Installing Viper 560XV in a 98 S-10

Looking for some good advice, I bought a Viper 560XV. It should be here tomarrow. I hope to install this on Sunday. I've never installed a alarm before and basically need the info to install this thing. I've installed stereos and other things for years, just never done anything like this.

This is the info I've got so far. https://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=2433&product=Remote%20Start

Also, I do know I have passlock. So I bought the 555L.

Some of my questions. How do you guys suggest I tap into the wires. T-taps ? Scotch locks ?, or would you cut the wire and solder in and heat shrink, ????

If anyone has any experience with the Viper products can someone explain the H1/3 WHITE/ Blue remote start (-) activation input wire ?

Also the H1/2 White (+/-) selectable light flash output. According to the chart above can anyone tell if I have + or -. So I look at the chart and it says circuits that draw 10 or more amps I need to use a relay anyone know if I need to use a relay ?

Now on to the door triggers can someone help help me with a small wire diagram for the door triggers. I've been told that I need to use relays to do this.

Also any good info on the PASSLOCK II I bought the 555L is this hard to install ?

Sorry for the Book,

Thanks guys.

Also which wires should I use to run the unlock.

1) Avoid the T-taps stick with soldering, heatshrink is graet but costly and time consuming, electrical tape works just as good.

2)I was told "as a rule dont use this wire" all it is is a wire for a push button switch to ground. so you can remote start the vehicle by pressing this button located on the inside of the car. To me it is pretty pointless and should not be used.

3)The parking light wires on this truck are (-) ground switched, so just make sure that the adjusable feature is set to pulse a (-)

4)You do not need relays for your door locks. Find the wires and strip the insulation and I think tahat it is the green wire to the lock and the blue wire to unlock. Dont hold me to it, read the manual to see which wire pulses (+) during lock and which wire pulses (+) during unlock.

5) in my opinion the passlock II is amongst easiest to install and the direction are self explanitory.

Take your time, good luck and have fun doing it.

jaurora wrote:

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1) Avoid the T-taps stick with soldering, heatshrink is graet but costly and time consuming, electrical tape works just as good.

2)I was told "as a rule dont use this wire" all it is is a wire for a push button switch to ground. so you can remote start the vehicle by pressing this button located on the inside of the car. To me it is pretty pointless and should not be used.

3)The parking light wires on this truck are (-) ground switched, so just make sure that the adjusable feature is set to pulse a (-)

4)You do not need relays for your door locks. Find the wires and strip the insulation and I think tahat it is the green wire to the lock and the blue wire to unlock. Dont hold me to it, read the manual to see which wire pulses (+) during lock and which wire pulses (+) during unlock.

5) in my opinion the passlock II is amongst easiest to install and the direction are self explanitory.

Take your time, good luck and have fun doing it.

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Thanks for the great replys,

1) That's cool, I didn't really think that they were a good way to go, I think I may go ahead and solder and heatshrink, time is not a problem.

2) Ok, Thanks for clearing that up for me, The instructions are not written in english they are written in tech talk, so I got a little confussed by this wire. According to the picture it was just a switch to ground and I was like what the hell is the point in this. Oh well another wire not used.

3) I will flip the jumper to ( - ) There was also a note that stated if my parking light system uses more then 10 amps to use a relay on this. This is ness. for my app ?

4) Sorry about this mixup, I wasn't not very clear on this. I actually do not have power locks, I want to add accutators later, within a couple of weeks. I am going to run the wires now so I don't have to rip all this stuff back apart. But I wondering if I have to use relays for the lock accutators ?

5) Ok, I thought the passlock was going to be hard. But that's great if it is not. What wire does the passlock hook to on the alarm/remote start. I'm guessing there is a wire from the passlock that replaces one of the other connection, probally the ign. or something.

I will certianly take my time and have fun doing this. I'm not the kinda person that likes to have other people work on my stuff that's way I'm doing this myself.  I've always wanted to do an alarm. I kinda do this with everything. ex. I wanted a fiberglass speaker box, so I made it. 

Thanks again guys, I'm really looking forward to being even more lazy, lol.

The passlock wires are differnt on the trucks and suv's. The manual will point that out.

If adding doorlock actuators, you will need 2 relays to do so. I find it easier to use the DEI 451M. This is a micro relay pack for door locks. It is also easy to interface with.

The passlock wires are differnt on the trucks and suv's. The manual will point that out.

If adding doorlock actuators, you will need 2 relays to do so. I find it easier to use the DEI 451M. This is a micro relay pack for door locks. It is also easy to interface with.

I hate when that happens,

I think I only have two more questions.

1) Back to the parking light relay. Am I going to need to relay that. It says over 10 amps yes.

2) Neatral switch. What's the deal with that, the book is pretty complcated to understand about that.

Thanks again.

1) you dont need a relay for the lights

2)Try to start your truck with it in drive, if it doesent start you dont need to worry about the netural safty hookup.

Thank god, lol, I didn't want to deal with that stuff too. lol.

That's what I was thinking about the netural safety switch. Plus I can't even get my key out with the truck not in parl so I didn't really understand the point of it.

Thanks for all the help.

Ok, I've got a few more questions. I just got my alarm today, and I've opened it and looked at it, I think I'm ok on 90%, Here is my major question. I have a 4 wire plug on the relay satellite wiring. I've got the ribbon ok, I've got the large gauge wires ok, ecept way do I have two 12Vconstants. Also, There is a little 4 wire haress with this harness I have no clue what's going on with this. The wire are as follows.

Blue (-) Status out put, ORANGE (-) 200mA 2nd assessory output, PURPLE (-) 200mA starter output, PINK (-) 200mA 3rd ignition output.

I have no clue what to do with this harness I didn't see it in the book at all.

dont use this 4 pin harness... it's for powering extra relays ( 2nd starter, 2nd Acc, etc )  use the status wire ( if needed )  that is in the plug with your brake wire and nuetral safety wire.....

you have 2) 12 v constants to split the current load... you are energizing 4 separate circuits... hook them both up as well as the fused red wire in the flat secondary harness