreciation, I made some donation to this site.

Thanks guys,

nonbiri

I'm planning to install Viper 560VX using channel 2 output (H1/12) wired to open the trunk through a relay. The trunk open sense will be monitored with trunk trigger input (H1/6). My question is, when I press the remote to open the trunk, will 560VX know not to trigger the car alarm? If it will, what's the fix?

Thanks in advance,

nonbiri

oops, 560VX = 560XV

If i remember right, Channel 2 will not operate until you disarm first. Either that or it will disarm on channel 2 so, no it won't set of the alarm.

Can anyone conferm this, or am i just dumb and don't know what i am talking about?

If so...please disregard.

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Channel 2 will activate whether or not the alarm is armed, it will also set the alarm off if the trunk pin is wired. Channel three will do a sensor shunt.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

yup.. but you can program this on the DEI

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Thanks guys, but I feel like I'm playing the 12volt.com version of the "To Tell the Truth"!

auex: Which output is channel 3? Also, what's a sensor shunt and how do you use it?

In Viper 560XV installation guide I noticed feature number 2-9, "factory disarm with channel two on". Josh is right! It's to set (-) factory alarm disarm output (H2/1) when channel two output is set (-). Looks like I'll have to throw in another relay. Two relays just to pop open a trunk! One relay for the actuator, and the second one to open the trunk sense line (H1/6) to prevent it from being set (-) when trunk is opened. Can anyone think of a bettery way?

I've been slowly getting my questions answered thru this OUTSTANDING board. Thank you 12volt.com!

nonbiri

In Viper 560XV installation guide, on page 24, it states to connect the 560XV's orange accessory wire to accessory wire in the vehicle which power the climate control. But on 2002 Civic, heater blower is not connected to ACC but to IG2. And anyone know how 560XV's 2nd ignition/accessory is outputted? I know I can choose either ignition or accessory, but does the 2nd output exactly mirror its respective primary side? Or could it be programmed so it outputs 12V only on RUN (ON), to match Civic's IG2. How do I correctly wire IG2? Help me please.

nonbiri

auex,

ACCESSORY (blk/red) = IG2

SECOND ACCESSORY (wht/red) = ACC

The IG1 and ACC lables are used in the Honda manual. I guess I will have to program 560XV's 2nd ignition/accessory output (pink/wht) for accessory and connect that to Honda's ACC (wht/red). And connect the IG2 (blk/red) to 560XV's accessory output (orange).

Thanks for the feedback.

nonbiri

Can anyone suggest how best 2002 Civic's rear window defogger can be turned on using pin H3/1, 200mA defogger (or 2nd status) output, from Viper 560XV? Any experience?

nonbiri

I used a momentary output from my alarm to trigger a relay, and the relay connected 2 terminals at my rear defogger switch to turn it on.

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Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com

cpgoose,

Assuming you're also refering to Civic and the two terminals you mention are BLU and BRN/WHT (12V) wires, did you have a resistor and diode between the switching contacts? Looking into Honda manual, the BRN/WHT wire is the 12V source that is fed in to the Push Switch Assembly with a diode in line. When the rear defogger switch is pressed, the 12V is fed through a resistor then to the BLU wire. So I wonder if you used the two components to duplicate the circuit, or did you put in the relay to switch BRN/WHT straight to BLU?

Thanks,

nonbiri

I want to replace Viper 560XV's blue LED. Where can I buy a red colored LED? The blue one that came with Viper is too bright, I'd prefer a dimmer red version if available, and if you know how are the LEDs specified, -- ie voltage, wattage, demention, etc?

Thanks,

nonbiri

try radio shack, if theres a Fry's (outpost.com) store in ur area, they have a complete variety of LED. but i think the blue LED is pretty koo lookin

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

Okay, I'll try Radio Shack in my neighborhood. Thanks for responding. I want red to make the car look like it has Honda's security option installed. They use the red LED, I think.

I just began installing my Viper 560XV yesterday, and got most of keyless portion completed. I can open trunk with remote (thanks to AlarmTech's info, installed Accord trunk latch) on my Civic, and doors work fine. I'll be too busy to do any install for the next week but I hope to fihish the rest, alarm & remote start, by end of the month.

