CS-2011RS IV - Remote Start Problem

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I've done my best to research my problem but cannot seem to find anything to help.

I have a crimestopper CS-2011RS and have started the installation in my 1999 Dodge Durango. The Durango has factory keyless entry but no alarm. I wired the alarm with the use of the wiring diagram found here at 12volt (and some help from posts here on the forum).

Here is my problem..everything seems to work fine - door locks, shock sensor, tach finder, valey switch, hood switch...however when I attempt a remote start, I get the three confirmation beeps, then the parking lights flash...I can then hear the doors lock and the fuel pump engage...but that is it. No start, no nothing. The fuel pump does not stay on for as long as it does when you turn the ignition one click up. The only wires I have not wired is the door switch sensor wires and the dome light wire. I also did not cut the starter wire to install a starter kill relay...will do later. I tested the brown wire that goes to the starter and it does not seem to be putting out 12 volts during the remote start.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have the brown wire going to the yellow wire in the ignition switch harness, but I don't think the brown wire is producing a 12 volt signal during the remote start...somehow it's not getting to that point. I will install the starter kill relay tomorrow and try again.

Someone mentioned that you need to place a diode between the alarm wire and the wire that disarms the factory system...any truth to that?

Thanks again,

Girt

Here is a little trick.....if your key to the truck is grey.....you might have a chip in the key.

could be a late version 99, early 2000.....leave the key in the ignition barrel and try to start it by remote starter.

if it starts, you need a bypass module for that truck.

The hood pin does not show ground when the hood is down, it does when the hood is up. The brake wire is showing +12 when the pedal is depressed (the manual shows that this should be the case). The alarm does not have a neutral safety switch wire.

Would the factory keyless entry system have anything to do with it (no alarm, just keyless entry)? I have it wired as described in the manual so that a neg. pulse is sent to the factory disarm wire, but I read somewhere about there being possibly two factory disarm wires and needing a diode to make it work.

Just a thought...I'm clueless...

The hood pin does not show ground when the hood is down, it does when the hood is up. The brake wire is showing +12 when the pedal is depressed (the manual shows that this should be the case). The alarm does not have a neutral safety switch wire.

Would the factory keyless entry system have anything to do with it (no alarm, just keyless entry)? I have it wired as described in the manual so that a neg. pulse is sent to the factory disarm wire, but I read somewhere about there being possibly two factory disarm wires and needing a diode to make it work.

Just a thought...I'm clueless...

ok in the remote start harness of the alarm, make sure you have hooked up BOTH battery1 and battery2 wires even if there is only one battery wire in the ignition harness...hook both battery wires into that wire.  ive seen people only hook up one and both must be hooked up for the alarm to send out 12v thru the starter wire. 

If the unit is not outputting a (+) 12 volt signal through the starter wire during remote start, then you have a defective unit. Aside from that make sure that your GROUND is secure & free from paint, oils & dirt. Having a bad ground DOES cause a NO START problem.

Here's another test for you to see if you have the rest of the wires in your installation correct. Splice in another wire onto the BROWN starter wire from the CS unit and jumper this wire to a 12 volt constant source for the same duration that the truck would normally take to start. Of course you want to do this after you press the remote start on the remote FOB and wait the 1.5 seconds after the fuel pump engages and then touch the wires together to manually engage the starter. If you have all the correct wires together, the truck will remain running. If you did not hook up all the right wires, then the truck will not stay running at all.

Thanks, I'll check both power wire again (they are both hooked up) to make sure they are show +12. I'll also try the starter trick.

One other piece of info:

The manual states that after the 3 confirmation beeps and the flash of the parking lights (both which do happen), the parking lights should then come on and stay lit...6 secs later the starter should come on. The parking lights do NOT come on again after the initial flash.

I'll let you know how the test you suggested come out.

Thanks again!

The starter wire was hooked in after the relay.

I don't know what fixed it, but last night I decided to just scrap the remote start portion of the alarm and just got with it like it was. I tied up all the wiring, stuffed it back into the dash and called it a night. This morning, low and behold I hit the remote start button on the remote to show the wife it wouldn't work and the dern thing started. It didn't stay running but about 5 seconds, so I think I need to re-learn the tach (what do you guys think?). I am guessing that I had a loose connection somewhere.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I really appreciate it!

-Girt

Re-learning the tach fixed the problem with the truck shutting off after about 5 secs.

Thanks again!

cgirtman wrote:

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Re-learning the tach fixed the problem with the truck shutting off after about 5 secs.

Thanks again!

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Yep, but the problem ended up being the brake wire which had pulled loose when I was putting everything back in the dash...I didn't realize it at the time. I figured it out when I stepped on the break and it didn't kill the engine as the manual said it would. Once it started, I had to re-teach the tach (that I had found in the beginning) to keep it running...works like a charm other than the brake problem..which I can fix.

Thanks for everything.