2000 4 Runner electrical problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50516
Printed Date: May 19, 2024 at 11:42 AM
Topic: 2000 4 Runner electrical problems
Posted By: jcriii
Subject: 2000 4 Runner electrical problems
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 8:40 PM
I have a 2000 4 Runner that I purchased used several months ago. When I purchased it it had an aftermarket alarm installed that I did not like. I attempted to remove the alarm system. I removed all of the wires associated with the alarm, but if I removed the alarm module itself the car would not start. If I plugged the alarm module in, with all output wires removed the car would behave as if it did not have the alarm. I could hear the alram module cliking after I turned the car off. Essentially the alarm was trying to lock the doors and arm itself, but with all the output wire detached it effectivly did nothing. I was a bit confused, but had essentially accomplished what I set out to and left the alarm module installed with the output wires detached. Two months later I am having electrical problems that I believe are related. If the car sits overnight the battery voltage drops to about 12.5. At 12.5 volts the car will sometimes start and sometimes you just hear the solenoid clicking. If the battery is removed from the car the battery voltage remains at 12.8v overnight. I suspect the partialy installed alarm is causing the voltage drain. My questions are:
Why if the alarm is completly removed does the car not start?
Was a jumper removed when the alarm was installed that I need to replace?
how do I determine if the alarm is causing The voltage drain or if it is comming from elsewhere?
Thanks for your help
Jimmy
Replies:
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: February 20, 2005 at 9:13 PM
-its suppose to start, unless the unit has starter-kill relay and you didnt attach the 2 ends together after you uninstall the relay.
| STARTER|GREEN/ black or black|+ |ignition harness |
-what jumper?
-its possible that the alarm may cause it to drain due to unproper hookup of starterkill relay.
like bok said, 12.5 is not low....
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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: jcriii
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 12:42 PM
The battery is brand new. It was the first thing I replaced. I now believe the old battery was fine. In regard to 12.5 volts, fully charged a battery should have 12.8 volts. at about 12.4 volts the battery is considered half dead. It is not recomended to drain a battery below 50% capacity. Although 12.5 is OK, a battery should not drain to 12.5 as quickly as mine does. Removed from the car the battery remains at 12.8 volts for several days as it should. I will check the battery cables, visually they look good, but I will test resistance across them to be sure. I will also try to find the starter kill relay and reconnect to see if I can't remove the alarm completely. Appreciate all of your help. I will let you know what I find. Thanks Jimmy
Posted By: jcriii
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 5:53 PM
BobK, Great idea. I will give the amp meter, fuse suggestion a try tonight. I am a little embarresed I have not already tried that. Thanks! Jimmy
Posted By: mito57
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 11:38 AM
Does it crank and does not start, or it doesn't even crank? If you start it and after that you remove the brain does the engine stop or it keeps running?
Posted By: jcriii
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 1:01 PM
It won't crank without the brain. I have not tried to start it and remove the brain. I have not finished my trouble shooting, but the current drain is on the same circuit as the alarm. Without a shop manual it is a little hard for me to figure out what else is on each circuit that might be drawing current. Battery cables seam fine to me. I removed all the wires cleaned and reinstalled. Cleaning was easy as they really were not dirty. No signs of corrosion, and resistance across the wires was negligable. As I write this I realize I did not inspect the ground strap, but as clean as the rest of the engine compartment is I doubt there is a problem there. Thanks again, Jimmy
Posted By: mito57
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 1:17 PM
That means you have a start -kill relay somewhere installed. You need to locate it, remove it ant put the starter cable ends together again. Try to follow the brain wires. One or more of them should end in a relay. One of these relays must have the 30 and 87 terminals connected to the starter wire (one to switch side and the other to the starter side). Just put these to ends together (I recommend to solder it and use some shrinking tube to insulate). You should be able to remove the brain after doing this. Hope this helps.
Posted By: jcriii
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 5:07 PM
I will do that tonight. I have all the heat shrink etc. already. Thanks
Posted By: jcriii
Date Posted: February 24, 2005 at 10:55 AM
OK, The Alarm and starter kill relay are removed. The 4 Runner now behaves properly in that respect.. No noticable drain on the battery overnight, so I presume the alarm/relay were causing the battery drain problem. With ~20 starts last night the vehicle mysteriously failed to start once. It started to turn over, but could not overcome the engine compression. Upon immediatly trying again it turned over strongly and started. Not sure what that is all about. I am going to drive it a few days and see if that repeats. The subject of this forum is Security, and you successfully helped me eliminate the problem I was having with a faulty alarm system. I don't completly understand how the alarm could cause a battery drain, but I will accept that it did and move on. Thankyou, Thankyou, Thankyou. This is a great forum, glad I found it! Jimmy
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