Running wires from kick panel to door?

Hello,

I am trying to run eight wires from the driver's kick panel area to the driver's door.  The vehicle is a 2002 Lincoln Navigator.  I need these wires run for the window module (up/down configuration).  The wire that I MUST access at the door is for the driver's "up" function, wired from the switch to the motor.  The rest, from studying the diagram, can be found at he kick panel.

Here is the problem:  Using the factory route--the rubber boot connecting the door and kick panel, I tried a fish tape and stiff wires from both directions (kick panel to door/door to kick panel) but cannot get through.  I can see and feel the fish tape going from the door up to and near the kick panel but it gets hung up somewhere just before the entry point.  Wrapping with tape and grease do not help.  From the kick panel, I cannot see the entry location.  Even with many panels and trim pieces removed, I can barely get my fingers on the entry point.  It is blocked by the parking brake mechanism (along with auto-relase parking brake components) and GEM module.

I am certain that somone has done this.  What is the trick?

Thanks,

JAMES.

Thanks for your response.  The factory route is indeed the one I am trying to use.  There is a rubber boot connecting the door and the kick panel.  Inside, there is a wireloom, tightly taped.  I am trying to route the fish tape along the wireloom inside the boot. 

The real trouble is that the entry point inside the kick panel is blocked by the parking brake mechanism and I can barely put a few fingers on it.  Removing the mechanism seems impractical.

JAMES.

Thanks for the many responses.  It would appear that the consensus is to pull out the boot to run the fish tape.

Question for those who have done it: is it difficult, after disconnecting the boot from the door or door jamb, to get the grommet portion back into the door/door jamb properly?

Thanks again!

JAMES.

So in your previous post, JWorm, you mean to push most of the folds in the boot into the door while pushing the snake through?

On the inside kick panel, the entry point is blocked by the parking brake mechanism and auto release/vacuum mechanism.  I can only feel the hole with a couple of fingers but not see it.  Do you remove the mechanism (looks like a PITA).

In my previous attemps, it feels like the snake has gone through the rubber into the cabin but then it hits metal.  I know what you mean about directing the snake up but it seems like a difficult thing to do.

I apprecate any other comments that might be helpful.

JAMES.

I just did the same thing. JWorm is right, pushing as much of the boot as you can into the door is the way to go. Running the wires through the cabin with the boot out of the way in the door is relatively easy. I think you're probably going to have a bigger problem with the current draw. Navigator windows don't roll all the way up and down consistently with modules (at least not the 3 different brands I've tried).  I've tried a generic, an omega and a high current crimestopper model to no avail. I was going to try the DEI 530T, but haven't gotten around to it yet .Let me know what kind of module you used, and if it worked well.

tcool's post raises an interesting question.  Some vehicles require more current to move the windows than others, some motors draw more current than others.  As vehicles age, the windows tend to stick more, thus requiring more current.

If the window module has no "normal load" adjustment, how does it know when there is an obstruction or when the window has reached the top/bottom?

I remember, in another vehicle, with an old Clifford "Smart Window" module and the one touch up/down feature: when the vehicle is moving and the one-touch is engaged, when I hit a bump the window will stop mid travel.  The bump translates to more load on the motor, causing the one-touch to be cancelled.

The Navigator/Expedition/F-150s have large windows.  The OE wires from the switch to the motor is very large.  They look like at least 14 ga. wires.  I am sure that they draw more current than those from a Hyundai.

On the other hand, the wires that are on the window module look like 16 or 18 ga.  This is a module I picked up from "asianwolf.com" (please, go easy on your comments), it is a "smart" module that will open the windows a bit to vent when the cabin reaches 110 degrees.  The module will close the windows again when it cools.

I ask because, with all this work, I don't want to find myself with an inconsistent window up/down performance.  Using the same example, I am sure that the module would work fine for a Hyundai.  But what about my 'Gator?

Comments?

Thanks,

JAMES.

By the way, I have to say that this is a great forum.  I frequent many forms related to my cars, work, and interests.  As I am sure you all know, there are lots of @$$holes out there and help is hard to come by at times.

Here, I see a great group of people and helpful responses with good attatudes.  Many thanks to those who take the time to help me.

Kudos!

JAMES.

P.S. Now--about what I wrote above...

osokrayzay wrote:

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not hijacking thread in simliar situation tho . I am able to remove the boot, but it has a plastic clip with wires so i cant pass any wires trough, any suggestion.
Dodge Ram 1500 regualr cab

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if there is enough room in the clip then you need to drill new holes for the wire to go through....it's the same way on most hondas