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2001 ford escape keyless entry

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49329
Printed Date: June 08, 2024 at 9:47 AM


Topic: 2001 ford escape keyless entry

Posted By: jaurora
Subject: 2001 ford escape keyless entry
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:21 AM

For the keyless entry portion of the vehicle are relays required? I know that the wires need to see a (-) pulse and the unit has the capability to do this. But it differs from one tech sheet to the next. One just says - pulse locks and - pulse unlocks. But the other says that it needs to see a chasis ground in order to work. Which is correct?

Thanks for any help.



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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy



Replies:

Posted By: Bmnicolosi
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:24 AM
if the unit will allow for negative pulse, all you do is hook up the lock and unlock wires respectively.  the chasis ground is what you would use to "program" the unit for negative locks. i.e. if you have a positive pulse you hook to 12 volts, negative hooks to ground.




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:26 AM
FORD, ESCAPE, 2001, Power Lock, pink/white

Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 1,000 ohm resistor. Unlock is a negative trigger. Must use relay on both.

The GEM (generic electronic module) is behind the center console on the floor. Pull off the black panel to the right of the gas pedal, there will be carpet covering it. The plugs face the driver side of the vehicle.
close


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:35 AM

See this is the issue,

once again I have two different answers. I really dont care about words from tech sheets right now. Has anyone compleated the task of hooking up a keyless entry in this specific vehicle. I dont mean to sound rood, but I keep getting the same response. 1 says yes and 1 says no. This is by no means of my first keyless more or less ~50. But I am getting 2 types of responses for this. I think I will just spend the $6 and hook up the relays anyway. If I need them I need them and if I dont oh well the customer has relays!



-------------
MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:36 AM

See this is the issue,

once again I have two different answers. I really dont care about words from tech sheets right now. Has anyone compleated the task of hooking up a keyless entry in this specific vehicle. I dont mean to sound rood, but I keep getting the same response. 1 says yes and 1 says no. This is by no means of my first keyless more or less ~50. But I am getting 2 types of responses for this. I think I will just spend the $6 and hook up the relays anyway. If I need them I need them and if I dont oh well the customer has relays!



-------------
MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 10:53 AM
Use the relay and get the job done.

You alarm unit can't supply enough ground ampage.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: circus boy
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 6:45 PM
you need ground through a relay with a 1000 ohm resister for unlock,just did one last week




Posted By: extreme1
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 6:48 PM
IF your alarm is just negative output, no worries, I just use the direct outputs. If you have a unit that does both + and - you have to use relays.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: February 04, 2005 at 8:13 PM
Shaugn, I think I see what he is talking about here. The issue with the relays is simple. Some alarms do not have built in relays and they just don't have enough current to drive the lock and unlock properly. This is where the relays come in. Now if the unit does have built in relays (like most keyless entry only units do), then the additional relays are not necessary. Without diving into it, the resistor on the unlock does sound right IIRC.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: jaurora
Date Posted: February 07, 2005 at 6:57 AM

Well,

The unit I installed had power transistor outputs. I used relays just incase and they worked fine. I dont know if it would of worked the other way or not. I used this unit plenty of times and just the (-) output on the lock and unlock wires work fine. It is just that the sheets said to use relays. So rater than doing things twice I just used realys and no issues came about.

When in doubt use relays!!!! Im going to stick with that theory for now on! Thanks all for your comments and suggestions.



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MECP certified (If it really means anything)
Jeremy




Posted By: johnnydi77
Date Posted: February 11, 2005 at 8:34 PM
you can also use WHITE/ purple for negative lock and blue/green for negative unlock and should be found in the drivers door harness. These wires will also arm and disarm the factory security.

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John J. DiStefano Jr.





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