4 window module wired wrong or wrong info

I installed a 4 window module today into my expedition. I was using the color codes that I recieved from the vehicle section here.

I found the Left Front Up (WHITE/ black stripe) and the RIght front up (Tan/blue dotted slashes running like a strip) under the kick panel on the left hand side. I found the Left Rear Up (Yellow/blue stripe) in the tapped and orange plastic sheilded wire assembly running behind the left kick pannel running on the floorboard twords the back of the vehicle. Finally I found the Right Rear Up (RED / black stripe) behind the fusebox behind the dash whay the hell up there where mans hands DONT fit.

I tested each wire by continuity test with negative probe at left door controls, and positive probe pushed into wire. I installed the module, trimmed the wires, wrapped them in a new wire loom and went to test it. I got nothing, there was hole in the module to adjust the power strength but I blew the fuse when I tried to "feel" locate the screw with a small flat head(opps). My question is, since the alarm module actually takes the time to decipher a "to motor" & "to switch) for the two wires for each coresponding window, is it possible that I actually wired ALL 4 backwards? What would happen here? Nothing right.? Any help would be apperciated. Also, the expedition has dome light relay's built into it, anyone know which wire to supply (-) to to actuate the onboard relay for dome lights.

Thanks

Well, using a fluke with ohm meter I worked with the wiring behind the left side kick panel where I had Identified the left front and right front wires. I tested for continuity from the one post on the motor to each side of the WHITE/ black (left front) splice I had created. I left the left door window wiring harness connected to the switch. I found one side that had continuity and one that did not. I did not test any of the other splices, as the left rear clearly runs down the door jam twords the rear, and the right rear clearly runs from left to right (this might be my mistake!). The side with continutiy with the wht/blk at the motor was labeled "to motor" and the other was labeled "to switch" And everything was hooked back up, making sure that the "to switch from window module" was connected to lead "to switch" and "to motor from wm", etc, etc. I tested the (-) negative pulse from the aux (-) output  and didnt think I was seeing it work corretly, so I rewired the Window Modules (-) to activate lead to the door lock pulse (-). I went ahead and armed the alarm with the windows down and nothing, I disarmed, and then using volt meter, grounded the black, and touched the red to the "to motor" splice and got +12volts, for confirmation, I switched the to motor and to switch leads, and when arming blew the fuse (which makes sense because both leads from the switchs are normally grounded. I put the to motor and to switch back to what I think is correct and put the dash back together. Wanting to go for my shotgun and shoot the sh*t out of it all.

I have studied the ford factory cd rom schematics and well as the chilton, funny they dont match up color wire wise, but the cdrom does match the vehicle db here so I am going with it, besides the continiuity proved the 1 wire correct. If I under stand it correctly, even though the window module tells you to make the connection between the Switch and Motor, the only real responsibility is to connect the leads to the appropriate "to motor" and "to ground" because as long as the relays in the Window module are disconnecting the "ground" so that the "to motor" can become positive for the duration of the window up command, your doing everything correct. All both legs of all the window motors actually "travel" the entire length of the vehicle and pass "though" the drivers side switch to obtain the "normally ground" signal, so no intermitant (-) connections are being introduced that would cause it to short. What am I doing wrong here?

I REALLY dont want to run two wires to each door, into the door to actually splice in physically at each motor all the way back to the drivers side kick panel, is THAT HOW it supposed to be done, am I missing something here in my analysis of this?  Anyone else that did this, can you tell me where you spliced the leads, where you found them?

Thanks

Thanks for the help, I wired 8 strands of 14ga coper wire to the door switch area and routed it back into the car under the drivers kick panel.

I made all the connections, Left Front - WHITE/ blk, RIght Front - Tan/Blue, Left Rear - Yellow/Blue, RIght Rear - RED / Black. I made the cuts and reconnections about 1.5 inches off the switch in the drivers door.

Went to test, Drivers side front rolled up, no other windows moved, 15amp fuse blown. Any suggestions? Is it a 1, then 2, then 3, then 4th window in sequence, or all at same time? Is 15amp fuse enogh for 4 power window motors pulling juice?

Thanks