Remote Start Woes
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=39403
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 3:55 AM
Topic: Remote Start Woes
Posted By: mrbean01
Subject: Remote Start Woes
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 2:31 AM
I've decided to start a new thread about my install of a Matrix 3.5 rsx into my '89 240sx. I've been having some weird problems trying to get the remote start to work. Here's what I've got so far: 1) All wires from the alarm are hooked up correctly. 2) The car is manual, but all corresponding relays and wires (clutch override, neutral safety switch) are working correctly. 3) When I activate the remote start, the alarm brain clicks and the lights flash, but nothing happens. 4) I then ran a 12v wire directly to the starter, on top of the 12v spliced into the remote start relay, and tried remote starting again. This time, the engine started turning, but would not fire. What does this mean? Am I just not running enough power to the heavy gauge wire realy on my alarm to power the starter? I have not cut and attached the RED / white additional 12v input wire on the relay. Should I just run another 12v there? Why is the engine not firing? It's driving me nuts being so close... 
Replies:
Posted By: xtremeaudio
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 6:03 AM
it have 2 starter wire on your car 1 BLACK/ white 2 BLACK / YELLOW
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:21 AM
Both starters are properly hooked up to the relay and functioning properly, except during remote start of course...
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:29 AM
Do you have a hood pin switch hook up?
make sure you did not turn on the wait to start wire?
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 11:52 AM
Like I've said before, Everything is wired correctly. I've tested and verified every switch and sensor, including the hood pin, and almost every output that could be remotely associated with the remote start. I have not used any wires on the secondary harness where the wait to start wire is located.
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 6:34 PM
1. Has the tach been learned to the system? Where and how have you attached the tach wire??
2. Are all inputs varified and secured. Brake, hood, door, etc. I would double check all of them to ensure they are not indeed grounding out, with a DMM.
3. If you installed the starter kill / anti-grind, ensure it is wired after, and not before.
Follow up on those basics first.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 7:39 PM
Im gonna guess that Teken is one the right track with the Tach wire and the starter kill system. Those would make the most sense to me. Also are you sure you dont just have a defective unit.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 8:58 PM
1) I think this might be the problem. I tapped the tach wire at the ecu, and even after running the learn routine, it still twitches and acts funky. How exactly does this effect the remote start sequence? Is it preventing the relay from sending any power to the starter circuit during remote start? Where/how should I connect to the tach to ensure a clean, strong signal? 2) Yup. Tested and verified brake light, hood pin, door trigger, neutral safety, etc. with DMM 3) No seperate starter kill module installed As far as the unit being defective, it doesn't seem too likely, as all the functions are working fine, including those connected to wires in the remote start relay, like the doors lock/unlocking based on ignition. Like I posted earlier, I've been able to get the eingine to turn after runnning a 12v to the starter, so it seemed like a power issue... Other than that, I have no way of telling if the unit is defective or not... Thanks for all your quick responses so far!
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 20, 2004 at 9:09 PM
Normally you would measure the AC voltage from what ever source you have connected to. The RS wants to see a variable AC voltage of 1 to 6 VAC.
You can obtain the tach reference from the following sources.
Injector = Use wire that is uncommon from the rest.
Coil, back of the cluster, ATC, alternator.
Bottom line, you need to varify the tach voltage strength, to ensure a consistent RS each time.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 24, 2004 at 4:59 PM
Well, I've now got a solid connection to the tach behind the cluster (consistent AC voltage of 3.75 VAC verified with DMM) and the exact same problem remains: - I f I try to remote start normally, remote start sequence begins, but nothing happens (lights flash, alarm remote shows RS symbol, but engine does not turn) - If I run a seperate 12V to the starter circuit, and try to remote start, the engine turns, but does not fire. What is going on???
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:22 PM
The AC voltage should fluctuate with RPM movement of the gas pedal.
Please do not take me literally, about obtaining a constent AC source.
Your goal, and the RS goal is to obtain a flutuating AC signal which in turns informs the RS it is running alright.
Please varify the tach source, and see if it does rise and fall upon gas pedal application.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:33 PM
Oh, when I said it's a consistant 3.75, I just meant that for initial idle. It definitely responds to gas pedal application as the tach wire should.
