Printer Friendly Forum Posts - still trying to get this clifford right

I'm still trying to get this clifford Intelliguard mellinia right. I've been to 3-4 local Clifford dealers trying to get help but they are no help at all. So after all the run-a-round from them I've purchased me own wizard pro on Ebay I've connected to the alarm but every time I set power to the alarm it goes off and my transmitters don't seem to work. AND the wizard pro wont do anything til I disarm the alarm. What all must I connect to bench test this alarm, because I don't have a laptop, can someone please help me ASAP

Turn the key to run, then try powering the alarm. Bench test would be just power and ground, at least for what you need. Maybe door trigger to ground as well.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I am having the same problem with my Clifford IG8000. However, I first plugged everything in and could not get anything to respond. I tried the valet switch to make sure the remoted were coded correctly, but no led response. I gave up after a while, went inside and the siren started going off. The only thing that would shut it off was pulling power. Now, every time I plug power back on, the siren goes off....

I tried the suggestions and no success...and I'm having the same problem as decoder

I tried the suggestions as well. I plug the unit in, the siren starts going off. I turn the ignition on, enter the valet code, but no response. The led flashes 1 time ever second. I am tempted to get but the cliffnet cable but like CutlassThunder said, he cannot access anything unless the alarm is off. I must have wired something wrong for it to be acting this way, but what could it be?

Well, I made some progress. I read in another post that I needed +12V to go to the WHITE/ Brown wire to get the alarm to see that the ignition was on. This allowed the alarm to respond to the valet buttons. The alarm shut off after entering the factory code.

I now realize that the alarm brain should have been installed before the Intellestart. I installed them at the same time.

Now my troubles is getting the remote autoprogrammed. I followed the procedure but keep getting 3 chirps insteat of the confirmation 1 chirp. The three chirps does not coinside with the led shutting off so it is still in the programmable features menu. Not sure why this is happening.

Time to do more searching.

well you have made progress I haven't tried anything since my last post..I'm trying to bench test mine, since I don't have a laptop, and the whole reason I bought the software is because I wasn't sure of the valet codes...what all do I need to hook up to becnh test this alarm to hook to my computer

I'd imagine you would just need to hook up anything that is connected to the battery (+12V and ground, make sure the black terminal on the 12 volt supply is not -12, it needs to be 0). Then use a test probe with +12V to activate the brown white wire so it thinks the ignition is on. It would also help to have a speaker or the siren connected to the siren output to hear what is going on. From there you should be able to enter valet mode.

I remember you saying something about the intellistart, I'm not to worry about that right now correct? besides the cliffnet cable takes up the data plug anyway how do I achieve a 0 ground?

First use a meter to determine if the black terminal is -12 or 0. If the voltage between the two is 0 then the black terminal is -12V. If it reads 12V, then the black terminal is 0.

Dont worry about the Intellistart if you have that.

deocder wrote:

First use a meter to determine if the black terminal is -12 or 0. If the voltage between the two is 0 then the black terminal is -12V. If it reads 12V, then the black terminal is 0.

Dont worry about the Intellistart if you have that.

I bought a brand new multi meter like 3 years back and have never used it...mainly because I don't know how

oh I'm using a small amperage(10amp 12volt) battery charger..

thats a will do...Iplan on giving it another try today

I finally got around to trying it again still no success..I tried energizing the igintion circuit(WHITE/ brown wire) before connecting power to the brain, and after powering the brain both did nothing...the brain continues to go off....and my LED flashes every second. Can I send this thing back to clifford or something to get the codes out or something, this thing seems to be more headache than its worth...

When the siren screams and you remove power from the brain, it remembers its state (armed/disarmed), so when you power it back up, it again begins screaming. To disarm the system using the valet switch, you must power up the brain, enter preset valet code of "2" by pressing the valet switches * button twice, then pressing the unmarked button. Next press and hold the * button for about 3 seconds to enter programming mode. You should hear 1 siren chirp and the LED should be on. Any programming should now be started within 5 seconds.

what about what someone was saying earlier about the ignition having to be on....if it can remember its state why cant it remember the remotes? I have both orignial remotes and neither do anything..what all is a "must" connect to enter valet mode? Like I said I'm tryin to get this thing to work in my office, because I don't have a laptop. Don't these alarms have a lifetime warranty how can I get clifford to test my brain?...is there away to make sure my valet switch is working, because my alarm doesn't do anything but may a clicking noise(no siren hookedup)

the clicking noise is probably the onboard relay to flash your parking lights. Have you programmed in the remotes to the brain yet? Even though they came with the alarm, they still have to be programmed into it. to make it appear as though you've turned your key on, you must supply +12v to the ignition wire after you've supplied +12v to the power wire (i think its red) and ground to the ground wire (i think its black).

