2001 Nissan Frontier, Autopage RS855

How would I wire in a relay to bypass the clutch safety? I am in the process of installing a Autopage 855. I'm guessing I wire the clutch wire to the normally open contact points, but what wire from the alarm do I hook up to energize the relay only when it is attempting to remote start?

Thanks

2001 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab

You need to find out first it the clutch switch is a positive or negative switch. Most clutches have two switches, an upper switch for the cruise and a lower switch for the clutch. The lower switch opens when the clutch is fully engaged. This is the switch that you need to meter. Start the vehicle and meter the switch to find out if it is a pos. or neg. then post the results. If I am around I'll comment some more.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Does the knock sensor have an led in the middle of it? I put the knock sensor on the windshield and noticed there was a small circular knock out it the middle of the adhesive. Is there an led behind that that will blink if someone trys to page you?

First off, I hope you are tapping into the neutral sensor that is built into that frontier's transmission. This will show ground in neutral and voltage in any gear. The autopage RS-855 has a remote start control switch which needs to see ground to enable remote start. Connect the control switch wire, H10/3 black white wire to the neutral sensor wire..usually from the ECU. This will prevent your car remote starting in gear. I just did this on a 5spd maxima last week using the same alarm. Works great.

Like every 5-spd nissan, it should be a positive clutch bypass. You should have 2 switches..one for the cruise control, and the other is a clutch bypass. The cruise control cutoff is towards the top of the pedal and is activated when the pedal comes to rest with foot off clutch. The clutch interlock switch is the one at the bottom which is activated when you depress the clutch pedal. Take a multimeter and get to the bottom switch of the pedal. Meter the wires, one of them should show ground and the other should be null. Turn the key in the ignition to on, one wire should show 12v and the other should show null. The wire you are looking to bypass is the wire that is null..without the 12v.. Verify this first.. If you can verify this (double check), wire the clutch bypass as follows:

On the RS855 there is an ignition 3 wire that you can use for bypassing the clutch. This is an onboard relayed ignition 3 with a -200MA yellow wire going to the H10/11 wire. It will activate when remote start is on and cranking. Connect this yellow wire to pole 86 of a 12v/30A relay. Connect pole 85 and pole 30 to a fused 12v source. Connect pole 87 to the clutch bypass wire you figured out earlier above. When you activate remote start, and the truck is in neutral, the autopage will send the ignition 3 signal to activate clutch bypass, which will in turn allow a crank condition to start. As with everything, double-check everything I wrote and test it out..especially in a safe area. Good luck and post back with results

I have three different areas where I need your expertise. I am installing this remote start alarm in a 2001 Nissan Frontier crew cab SE. I would greatly appreciate any help with any or all of my questions.

1. This vehicle is equiped with two starter wires, BLACK / YELLOW(starter1) and GREEN/ YELLOW(starter2). I already connected the a starter disable relay to break starter 1 wires, but I still haven't hooked up the starter 2 wire yet. I was just going to isolate the 2nd starter wire with a relay. Can you tell me if this is the correct way to do it? I would wire the starter output from the alarm (H1/1 violet) going to the BLACK / YELLOW(starter 1 vehicle harness) in parallel with the relay coil going to starter 2. Here is how I would hook up the relay.

Relay
86 jumpered off H1/1
85 Ground
30 Constant 12volt source
87 GREEN/ YELLOW (2nd starter wire)

Is this correct? I'm assuming the 2nd starter only needs power when the vehicle is trying to crank. This would also mean that the relay would close during keyed start, but there would be voltage going two starter2 wire anyways. So, why are these wires isolated if they both get voltage when the key is in the start position.

2. Is the H10/6(green) a current sensing wire? My vehicle has a dome light delay, so I was going to use the GREEN/ red(at smart entrance control) for the drivers door and the GREEN/ black(located at smart entrance control) for the other doors isolating them with diodes, which would connect to h10/6(green at alarm). Most of the tech sheets I have seen say to use the RED / black wire for the door trigger. Can I just use this wire and have the alarm learn the dome light delay (if it is current sensing)?

3. I would like to have the alarm unlock the driver's door with one press of the unlock button and all doors with the 2nd press just like the factory keyless entry sysem that is already in the vehicle. Can I accomplish this by following the 2 STEP DOOR UNLOCK WIRE CONNECTION FOR GROUND SWITCHED DOOR LOCKS in the install manual?

Connect the regular starter wire from the RS-855, Violet, to the first starter wire. Connect the 2nd ignition wire directly to the second starter wire.. It is already relayed inside the RS855's brain. It should come on with remote start. I just did this on a nissan 2 weeks ago using the same alarm...

