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2002 Impala Doorlocks

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=22157
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 4:03 AM


Topic: 2002 Impala Doorlocks

Posted By: stratusfear69
Subject: 2002 Impala Doorlocks
Date Posted: November 30, 2003 at 11:20 PM

I've installed a remote start/alarm in my dad's 2002 Chevy Impala.  Everything works great except for the door "lock."  The "unlock" is fine.  I am tapping into the ORANGE / Black (-) trace wire at the BCM per Audiovox and DEI wiring and using the 480ohm resistor.  I am using 2 relays and both are wired..... 85-alarm input, 86-12V, 30-ground.  The "unlock relay" has pin 87 through a diode to the ORG/BLK.  The "lock" relay has pin 87 through a diode AND the 480ohm resistor to the ORG/BLK.  I have tried switching the places of the diode and resistor, but neither way worked.  I am also confident I have the diode connected properly, w/ the band closer to the relay.  Anybody have any experience w/ the Chevy single wire doorlocks???

On a side note, I'm glad I found this site!!!  I just joined today and I'm glad to see how helpful everyone is w/ problem solving.  Keep up the good work and thanks to the12volt.com admin.




Replies:

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 01, 2003 at 10:25 AM
The diodes aren't needed, and may be causing a problem since they create a .7 volt voltage drop. The car's BCM is looking for a certain voltage on the ORANGE / black wire, and the diodes are changing that.

Have you tried tapping ground straight to the org/blk wire? It should unlock the doors and verify you have the right org/blk wire.




Posted By: Shelbydis
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 9:51 AM

Do not use diodes, just like stated before they will affect voltage and keep the locks from working properly.  I am installing a car start in a 2002 Impala today.  I have everything worked out, but the service engine soon light comes on because of the park lights.  Did you have this problem?

Thanks,

Steven





Posted By: Geeque
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 9:54 AM
Service engine light is probably coincendental. Gas cap problem probably.

-------------
Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician




Posted By: Shelbydis
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 10:29 AM

This service engine light soon was stated as a precaution in my wiring diagram from directed electronics.  It refers to a tech note to see how it is to be wired.  I didn't know if anyone else knew what the wiring would be.

Thanks,

Steven





Posted By: Geeque
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 11:17 AM
Did you connect ignition 2?

-------------
Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician




Posted By: stratusfear69
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 12:19 PM

Thanks for all of your input.  The diodes were not needed in this set up since the circuit was being isolated by the relays anyway.  But, as Murphy's Law would have it, I spent a 1/2 hour w/ Audiovox tech help to diagnose my "lock" problem.  It turns out I needed an 884 ohm relay, not a 480 !!!  Luckily the remote starter comes w/ a dozen or so resistors for the GM vats? and he had me go through all of them til we found one to lock the doors.

SHELBYDIS,   Here's what you need to do for the engine light, per Audiovox.  Connect the IGN2 wire from the starter module to the ORANGE Acc. wire of the vehicle.  You must set the IGN2 output to "Off During Crank."  Not sure what brand you're using, but Audiovox is selectable via features programming.  I then used the ACC wire from the starter module to the BROWN Acc. wire of the vehicle.





Posted By: larkster
Date Posted: December 20, 2003 at 12:30 PM
you must cut the negative parklight wire at the bcm and diode isolate it. It is the parklight that is tripping the check engine light. cathode side away from bcm and attach your negative park light output to the anode side.





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