oh ya, and you must "turn on the ignition" (supply +12v to the ignition wire for the alarm) within 5 seconds of powering up the alarm. because the relay is clicking, you've managed to power up the alarm, now you must get it into programming mode by turning on the key and using the valet switch to get there.

you should also hook up a 12v battery to the charger, just like if you were chaqrging the battery. use the lowest amperage setting on the charger, then hook up the alarm to the battery/charger. The battery is a must if you want to use the charger as a power supply. Your multimeter is relalively easy to use. It probably has a dial on it, with settings for ac (a squigly line on top of a straight line) which won't be used here. Dc is the one you want. it has a dashed line above a straight line for the symbol. there may also be ohms (symbol is a horseshoe) also not needed here. if you take the multimeter leads and touch them to the battery terminals, you should get a reading of about 12.5-14.5v. if you get a negative reading, the leads are backwards. always touch the black lead to the negative terminal, then use the red lead to probe the wire that you are curious about. if the meter shows 0v, the wire you are testing is ground. if it shows 12v, you've got a positive wire.

diggerdoo wrote:

the clicking noise is probably the onboard relay to flash your parking lights. Have you programmed in the remotes to the brain yet? Even though they came with the alarm, they still have to be programmed into it. to make it appear as though you've turned your key on, you must supply +12v to the ignition wire after you've supplied +12v to the power wire (i think its red) and ground to the ground wire (i think its black).

isn't the ignition wire on this alarm WHITE/ brown? isn't there also only 4 different valet combinations? but if I input the wrong one there is a period of time before the alarm will allow me to try again, how long must I wait, will removing the power and reconnected allow me to try again?

I'm not sure about the period of time if you put 4 wrong combos in. The valet switch is usually used to program features into the alarm, like auto arming and auto door locking. Yes, the ignition wire is WHITE/ brown. Did Clifford include a wiring diagram or installation instructions? They usually don't, but they always include a user manual, which should have detailed instructions on adding a remote, deleting a lost remote, etc. Feel free to scan the user manual and email it to me, maybe I can clear up your problem.

The only problem I see here is that everyone is assuming your alarm is using the preset valet code of "2" which wouldnt be a smart idea in the first place. If your valet code was changed at any time (which is recommended) then you wont get the alarm to respond without entering that code. With 5 (might be 4, cant remember) unsuccessful attempts the alarm will ignore the valet switch for something like 15min because it thinks someone is guessing codes. You should get to a clifford dealer that has the dealer / installer version of cliffnet wizard and see if they will connect it to your alarm. It will tell them what the valet code is. And no removing power will not let you try the codes again any sooner. If you are sure your code is the factory default of "2" your valet switch could be defective which I have seen before. Clifford installation guides even tell you how to test your valet switch with a meter to determine if its bad. You can download the install manuals from https://www.directed.com/coms.asp Hope this helps...good luck with it.

The above link is really usefull if you don't have the owners manual, but I couldn't find a Clifford install manual. As Cutlass has already had the alarm respond and go into programming mode (near the beginning of these posts), I think the problem would be understanding the neccesary steps and the amount of time that you have to do them.
Cutlass, are you able to get into programming mode? The possible number of codes for the valet are limitless, but chances are you haven't changed it from the factory code of 2, which would be entered by pressing **blank on the valet switch. If you're able to get this far, your next step is entering in your remotes. Right after entering your code above, press and hold * until you hear the siren chirp (aprox 4 sec). Next press * once, and within 5seconds press blank on the valet. now immediately press button 1 on the remote and you should hear one chirp from the siren. Again push button 1 on the remote and you should hear 2 chirps. To exit, turn the ignition off, or disconnect the WHITE/ brown wire.

Not being funny, but if these guys dont know how to check 0v (previuos posts) or how to use o DMM, should they really be fitting car alarms !!!!!

If you are not up to the job, dont even bother, you could cause a fire etc etc

If these guys cant even use a DMM, or are trying to hook up an alarm to a battery charger, should they really be trying to fit car alarms.

Bite the bullet and call a professional fitter

deocder wrote:

Well, I made some progress. I read in another post that I needed +12V to go to the WHITE/ Brown wire to get the alarm to see that the ignition was on. This allowed the alarm to respond to the valet buttons. The alarm shut off after entering the factory code.

I now realize that the alarm brain should have been installed before the Intellestart. I installed them at the same time.

Now my troubles is getting the remote autoprogrammed. I followed the procedure but keep getting 3 chirps insteat of the confirmation 1 chirp. The three chirps does not coinside with the led shutting off so it is still in the programmable features menu. Not sure why this is happening.

Time to do more searching.

diggerdoo, your post is really helpful if Cutlass was able to get his into programming mode but he isnt able to do that from what I am reading. It looks like decoder was having the same problem with his and was able to make some progress but not Cutlass =) BTW I checked the link and it does look like they have removed the install guides from the page. I downloaded an Avauntguard4 install manual from there a few months ago but its not there now. If I come up with a link to an install guide I will post it.