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2000 Oldmobile Alero Remote start intermittant

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=25115
Printed Date: June 11, 2024 at 5:51 AM


Topic: 2000 Oldmobile Alero Remote start intermittant

Posted By: ExactOh
Subject: 2000 Oldmobile Alero Remote start intermittant
Date Posted: January 22, 2004 at 11:48 PM

I am installing a customer provided DesignTech remote start on a 2000 Oldmobile Alero.  I have installed a Passlock II bypass module.  The remote starter is working intermittantly.  When it fails to start, the fuel pump is not engaging as if the Passlock bypass is not working, but the security light is not blinking.  I do not think that this is a temperature related resistance problem, because it will work, and one minute later it will fail.  I did not have a problem obtaining the resistance value and I do have experience working with these systems.

I did notice that the information regarding the Accessory wire color provided here at the12volt.com (great site) differs from the color provided at designtech's site.  Here it's listed as brown, and there it's listed as orange.  I stripped and tested the orange wire and it functioned like an accessory wire should, so I used it, though there was also a brown wire.  I ignored the brown wire since I am accustomed to GM using orange for accessory.

Is there a secondary accessory wire that needs to be powered up?  I tested the function of the Ign 1 and Ign 2 wires, and all seems well.  If there is a problem with the wiring, or a secondary wire that I am not powering, why would it work sometimes?  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.




Replies:

Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 12:08 AM
the brown is a second acc wire i would power it up and see what happens.




Posted By: Basscoholic23
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 12:34 AM

I've had the same problem B-4 In that same car. (Which is a pain in the ass since you have to remove the radio to get to the main remote start wires). Put the Pass lock 2 interface as far as the radio location as possible.

and yes the brown wire is the correct acc wire.





Posted By: ExactOh
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 10:03 AM
Thanks for your suggestions.  I will give these a try today.




Posted By: tblanning
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 10:16 AM

you need to use the orange and not the brown you do not need the brown for that vehicle to run

also what bypass module are you using?





Posted By: ExactOh
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 10:44 AM
I am using Design Tech's 20402 dip switch/potentiometer bypass unit.




Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 12:15 PM
It is posible that the resistance changes with temperature causing the value to be off in this case the car will not start look into that bypass gettiong cold see hwat happens when you warm it up.




Posted By: jrilla
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 1:12 PM
It doesnt sound like the passlock to me either since the light should flash. You may need to tweek it though by adjusting the resistence a little higher maybe.

I had an issue with a 99 Alero just last month but it was becasue I had grabbed an injector for the tach source and the car idled a little too high when it had not been running for a while. I switched the tach wire to a 2 cylinder source and it worked perfectly.

Here is the diagnostic Troubleshooting info from a designtech unit, I dont know if it is the same as yours but it likely is.

23. Trouble Shooting with the Self Diagnostics
The AutoCommand® contains a built in diagnostic routine that will indicate why
the unit started or why the unit turned off the car the last time that the unit was
used.
To activate the diagnostic mode for why it turned off, simply turn the On/Off
control switch to the “OFF” position. In a few seconds, the red LED on the
module will flash 1 to 12 times to identify the problem. See the chart below for
an explanation of the flashes:
1 flash 10/15 minute time out. Unit should be fine.
2 flashes Unit turned off because Brake or Hood was activated.
3 flashes No Tach or Stalled. Review Step 13.
4 flashes Received another remote input from the transmitter
5 flashes Transmission was shifted into gear. Call for tech help.
6 flashes Low battery voltage, or may be missing an ignition wire which powers
up the alternator
7 flashes Alarm Input triggered
8 flashes Over current - One of the 400 mA (-) transistor outputs (Starter kill,
lock, unlock, horn, lights, or trunk) of the control harness is driving
too much current. Make sure to use a relay where necessary.
12 flashesThe Control Switch was turned off.
For reasons why it last started, simply put your foot on the brake while you turn
the switch off. Keep holding the brake down until the flashes start. The codes
are as follows:
1 flash The unit has not started yet since it was last powered up.
2 flashes Received a radio signal from the transmitter to start.
3 flashes N/A
4 flashes Temp reached 0o F in vacation mode.
5 flashes Voltage reached 11 volts in vacation mode.
6 flashes Received a start command from the optional Pager Unit.
7 flashes Started from 24 hour daily start feature.
If you have any questions on the trouble shooting, see Step 10 of the purple
Trouble Shooting Guide.

-------------
J Rilla

Owner/Installer




Posted By: tblanning
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 4:37 PM

2 things i would;

adjust the potentiometer a hair higher with the cold weather the resistance will vary slightly

also cut the green loop on the remote starter unit it may be next to the power wires in unit or inside the box depending on the model you are using it may be sencing an in gear problem so cut the green loop to elimanate

if the vehicle starts up then the unit shuts completely off and does not try to start vehicle again it is with the remote starter and not the bypass cut green loop

if that does not work do as jrilla stated above and check the code it out puts (codes vary depending on unit if not sure list the model of the unit)





Posted By: corraudio
Date Posted: January 23, 2004 at 5:07 PM
this might sound stupid but any chance it might a hood pin problem (assuming you've installed one)?




Posted By: mobiletoys2002
Date Posted: January 24, 2004 at 11:10 AM
if he used a mercury switch and he is parked on a hill that wouldf be possible.




Posted By: ExactOh
Date Posted: January 25, 2004 at 5:40 PM

Thanks for all the input.  Believe me, I tried utilizing all the troubleshooting codes and testing everything possible in the diagnoses of this problem.  It turned out to be a bad relay in the Autocommand unit.  Though the jumper was set to energize Ignition 2 during On and Start, it was not energizing it during start.  The unit was working intermittantly when there was enough fuel pressure in the lines to start the car long enough, and then catch when Ignition 2 finally did activate.

Unfortunately, this unit was supplied by the customer, and purchased a while back.  In order to save myself some work, I just installed an external relay off of Ignition 1 for proper activation of Ignition 2.  Live and learn I guess.  Again, thanks for all the input!






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