Best Car Alarm w/Remote Start

anything less than $500.

What consists of a "good install", i'm curious

I dont plan on installing this myself...but if anybody professional that lives in NC can install it, I will pay them.  Some of the features that i want are:  Pathway illumination, windows rollup and down and also my sunroof, glass break sensor and also the sensor the trigger for when something hits my car and last but not least the voice module would be a nice touch up to the system.  I have a lot of expensive stuff on my car thats why i need all this isshh.  Let me know people what you thing.  Thanks.

radiantx wrote:

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What consists of a "good install", i'm curious

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Usually consists of hiding the alarm brain somewhere other then under the steering column and taping/split looming all the wiring coming from it. Otherwise its rather simple to just cut the wires you see exposed and kill power to the alarm, factory wiring is almost always loomed or taped up so doing that makes it hard for the theif to find it. Also obviously a good install means all your connections are soldered and taped well, if you have it done professionally and see T taps underneath there go get your money back, it's sooner or later going to need to be redone.

Appreciate that but I am asking what alarms do you recommend?

definitly a vote for viper for brand, I have to deal with code alarm at work and they're a royal pain in the ass to program, they also seem to have some shock sensor issues going on that I can't figure out how to deal with. Viper is very straightforward, they use jumpers for polarity choice on things like parking lights and such, making life much easier, there's already enough relays involved with alarms, 1 less is always a good thing. they include the 451M doorlock module as well, which, to my knowledge, handles pretty much every doorlock type on the market.

I'd also say their 2 way responder technology has the best range through a whole bunch of crap like cement walls and such, between that, and the fact i've never had one come back with problems, I'd say they've been the best in my experience.

NEW 4300 AviStart Security/Remote Start System
The state-of-the art AviStart 4300 combines the bedrock reliability of AviStart remote start technology with the peace of mind that comes with a high quality Avital security system in one integrated unit. Your AviGloT remote controls can operate your vehicle's courtesy lights, trunk release and door locks. AviStart Series products that include our RangeMasterT technology allow you to operate your system from an incredible distance.

I have one for sale

[QUOTE=NowYaKnow]
Not sure what models you are using, but code alarms are the easiest and most straight forward systems I have ever programmed.

Having to program the unit to accept the "all powerful time saving wireless prgrammer" doesn't seem to be very time saving in my opinion, with a few presses of the valet switch on a viper i'm in whatever category I want to be in, without the need to ready the brain to accept the input from the wireless programmer. Which resets itself every time you turn it off, so you have to go through the entire menu and ensure everything is how you want it, whether you're setting it the first time or just changing active locking to passive. I just don't like how code told the company that the wireless programmer would save us all so much time when in reality it never seems to work properly.

"Yeah, it's called the most adjustable shock sensor available on the market. Not to mention adjustment is only through programming so you don't have to tear the car apart just to tweak the shock a bit. "

It doesn't get any more simple then turning a screw on the shock sensor, instead of having to sit there going through all 400 settings just to try and tune the sensor I can be done with a #1 phillips and have it tuned by the time you set the warn away setting on the code, let alone the full alarm. Who puts an adjustable setting on both? I suppose it's nice, but i've never even thought of it as necessary.

Code Alarm uses fuse jumpers for park lights, dome sup, trunk output, and door locks

Never said they didn't, they do however, on some of their models, use another seperate wire to choose the polarity, simpler then a relay but still 1 more wire, but i'm not particularly complaining about that. The one I installed however, didn't have any jumpers for doorlocks, 1 wire was + lock/-unlock and the other vice versa.

"Doesn't DEI use that external relay pack anymore plus a relay for starter kill? 90% of the time for a code install you will not have to wire in ANY additional relays. Ign 1, Ign 2, Acc 1, Acc 2, starter kill, all built in. "

if you're hiding the alarm brain somewhere deep inside the dash you'll have to use a remote relay for starter kill regardless, it's not a good idea extending your starter wires 10' just to reach the brain, so i don't consider that a mark against viper. The external relay pack isn't such a bad thing considering the size of it, even WITH all the outboard relays the 791 brain is nowhere near the size of codes almighty brick. Though I suppose it's dual security, if the theif manages to yank it out of the car you can always beat him to death with it. You still have to wire a seperate relay for ign 3, just like viper,

"More relays for door locks? Code has + / - / 5 wire door locks ALL built in to the module. Also has + / - / 5 wire trunk release built in, and starter kill built in.

With everything built in getting a stealth install is easily accomplished. It sounds like you may be using the rebadged audiovox code alarm units. I'm referring to "true" code alarm stuff. Code basically have 2 modules for every line right now 1 is true code, and 1 is rebadged audiovox. The rebadged stuff would probably need a relay or more wired in depending on the install, which is why it's priced much cheaper than the true code stuff."

Possibly, the unit I recently installed definitly needed a seperate relay for trunk pop, I uninstalled a perfectly working 790 due to a moron customer who complained enough and got his way, then placed a CA 645 in, then after problems with the alarm simply not working I put a prestige alarm/remote start in it, now thats having issues. I've installed my fair share of the prestige alarms without any problems so I'm hoping it's not my install. The wiring colors from the code to the audiovox (who to my knowledge owns code now) were exactly alike, perhaps thats the rebadged units you're talking about.

"I have the Code Alarm CA-640 in my car which is a two-way system with keyless entry/alarm/remote start. I would highly recommend it or any other of the code alarm lineup. Obviously most of us installers will probably recommend what we install because it's what were used to and comfortable with. Every now and then when I do some oddball unit like a DEI or something they just don't seem to make sense. I'm sure other think the same thing when someone walks in with a code alarm, etc. Good luck,

Mike"

I can get over the programming issues, it's just a matter of memorizing it, I still think it's asinine compared to what I know, but like you said, DEI appears the same to you. My issue is the range and the brain simply locking up. The original brain would trigger every ~30 minutes on the dot and say it was the shock sensor going off, while it was sitting in front of our bay without so much as a bird landing on it. Then it just locked up, didn't respond to the remote, nothing worked, as to why I have absolutly no clue.

personal opinion clifford avanyguard 5