H10/6 is a negative door trigger wire and looks for a ground signal..meaning your doors would show voltage upon close and ground upon open. Look at the RED / black wire first and see if it activates with all the doors on the truck open/close...use that. If not, follow the GREEN/ red and GREEN/ black at the smart control unit..diode isolate them.

Yes, you can connect priority locks using that diagram..it will work..I have done it. Just make sure you tell the autopage brain what the H10/14 pink wire is used for since it also doubles as a horn output.

Thanks for the info metaverse. Will any harm be done to my vehicle by hooking up the 2nd ignition wire from the alarm to the 2nd start wire on my vehicle? This would mean that there would be a constant 12 volts applied to the 2nd starter when the vehicle is remote starting; it wouldn't drop out even after the vehicle started.

Thanks again.

It will indeed be active when remote started and running, until you put a key in ignition..

I have done it this way for years with no adverse effects for vehicles that require a second starter wire. If you are concerned, connect it to a first ignition wire and relayed like you have written above, that should work as well.

Here is another way of doing it: 2nd starter wire

On the door locks, it says to wire up 87 with 12volt constant (n/o contact point). Therefore, when the alarm sends the ground signal to 86 (85 wired constant 12volts) it will pull in the relay allowing 12 volts to 30 (door unlock wire). I thought this wire was only suppose to get a negative signal.

Reverse the polarity of the relay to give a negative signal. Connect 87 to ground and the output on 30 should be a negative..

Does anybody have a tech sheet for a 2001 Nissan Frontier that shows the location/wire color driver's door unlock motor wire, and the door triggers for driver, passenger, and rear doors.

Metaverse

When you wire up this alarm for double pulse unlock, does the alarm send the pulse to H10/14(pink) first or to the H7 blue wire? I'm looking at page 17 diagram, 2 STEP UNLOCK WIRE CONNECTION FOR GROUND SWITCHED DOOR LOCKS.

Thanks

2001 Nissan Frontier

Item	Wire Color	Polarity	Wire Location
12V	green	+	ignition harness
STARTER	BLACK / YELLOW	+	ignition harness
IGNITION	BLACK/ white	+	ignition harness
ACCESSORY	RED / yellow	+	ignition harness
SECOND ACCESSORY	none
TACHOMETER	pink/blue or black		instrument cluster or ECM *2
POWER LOCK	yellow *7	-	*3
POWER UNLOCK	yellow/red *7	-	*3
PARKING LIGHTS +	blue/red		steering column
PARKING LIGHTS -	none
DOOR TRIGGER	RED / black *4	-	*3
HEADLIGHTS	red, RED / blk *5	+	steering column
WIPERS	*6	-	steering column
LF WINDOW UP/DN	blue - blu/blk	A	at drivers door switch
RF WINDOW UP/DN	blu/yel - blu/wht	A	at drivers door switch
LR WINDOW UP/DN	none
RR WINDOW UP/DN	none
TRUNK/HATCH PIN	none
HOOD PIN	BLACK/ pink	-	*3
TRUNK/HATCH RELEASE	none
FACTORY ALARM ARM	arms with lock
FACTORY ALARM DISARM	disarms with unlock
HORN TRIGGER	lt grn/red or brown	-	steering column
BRAKE WIRE	BROWN / red	+	brake pedal switch
LOCK MOTOR	blue		*3
UNLOCK MOTOR	GREEN / WHITE		*3
DISARM DEFEAT	purple or blu/red *9		*3
DISARM NO UNLOCK	*8
DOME SUPERVISION	none	non	none
SPEED SENSE	dk. GREEN/ black	2	ECM *2
SUN ROOF OPEN/CLOSE	none	non	none
SUN ROOF LIMIT	none	non	none
LF SPEAKER	none	non	none
RF SPEAKER	none	non	none
LR SPEAKER	none	non	none
RR SPEAKER	none	non	none
RADIO 12V	none	non	none
RADIO GROUND	none	non	none
RADIO SWITCH	none	non	none
RADIO ILLUMINATE	none	non	none
POWER ANTENNA	none	non	none
Notes:	*1 Not required for remote start. *2 The ECM is located below the heater box to the right of the accelerator pedal, behind trim panel. The tach is in the top row, 3rd pin left of center of the plug. The VSS is in the 2nd row from the top, 4th pin right of center. *3 Located at the Smart Entrance Control Unit above the hood release in the drivers kick panel. The door lock wires only meter when turn the key in either door key cylinder. *4 If equipped with factory dome light delay, use GREEN/ red(-) for the drivers door and GREEN/ black(-) for the passenger door. Diode isolate each wire. The RED / black may also be found in the drivers A pillar. *5 These wires are for the low beams. For the high beams use RED / green(+) and RED / white(+) at the same location. *6 Use WHITE/ blue for intermittent, WHITE/ red for low, and blue/white high. *7 Unlock requires a double pulse. On vehicles without the factory alarm, can also find lt. GREEN/ red for lock and brown for unlock. *8 A single pulse to the unlock wire will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors. *9 It is purple on the 2 door models, and blue/red on the 4 door.