Thanks for all the help everyone!

nonbiri

hey nonbiri, what happened to your post? I got a notification about your rear defogger, and then found it in this post instead? confusing :-)

Anyway, no....I did it on an older Integra, not a Civic. I didn't use a resistor or a diode. I just used the relay to give continuity between two wires (I forget which two). So when I hit the button on the remote, it activates the relay, and activates the switch.

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Q: What's the best nation in the world?
A: Donation! Donate to the12volt.com

profuse007, I went to Radio Shack today looking for the LED. They had red LEDs but I didn't know which voltage version to buy. They had 2.7V, 3V, 5V, and 12V. Anyone know what the voltage rating is for LED on the Viper alarms? I looked at my Viper LED but there's no data printed anywhere.

cpgoose, Looks like all my posts were consolidated in this topic. Whoever it is, thanks. And for the rear defogger, I'll ohm out the defogger switch contacts in the heater control assembly when I pull out panel sometime next week, during christmas vacation, and figure out whether I need to include a diode and resistor, along with a relay. Thanks again for the information.

nonbiri

I began to install my Viper 560XV (brain) a couple of weeks ago and back then I wired for the keyless entry and trunk pop and they are working fine. Resumed my install on Christmas for the remaining features, alarm and remote start, and I'm having problems. I wired door (- pin H1/5), trunk (- pin H1/6), hood (- pin H3/2), tach (12Vac pin H3/4), and brake (+ pin H3/3) senses and all verified and is reaching the brain. When I trigger to test the door sense I haven't been able to stop LED from blinking by starting the ignition as stated in the install manual. FYI, all remote start related are not yet wired. I have two questions:

1. How can I reset the blinking LED other than by keeping the +12V disconnected forever? The install manual says it should quit blinking when turing on the ignition, but it aint. Breifly disconnecting the 12V from the brain and/or disconnecting the door sense signal from the brain don't help. The only way so far has been to disconnect the 12V supply for a long time. I noticed it wasn't blinkin when I plugged back in the 12V after about 20 minutes or so, when I returned from my coffee break. But that fix would not be practical.

2. What input on does the 560XV use to sense the ignition ON setting on a car?

3. What's the tach signal voltage range? The install manual says it should be between 1-6Vac. I found a 12Vac signal, actually a pulsing +12V coming into pin A13 on gage assembly (2002 Honda Civic), so I picked that off for the brain (pin H3/4). I confirmed the pulsing +12V by measuring with a diode inbetween the pin A13 and DVM. With diode cathode towards the DVM probe and diode anode towards the pin A13 on the gage, and it measures about 12Vac. I also measured DC voltage at this point, without the diode, about 7VDC, what ever that means. The brain has a tach threshold HI/LO jumper and it is set on HI, and I haven't touched it. I'm afraid if I try the jumper setting on LO, a 12Vac input could damage the brain.

4. When doing rest of the install, are there any information not on the install manual I should know about?

Again, thanks in advance guys,

nonbiri

1. The alarm gets it's ignition pulse through the relay pack for the remote start, if this is not hooked up then it will never know if the car was turned on or not.

2. See #1

3. The tach wire should be blue, it is behind the gauges or in a connector near the battery ( I have never found the connector and I own a civic). If you can't find the tach you could set the alarm to voltage sensing for the time being to get the rest of the alarm working.

4. Do you have an immobilizer?

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

1. & 2. roger.

3. The wire I found behind the gauge is blue, and according to the Civic manual it is the tach signal.

4. Yes I have 555I.

Again, thanks for the info. I have spent over three full days on the car on and off and my wife's all upset because our only mode of transportation's have been down for the last two days, so I had to give it up today. Just took my car in to a professional installer. They're charging me an arm and leg, but it's got to be done. It suppose to be readied by end of today. What a difference, several days by me vice several hours by the pros! I sure have learned alot about wiring on my Civic.

Again, thanks auex, and all other experts on this board.

nonbiri

btw...for those whom will tackle a civic any time soon, the tach wire is b/t the intake and the battery, you will see a loop from the tach connector, the connnector is taped to a split-loom wire cover.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

I wired my 2002 Civic as far as keyless features using Viper 560VX and then handed it over to a pro for security and remote wirings, and also gave them the DEI 555I I had purchased earlier. The following day, they're telling me that the 555I cannot be used on my later year 2002 Civic, and instead a 555U has to be used. Any thruth in what I'm told? I'm wondering if they screwed the "I" model.

nonbiri

The DEI site indicates either 555I or 555U can be used for the 2001-02 Honda Civic.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

It should be noted that some installers have had problems with the 555I working with the vehicle in question.

