RS on 2003 F250 Diesel
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50031
Printed Date: October 31, 2024 at 6:22 PM
Topic: RS on 2003 F250 Diesel
Posted By: D.Kahler
Subject: RS on 2003 F250 Diesel
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 4:13 PM
Need the wire diagram for 2003 Ford Diesel. I searched other posts and it looks like there is some trouble with these trucks with the tach and glow plugs. I have done installs on Dodge diesels where you tap off of the wait to start light, can I do the same for Ford?
Replies:
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 4:25 PM
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 5:33 PM
The wait to start can be found at the glow plug relay....this truck is easy. Dont let em scare ya. The glow plug relay is under the hood, on the fire wall pass side. silver box with a green plug. The wire to use is GREEN / WHITEPOS(+) while the plugs are heeting up. The tach is in a factory bundle under the dash drivers side. To the left of the column. A bunch of wires that are tied together, and sealed on the end....youll see. The wire needed is GREEN / WHITE. -------------
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 13, 2005 at 7:05 PM
Thanks. One more question. The wire table lists 3 acc wires. Do I need all of them? The truck only has one ignition wire so I can use the 2nd ignition wire from the RS for one acc, and I'd have to add a relay for the other. Unless it's supposed to say gray / YELLOW or RED / black.
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 16, 2005 at 7:38 PM
Use the gray / YELLOW for accs. 1 And the RED / black for accs. 2 The blue/lt.green not needed -------------
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 19, 2005 at 5:39 PM
Need some more help. I can't find the glow plug relay. I don't see anything close to a silver box on the firewall. This is the 6.0 diesel. I also seem to have screwed up the instrument cluster. When I put the key in I don't get the warning buzzer and when I turn the key to the on position only half of the lights come on. I get the right side lights for ABS, check engine, but don't get the left side where the glow plug and fuel lights are. It also starts and runs, but it doesn't seem to be registering the fuel level, oil pressure, or temperature. Someone please help!!!
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 19, 2005 at 9:10 PM
I wanted to update my situation. I haven't figured out were I'm losing power. I don't have power to the windows, interior lights, or door buzzer. I have checked all the fuses I could find and they are all good. I get some lights on the dash, but most aren't coming on and none of the gauges work. The truck starts and runs fine. Its seems like I blew a fuse or a fusible link that was providing the power to all this stuff, but I'm afraid I might have damaged the PCM or something, but then I wouldn't expect the truck to start. I'd really appreciate any help. Thanks.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 7:53 AM
Did you try removing the plugs going to the instrument cluster and reseating them. I had that problem with my girlfriend's Pontiac Sunbird when I removed the cluster to replace some bulbs. The connections were a flexible circuit board material and if it's not seated just right some things will work and others will not. I thought it was a pretty lousy design. I don't know if the newer trucks are designed like that but it's worth trying. It could just be a poor connection. If it's related to fuses, have you tried checking the fuses under the hood? Maybe there are some there that you missed in with the engine relays.
Good Luck, Steve
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 8:55 AM
Thanks Steve, I thought that too and searched high and low for more fuses but couldn't find anymore. Part of the problem is that the owners manual is a little vague on the fuses and their location, in fact it doesn't even mention any under the hood. I went and bought the Haynes manual, but they only had the one for up to 2002 so I don't know how accurate it is. I need to get some good schematics for the 03 and then I hope to find my problem.
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 6:11 PM
It sounds to me like you blew fuse #35 in the underdash fusebox it is a 10amp Mini fuse, make sure you actually change the fuse and not just check it. The fuse locations and numbers should be written on the front of the cover. I own an '04 F350, so it should be the same. I went-out and pulled that fuse and it did EXACTLY what you described. This is the fuse that runs the domelight, the RPM and Speedo, and half the lights in the instrument cluster (left side.) As for the GPCM, it is not on the passenger side firewall, it is actually attached to the engine on the passenger side near the front. Let me know if this helped. Oh, by the way. If this is the problem fuse, when the RPM and Speedo come back on line when you turn the ignition on they are going to peg to the right, stay there for a couple of seconds, and then return to the left. This is normal don't crap yourself (like I almost did.)