Look at the diagram on page 18..it includes use of the pink wire. The pink wire should give a double pulse unlock along with the blue. Maybe you meant page 18 instead of 17..my electronic PDF of RS-855 install manual has it on page 18.

Look at the setting on page 21 alarm feature B programming..set it to double pulse. Also look at the Alarm feature C programming on page 21 Tell it the pink wire is to be used for two step unlock output. I understand it is the default setting, but, go verify it nonetheless.

There is a way to to tap into the door lock timers on nissan's to use the priority unlock that the factory remote fob's use..Unfortunately, I don't know that circuitry..blah..would come handy on both of my nissans...lol.

I figured out which wire controls the central lock, but I am confused about which wire is for the door lock motor. There are two GREEN / WHITE wires at the SECU. One is a heavier gauge wire than the other. Is the door lock wire usually a heavier guage? How do I test the wire to see if it is the right one? All the tech sheets say to test it with the key cylinder. What does that mean?

Take a look at this link: Lock tips

I found the wire. It was the heavier gauge wire out of the two. I tested it and only the driver's door locked. I'm finished with the alarm, but I haven't started to program it yet. Anything I should know about the process, or is it straight forward?

I got everything working, almost. The remote start works great. This isn't a bad alarm at all. I cut the driver's door lock motor wire and applied 12volts to the motor side, and it just unlocked the driver's door like it should. However, when I press the unlock button on the transmitter, it unlocks both doors. I couldn't find the yellow and yellow/red wires at the secu, so I used the alternate wire colors that were on my tech sheet for vehicles without factory alarms. I tested this wire with and a single pulse would unlock all doors. How are alarms usually set up when programmed for double pulse? There is two unlock wires coming from the brain. One wire goes to the relay hooked up to the door lock motor, and the other goes to the central door switch. Does the brain send a single negative pulse to both wires with one press of the transmitter and another pulse to the main switch upon the second press?
Also, I went into test mode and tried to adjust the shock sensor, but I can only get the first warning out of it. It is supposed to be a 2 stage shock sensor, but I am only getting a warning and not full alarm in test mode or out. I even set the sensitivity high and tapped on the shock sensor, still no luck. Any ideas?

I don't think test mode will do a full trigger..it is just to verify if the sensor is even working and to adjust warning..

As for the lock..you got me. If you wired it up as the picture below, it should work..

I guess I'll test it out again. When the car is remote started and I press the unlock button only the driver's door unlocks. However, when I just press the unlock button, without the car running on remote start, all door locks open. I'm thinking the alarm sends a single negative pulse to both the H7(blue) and the H10/14 (pink) wire on the first press and another pulse to the H10/14 (pink) wire upon the second press. As for the SIS-11 shock sensor, in the test mode it says warn away is a short chirp and second stage is a long chirp. I'm only getting a short chirp. Well, I probably have something wrong with the vehicle wiring, so I'll test it out. The thing is that the master door lock unlock wire only needs a single pulse to unlock all doors.

Looking at the diagram, I think it is the other way around. The blue wire probably sends the first pulse since it is connected to the oem door lock motor and not to all lock motors. the pink wire is connected to the master switch which unlocks all the doors. Try wiring it that way and see if it works (assuming that you do not have it that way) I think that when you tell the system it has a priority unlock setup enable, it reverses which wire gets the pulses first..

Does the shock sensor work when you arm the car (out of test mode) Try sitting in the car and arm it and see if it works by thumping on it directly after 30 seconds..

I wasn't counting the led and chirps properly when programming. I had the pink wire set to factory disarm, so it was sending a pulse to the main door lock switch when I pressed the remote. I have it set up right now and everything works good. The shock sensor does have two stages when I test it by just arming the alarm. I just couldn't tell the difference in test mode. I appreciate all the help Metaverse.

Glad to hear it worked out.. Enjoy the alarm..I love mine..