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:47 PM
Nissan
240SX
1989-1990
Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes
Function
Vehicle Color
Location
Start:
BLACK/ WHITE
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition #1:
BLACK/ RED
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition #2:
N/A
Ignition #3:
N/A
Accessory:
BLUE
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Brake Light:
RED / GREEN (+)
(+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach Signal:
YELLOW/RED
AT DROPPING RESISTOR *
Parking Lights:
RED / BLUE
(+) AT LIGHT SWITCH
Headlights:
NOT RECOMMENDED -
POP-UP MOTORS SEPARATE CIRCUIT
OEM Alarm Disarm:
N/A
OEM Alarm Arm:
N/A
Diesel Glow Plug:
Clutch Bypass Wire:
Notes:
* Dropping Resistor Located On Driver Front Of Engine Compartment. 2 Wires- High Side From Coil/Power Transistor: LT. GREEN/ BLACK. Low Side To Tachometer And Engine Control Module: YELLOW/RED. ** This Vehicle Is Equipped With Two Start Wires. Both Must Be Powered In Order For Vehicle To Start When Engine Is Cold; See Note #235 - Nissan Starter Wires Diagram
I want you to locate this dropping resistor and wire the tach wire from the RS to this point.
The basics are not being applied here, and it will only fustrate you more, if we dont follow some sort of format.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 24, 2004 at 5:51 PM
12volts white + ignition harness
Starter BLACK/ white + ignition harness
Second Starter BLACK / YELLOW + ignition harness
Ignition BLACK/ red + ignition harness
Second
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 25, 2004 at 11:31 PM
Also, you might want to turn *ON* the tach threshold. This may also help you out in this situation.
Just another thing to consider for your current problem.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: RufNUSD
Date Posted: September 25, 2004 at 11:56 PM
This dude answered his question from his first post. He asked about hooking up the second power on the relay pack. It is 100% necc. to do this as one red wire feeds half the relays and the other red wire feeds the remaining. These wires arent there to just double the amperage going into the relays.
If thats not the problem any basic troubleshooting skills would solve this. Are you testing the voltage on all your ignition and starter wires when you apply the remote start process? It doesnt sound like it. It either that or the clutch interface you rigged up.
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Someone pass me that bottle.
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 26, 2004 at 2:11 AM
To answer: Ruf: You're refering to the RED / white wire that I have to cut, right? do I run a 12v to each end of the wire after I cut it, or just one? If it's absolutely necessary, why is it listed as optional? I'm not questioning you. Just wondering. - I've tested both starters, the ignition, and tach wires during remote start, and I get absolutely nothing. - The clutch bypass is solid. As I've said, I've managed to get the engine to turn, so the clutch is not the problem. Teken: Why is it necessary to run the tach wire from the dropping resistor? Not to be argumentative, but I've got a good, clean connection at the cluster that meets all the requirements you previously listed. Please bear with me, but my biggest concern is that I'm not getting ANY signals from any of the wires during remote start, so it seems the tach isn't even an issue at this point. Could you tell me exactly when and how the alarm processes the signal from the tach during the remote start process? Like I said earlier, and Ruf seems to reinforce, it seems to be a power issue ATM. Please don't get me wrong. I totally respect what everyone has said so far, and I'm too much of a noob to doubt anyone, but I really wanna figure out how this thing works instead of just follow directions I don't understand. Thanks!
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: September 26, 2004 at 12:35 PM
Try starting with the key then activate the remote starter. Now take the key out. Does it remain running?
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 27, 2004 at 7:31 PM
The remote start won't activate when the car is already running.
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 27, 2004 at 7:37 PM
Please connect *ALL* wires as per the outlined wiring schematics provided above.
We need to follow the basics, otherwise you are wasting valuable time.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: September 27, 2004 at 7:46 PM
Have U Removed Brake wire & grounded it? Also disconnect Hood pin switch.
If you press Remote & just get a click with NO Ignition, Lites or other RS functions, it sounds like RS is in disable mode.
U probably should still verify Teken's suggestions or double check your wiring I ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: mrbean01
Date Posted: September 28, 2004 at 3:37 AM
Gah, I'm embarrassed to do this, but since all you guys took the time to answer my questions: I finally got it working. The problem was actually just as Ruf stated: I didn't hook up the second red 12v wire. Totally stupid mistake. That should have been the first thing I checked, but since the remote start relay was hidden out of sight, and there was already 1 wire going to the 12v, I completely forgot the unit came with 2 red power wires. I was ready to run a 12v to the RED / white additional 12v wire when I finally noticed second red wire. I just hooked it up, and the car started up beautifully.  Thanks for all your patience! At least now I know all my other connections are correct, having checked them so many times... 
Posted By: Teken
Date Posted: September 28, 2004 at 8:38 AM
Everyone lives and learns. From an outside observers point of view, I would urge you to follow the reference material(s) to the letter.
This will avoid alot of aggravation, and stress for all parties concerned.
Enjoy the RS, and know you did it yourself.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
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