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 10:59 AM
Knucklehead, This was a frustrating problem and thank God I was able to fix it yesterday and return the truck to the customer. As for fuse #35, I had checked it by pulling it and ohming it out, then by checking for +12 on each side while it was inserted and everything looked fine. Then I took another good 10A fuse and swapped it and the thing still wouldn't work. By Saturday night I was desperate and found a website, https://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann, and emailed him with my problem. He was very helpful and sent me some of the schematics for the instrument cluster, which I believed was the problem. The obvious next thing to check was the power to the instrument cluster at the connector, so I remove the instrument cluster and checked it. It was good, and I again was stumped. After thinking for a few minutes, I put it back together. Then I went to check something else and when I put the key in, miraculously, it came back on. I have no clue what caused it or what fixed it, I'm just happy its fixed. I did find the GPCM by tracing the wires from the battery, it is mounted to the pass side valve cover, like you said, but I couldn't find a wire that was hot and then turned off for the wait to start light. I also couldn't find the VSM, which is where Directtech says to find the lock wires. I looked to the right of the acc pedal above the tranny hump, but there is nothing there. I even pulled that half of the underside dash apart and still didn't see any module. I then traced the wires coming from the door into the kick panel and along the rail. The colors at the switch matched the wire table, so I proceded to connect them using the 5wire method. This didn't work and after probing the wire I am confused. Normally you cut the wire, in this case the lock wire, and probe both ends, one should be grounded through the switch and the other should be open at the actuator. In this case both ends showed ground and when I pushed the lock switch neither end showed +12, but if I pushed the unlock switch the end I thought went to the motor went +12. I probed the wires at the switch and they act correctly. How and where did you make the lock connections? On another topic, the guy asked if I would try to find and drain the water seperator. He claims that he can't find it and that his mechanic can't find it either. I never got to look for it, with my other issues, but do you know where it is? I can make some extra $ if I fix it for him. Thanks.
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 11:42 AM
First off, don't feel bad, you're not the first to encounter a "ghost in the machine" on these trucks.
Now I'll see if I can answer the rest of the questions.
"but I couldn't find a wire that was hot and then turned off for the wait to start light."
This is because the gr/wh wire in the green plug on the GPCM is a signal wire from PCM to the GPCM simply telling the GPCM to turn on. It has nothing to with the wait-to-start light. It is designed to have a signal length of 30-40 seconds, which if you use this wire will probably be long enough for the glow plugs to have done their job. Most of us just use a timer relay, since we don't have to run another wire to the engine. There is no wire that can be used that will corespond with the light going off.
"I also couldn't find the VSM . . . How and where did you make the lock connections?"
If the vehicle has RKE the VSM will be there. It may be hidden behind white padding. If the customer has the factory FOB you can always use the "head under dash" method. When you cycle the doors open and closed with the FOB you will definately hear the relays clicking, they are loud. If not the 5wire relay method should work. For non-RKE, DEI says to use the pink / YELLOW for lock and pink/lt.green for unlock. This is true, but DEI also says they are reverse polarity, and if memory serve's me, they are not. Either way use this test https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/doorlocks.asp just to make sure.
If the truck does have RKE the WHITE/ red for lock and BLACK/ white for unlock will work. Regardless of the door lock type, you can pick these wire's up in the drivers side kick panel or just pull the door jamb boot back and find them there.
"the guy asked if I would try to find and drain the water seperator."
This is the HFCM (Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module). It is located underneath the truck along the inside of the frame rail on the driver's side just to the rear of the shackle.
I hope all this helped. If not, I'll pretty much be my computer all day today, so just post again.