Perhaps this is one of the vehicles they are having a problem with. Simply ask them if this is the case.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

i used 555u on an 03 model, but imma try the 555i on my car pretty soon('02). all i know is that dei says 555u or 555i for 01-03 model, i wouldnt doubt them.

i also remember someone mention 555i long time ago on this forum for the same model and no problem.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

The 555i works fine on most of the 2001 or newer Civics. Sometimes you'll get a vehicle that is real picky and will do strange things. Module won't learn key code. Green key on instrument cluster will flash after key is inserted and brake is applied. Not a very reliable piece.

Oh well, it's a done deal. I gave my extra key and it was buried in the 555U. I asked for the failed 555I but the installer said it's a swap with their 555U and it's going back to DEI for a credit. But so far all features are working fine except when I use Honda's keyless remote control. When I press the Honda remote's unlock button while car's armed, it triggers an alarm. I noticed it after returning home with the car. Assuming 560XV's door sense is connected to a dome light, so when Honda remote unlock the door(s), the 560XV senses the dome light turning on, it triggers an alarm. It's no big deal since chance of using the Honda remote with 560XV alarm is not likely, but would be nice to rid of all kinks in case I decide to sell the car. Can anyone think of a fix so the alarm won't sound in that situation? Also, I haven't tried but anyone know if it would cause any problem if I unplug the Honda keyless module in the car?

When engine's idling after a remote start, parking lights keep blinking and I was told that's the function of 560XV. Can the lights be eliminated with DEI Bitwriter? If so, will the change by Bitwriter cause other default setting to skew?

Boy is it nice to be able to start the car remotely. I love it! Definitely will be part of my future cars. By then, we'll have a two-way remote thru our cell phone to see current status and with unlimited range! That'll be handy.

Again and again, thanks for feedbacks guys!

nonbiri

nonbiri wrote:

I gave my extra key and it was buried in the 555U. I asked for the failed 555I but the installer said it's a swap with their 555U and it's going back to DEI for a credit.

Well, as long as you didnt get charged for the unit that is OK. Only the labor time should have been charged in that situation. I hope that was indeed the case here.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Teken, They charged me a standard installation fee for a full install. I can say I payed too much.

They yanked out many of my wires and installed their own. All of their connections were made with t-taps or crimps which I let them know I was uncomfortable with it, but they said there's a life time guarantee so that took care of that.

My siren, model 514N, quit making any noise when I just changed the tilt angle. Everything else seems to be working ok. I want to do a quick check myself. Can I just apply a 12V straight into the two wires from the siren?

nonbiri

nonbiri wrote:

They yanked out many of my wires and installed their own. All of their connections were made with t-taps or crimps which I let them know I was uncomfortable with it, but they said there's a life time guarantee so that took care of that.

I would understand the installers view of installing new wires to ensure the integrity of the install was done properly. But for them to half aszz it, and to use T-taps just makes the intent a none issue.

It is stories just like yours that makes me shake my head when I see, or hear about T-taps and such.

It's all about the fast food mentality, rush in, rush out . . .

nonbiri wrote:

Can I just apply a 12V straight into the two wires from the siren?

Yes . . .

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Teken, I snipped wires near the siren and applied 12V and it blared off fine, then with a volt meter checked the line signal to the siren and that checked okay also-- with chirp signal condition just a momentary upward meter deflection and a full 12V indication with full alarm trigger condition. I connected back the wires and the siren worked fine. I don't have a clue why there was no sound just before I snipped the wires. Weird!

And for the door sense , when I have time I'll disconnect it from the dome light trigger to the three door sense wires, and of course I'll put in isolation diode on each line. That should eliminate the Honda romote unlock triggering alarm when armed.

Tomorrow, I'm going back to the installer and ask them to either show me where they placed the remote shutdown toggle switch. If it was not installed, I'll ask them to put it in. Or is it a common practice to not installing that switch?

The installer taped off the brain and unused wires pretty good and they told me if I touch it the life time warrenty will be voided. I'm going to ask them to pull out defogger wire and two auxiallary wires and put them in an accessible location.

Happy Holidays,

nonbiri