Car won’t start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=51982
Printed Date: October 31, 2024 at 6:30 PM
Topic: Car won’t start
Posted By: tk34
Subject: Car won’t start
Date Posted: March 16, 2005 at 2:06 AM
Today, I finished installing autopage rs850, programmed a few of the features different then factory sets, then started testing following instructions in the manual. The remote start worked. Then went for testing the shock sensor. Got into valet mode, and for some reason I couldn't get out of it this time. I read through the whole manual and tried but wouldn't get out. So I thought I would start the car and park it inside (was working outside) and research this, but when i cranked the key, the starter disable kicked in. Now I can't start the car at all with the remote or the key. Well, i looked through some pages here and thought I found my mistake. In the manual it said to hook pin 85 of the relay to ignition switch, it didn't specify which wire, and the diagram pointed the wire leading to switch where it said "ON" position so I assumed it was to the ignition wire. Well now that I look at the diagrams here I think it should be hooked up to constant 12v+ wire instead, so I went back down and did that, but still no starting and still stuck in valet mode. Everytime I hold the valet key for more then 2 secs it just simply pages my remote. Does anybody have an idea what is going on with my alarm, it's my first time doing this and I knew it was to good to be true for me to finish without any problems. Any bit of help at all would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 16, 2005 at 2:12 AM
Forgot to add that my car is 2003 corolla, auto. Is there also a way to totally reset the alarm brain and all the remotes? I would like to start back from scratch when all this gets cleared. Thanks again
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 16, 2005 at 10:49 PM
There are 2 start disable wires in my alarm. One ground output when armed, and one grounded output when disarmed. I only hooked up the grounded armed. It said first to cut starter wire, pin 86 of the relay to alarm, pin 87 blank, pin87a to starter, pin 30 to starter wire from igntion harness(the one i cut), and 85 to "igntion switch" which is my question mark. What wire should this hook up to? I initially had it at ignition wire and screwed things up, then I tried putting it to 12v after but still nothing. I also didn't hook up one of the programmable output wires which was for 2 step unlock (which I don't have), factory security disarm signal (which I don't have) and start status (shock sensor bypass) output which I didn't know where to hook up to. Could this be causing problem at all? Where do I hook it up to, if i need to that is? Please help!!!
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: March 16, 2005 at 11:27 PM
tk34]< wrote:
>Today, I finished installing autopage rs850, programmed a few of the features different then factory sets, then started testing following instructions in the manual. The remote start worked.
You say the remote start worked once. Concentrate on what you did after that. What happens now when you turn the key or try to remote start? It may sound silly but, perhaps you ran your battery dead. Make sure it shows 12 or more volts and try again.
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 17, 2005 at 1:51 AM
Checked the battery it was at 12.46 volts should be good i think, I also checked the fuses to the alarm all good too. After I finished testing the start timer with the remote I believe I went into test mode for the hood/trunk pin/door and shock sensor so I got into start feature 2 programming mode as the manual stated. But couldn't get out, that's as far as I know. And then I tried to start with key and it wouldn't work. I have since totally disconnected the start disable relay because the manual said this is optional, still no luck. Does anybody know what more I can do? All my alarm will do is lock and unlock, it won't even arm or disarmed (stuck in disarmed). I wish there was some sort of way I could just reset everything, since I took that relay out I'm thinking everything would be ok.
Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 17, 2005 at 10:52 AM
2003 Corolla has no immoblizer bypass, so we can eliminatd that as the cause.
Charge up your battery first as suggested by boomer_106.
Connect the starter wire back together the way it was.
Connect the ignition wire back the way is was orginallly.
Check you shifting gear and make sure it is fully in PARK.
UNPLUG the alarm/starter unit only. Don't remove the wire that you have already connect to the car. It would not affect the car in anyway.
Try that first and post your result.
------------- Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 18, 2005 at 2:39 AM
It was a blown fuse!!! I checked voltage on the starter wire during cranking and got nothing. So I found the fuse for it, and sure enough it was blown. Must've been caused by the start disable relay I hooked up wrong. I disconnected the relay and replaced the fuse, it starts fine now. My question now is what wire do I hook up to pin 85 of the start disable relay (if I were to hook up pin 86 to alarm, pin 87 to starter, pin 30 to start wire from ignition harness)? Thanks for all your help I'm so glad my car starts now and was only a blown fuse, such a relief!!
Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 18, 2005 at 8:02 AM
------------- Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 18, 2005 at 5:21 PM
Sorry, I just want to clear possible uncertainties. The diode on my relay harness is flipped around (marking on diode is closer to pin 85 side), it has 85 connected to "??", 86 connected to the alarm, 87a is connected to the starter and 30 connected to the starter wire from ignition switch. I'm guessing this is ok, everything is just switched around the other way. In the diagram above it says "to ign. 12v+". Is that the constant 12v+ wire? Or is that the actual ignition wire? Also, unfortunately my problems aren't over yet. This morning I went to start the car, and nothing. Same fuse blew, I no longer have the start disable relay in and everything is connect how it should be without it. I'm thinking back, both times this happend was after I triggered the alarm. There is wire from my alarm going to my starter wire. Can somebody tell me what this wire is for? Could this be a more primitive start disable that blows the starter fuse if an attempt is made to start the car after alarm is triggered? I'm not entirely sure what this wire does, all it says is "starter output" and it warns me about making sure it is connected before the neutral safety switch and after start disable relay when used. Please excuse all my newbie questions, with this being my first time I'm sort of reluctant to move on without a basic understanding of how this works and why my starter fuse already blew twice. Any help is much appreciated!!