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 12:52 PM
Thanks for the help. I was just checking my email and the Dieselman sent me the schematics for both the glow plugs and doors. Now I understand the GPCM. The PCM sends all the gauge info on a central data bus and theres no way to tap into that. The crimestopper units that I install have a timer built in for the glow plugs, but thats an open loop method and I prefer to have the feedback from the light, but oh well. The truck doesn't have RKE, which explains why I can't find the VSM. The schematic looks like it is definitely reverse polarity, ground at rest and hot when switched. I didn't blow any fuses, so I'm sure I made the connections right. Perhaps I just have a bad relay module. I've been using the DEI 555L. I'll have to try it again this weekend and see. I didn't get to look for the HFCM, but what you stated is pretty much what I remember reading in the manual. Why he can't find it is beyond me, but if he wants to pay me for something that sound so simple I won't complain.
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 1:06 PM
I'm not positive, but off the top of my head isn't the 555L a Passlock bypass module? If the truck you're going to drain the HFCM on is a 4x4 and not lifted, it is not going to be fun. The front driveshaft blocks the 6mm hex drain bolt. If it's a 2wd you should be okay. Either way I hope you like the smell of diesel, you'll be wearing it for a while. It's a messy job.
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 1:38 PM
knucklehead wrote:
I'm not positive, but off the top of my head isn't the 555L a Passlock bypass module? If the truck you're going to drain the HFCM on is a 4x4 and not lifted, it is not going to be fun. The front driveshaft blocks the 6mm hex drain bolt. If it's a 2wd you should be okay. Either way I hope you like the smell of diesel, you'll be wearing it for a while. It's a messy job.
Your right, I meant the 451M. I had 555l on my brain because I just ordered one of those for my next job. Is it that messy to just drain the water off? The truck is the 4x4, and I think factory height which is pretty high to begin with. Do you think I should loosen or remove the front shaft first?
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 2:03 PM
Just out of curiosity, why do they want there HFCM drained? Is the water-in-fuel light on in the dash? Or do they just feels it's time? Anyway, you shouldn't have to loosen the front driveshaft. You should be able to fit an "L" shaped 6mm hex wrench in there and be just fine. Unfortunately it needs to drain for 15-20 seconds (the manual says 25, but that's a bit excessive,)and it has a nasty little habit of splashing. You'll be draining-out fuel with any water that may be there. What you can do is get an empty 2liter soda bottle and carve it to fit in the area and that helps. It also makes it easier to dispose of the diesel if there is no water in it. You just dump it back in the tank. Depending on the climate and the place they buy their diesel, it's rare for water to accumalate in the filter.
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 2:14 PM
The light is on in the dash, and he said it had been for some time. He said that the first time it came on he took it to the dealer and was pissed at how much they charged him. Then when it came on again he tried to do himself and couldn't find it. Then found a mechanic friend and he couldn't find it either. Then when I picked up his truck to install the RS and asked about it he told me the whole story and said that if I could get the light off he would pay me extra for it. Don't know where he gets his fuel from, but if I do find water in there I'll recommend he find a new gas station. If there's no water in there, then he'll have to get the dealer to correct it. If I remember right, the manual also mentioned replacing the filter at the HFCM and the filter on the block. Do you think I should change the filter too?
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 2:37 PM
Changing the filters is more of a mileage based decision. I don't have the manual near me, but I think it is every 15k miles or so. On the other hand if he's buying fuel from a place that let's water in the fuel it might be wise to change them anyway. The water itself isn't a problem for the filters, it's the debris that might be in there with it. It's usually best to buy diesel from a place that moves a large amount, truckstops, etc. Most of these places have larger storage tanks and keep the pick-up tube from the main tank well above the tank bottom to keep from sucking-up water and debris, and also have filters on the side of the pump. The smaller stations don't have that luxury or it's not worth their while. Besides if he'll pay you nicely for it why not make a few extra bucks? It's not a hard job, but like I said, it can be messy and smelling like diesel fuel sucks. Ironically, I own a diesel and work for a trucking company and I can't stand the smell of diesel fuel.
Posted By: D.Kahler
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 2:46 PM
Truck only has 8500 miles so I'll probably pass on the filters, unless what I drain out is really dirty looking. Thanks for your help.
Posted By: knucklehead
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 2:58 PM
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