Posted By: nava94
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 12:58 PM
hook that to the ignition wire. this wire is at the harness coming from the ignition cylinder were you put your key to start the car. The wire when you test it will not show voltage (0). When you put your key in the ignition then flip it to the acc. position then start the car it will show 12volts. when you start the car the voltage should change just a bit (9.5)(10)volts. that's the ignition wire.
Posted By: radkonn
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 2:34 PM
The starter output wire is to start your car when it is remote started. Don't worry about hooking it up in series with the neutral safety switch. You can use H10/3 BLACK/ white wire from 20 pin connector this can go to your neutral switch or a toggle switch.
Here is how you can hook up your starter disable relay for your car.
86 H10/20 (orange) wire from alarm goes to white wire relay.
85 red wire from relay goes to BLACK/ White wire at ignition harness in your corolla. You don't want to use a constant 12v sourse for your starter disable relay because it will drain you battery everytime you arm your alarm. If you hook it up to the ignition 12v like I suggest. the relay will only pull in if someone tries to start your car with the alarm armed.
30 Yellow wire from relay goes to red wire ignition harness (you have to cut the red wire at ignition harness) hook up the yellow wire to the red wire at ignition harness. (side that goes to the ignition switch)
87a Purple wire from your relay goes to the other side of the red starter wire you cut in your harness (going to start solenoid) AND your H1/1 (violet) wire from your alarm.
I hope this helps.
Also, to get out of test mode while you are testing your door triggers and shock sensor just press the lock button. To reset the alarm to factory settings. Turn your ignition on and off 3 times and stay in the off position. Press the valet switch 12 times and HOLD it on the 12th press. You will hear six chirps with one long chirp. Press and hold the lock and trunk button and the same time for six seconds. You will hear six chirps and three longs chirps. You have now reset A, B, and C it the programming. Press the trunk button and then hold the lock and trunk button at the same time for six seconds to reset your D and E programming.
I didn't read all the replies, so this info may not be necessary.
Posted By: radkonn
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 4:36 PM
Also, if you connect your starter output wire to your factory neutral switch like in the diagram and the switch is a negative switch, it wil cause a direct short and blow the fuse. You should wire it like I suggested. Your car more than likely won't start in gear, unless you have a manual transmission. Therefore, you can just hook up a toggle switch, or if your worried about it, hook up the wire for the toggle switch to the side of the neutral saftey switch that shows ground when in neutral. You can also do both, but I wouldn't wire like the diagram states.
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 10:04 PM
Thanks, I couldn't get that to work was because the ignition cylinder couldn't sense which position the key was in I think because of the blown fuse. As soon as I replaced the fuse I tried again and it came out of test mode. The BLACK/ white wire for remote start enable toggle switch input and neutral safety switch input is H5/3 on my alarm. I currently have this wire connected to ground with a toggle switch, so I can enable/disable remote start. Should I take it off ground and connect it to the wire going to the starter behind H1/1(starter output) wire? I haven't been able to actually locate the neutral safety switch I just assumed it came somewhere before the starter along the red wire from the ignition harness. Also I want to add, the second time the fuse blew, I could remote start, just not key start, and when I pressed the brake with the key in, it would shut off the car. So it couldn't sense which key position I was in I think. I just called it the starter fuse I don't know what it's called, it seems to be connected to other things, I still received 12v+ from the constant wires, but none at the starter wire during crank, yet I could crank the engine with my remote, weird.......
Posted By: radkonn
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 10:55 PM
The reason you could start it using the remote start and not the key is because the fuse probably blew to the starter. The starter wire will still get 12v when you remote start it because you are using an alternative power source to power your alarm, or I should say an alternative fuse is hooked up to that lead. If you have an automatic, I don't think your car will start out of gear. You probably can't even remove the key while the vehicle is in gear, so you can just leave it on the toggle switch and don't worry about the neutral switch (you should test the vehicle and see if it will start in gear). The car is suppose to shut off when you hit the brake while remote started; it is a safety feature. Don't do what you suggested about moving the wire to H1/1; I would just leave it on the toggle. Your H5/3 wire needs to see ground for you to be able to remote start the vehicle, and you H1/1 wire sends a +12 volts during remote start. Did you wire the starter disable back in like I suggested?
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 19, 2005 at 11:32 PM
I am about to, but just wanted to make sure where the h5/3 wire was supposed to go before I did. So that stays where it is then, and I just install the relay how you said. I still don't understand why the fuse blew though, should it be ok after I put the relay back?
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: March 20, 2005 at 12:05 PM
You car has two constant wires going to the ignition switch. A White wire fused at 25 amps and a black wire fused at 15 amps. If you put one of the high current input wires from the remote start to the black wire you will blow the fuse fairly often.
I'm not familiar with the Autopage 850. How many wires from it get hooked up to constant power and what are the fuse ratings on each?
Posted By: tk34
Date Posted: March 20, 2005 at 7:51 PM
I have 3 wires going to the white 25A wire from the alarm with 20A, 20A, and 3A fuse. To the black wire I have power lock relays and trunk release relay hooked up. I JUST discovered a mistake in my wiring for the power lock relays so that just might be it!! Should it be ok to connect the relays to the black constant wire? And should I fuse any of the wires from my relays? Getting kind off the topic of my alarm now, but for the locks, I've added actuators and have wired it up to the relays. Is there a way to add a master switch to it? I currently have the relays for power locks connected like this: lock relay: 30-actuator, 85-alarm, 86 and 87-constant 12v(black wire), and 87a-ground unlock relay: 30-actuator, 86-alarm, 85 and 87 constant 12v(black wire), and 87a-ground Thanks, I've tackled a big project, with the remote start alarm, power locks, and power trunk release and I am just about done, just want to make sure everything is done right. Thanks again!
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