Viper 791xv, 2003 Mazda 6

i'm installing a viper 791xv on a 2003 Mazda 6 V6 mtx. I need to bypass my clutch for remote start. How do I do this? I have been told I need a relay, but I've never used one before. How do you wire a relay once you get it and what relay do I need?

Thanks!

I hope you don't run my kid over, when you start your car IN GEAR..........

The clutch wire is WHITE/ blue NEG(-) start pulse.....at the switch

Good luck

Lubuspl wrote:

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you would connect you starter wire from the alarm sirectly to the starter by the engine

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You still need to bypass the clutch to activate the starter. Use a relay or wire the ground when running wire from the remote starter directly to the (-) clutch activation wire. If your using the GOWR wire to activate a bypass module, make sure you diode isolate the wires from each other to prevent possible feedback and problems.

Powermyster.....you got a 60 inch plasma HuH...?  LoL

Its worth more than the car.

Try:

https://www.wiringinstructions.com/217.htm

I also use:

Common sense physics...  Your wire harness is absorbing too much of the shock before it gets to your sensor.

Screw that thing TIGHT into the inside firewall.  I'd suggest central location, perhaps just to the right of the gas pedal.  You want to mount it to the frame or some part of the body that is FIRM. 

Think of it like this:  If you WANT vibration to travel from the point of impact to the sensor, you want a SOLID surface from the point of impact to the sensor.  You don't want to put a "shock absorbor" between the point of impact and your sensor.

If you wanted to feel every bump in the road you would remove your struts and springs on your car that absorb the bumps and shock from the road. 

In your rear end's case, you WANT shock absorbtion to keep your butt from getting numb.

In your sensor's case, you DO NOT WANT shock absorbtion - you want your sensor to get all the shock it can to increase sensitivity and than you can adjust the sensitivity DOWN from there if need be with the controls on the sensor.

No you forgot to tell us about your seats.Cheap factory or leather?WHAT no tv's, no spoiler, no body kit. try relocating the shock. lower the sense and arm the alarm then slightly tap the shock if it still goes off with no warn away you have a bad shock and to the lite green wire read your manual it's for extra sensors.

Can you post a digital pic of the sensor.  I'm thinking that you might have been screwed on the sensor.  Did you buy it on flea-bay?  (just kidding, I buy lots of stuff from that slum -   :).

Seriously though, to me, it doesn't sound like a TWO stage sensor.  You have the right idea mounting it to something solid.  I'd recommend getting rid of the lock ties though.  Screw it in TIGHT as possible (without stripping) to the inside firewall of the car, down by the gas pedal (but out of the way).  This should pick up most shock.  If it's a single stage sensor, then set it as sensitive as possible and then test it over and over, and slowly adjust it back to where you want it.  I always don't mind having a few days or nights of falsing and adjust mine a little each day until I achieve the desired result.  I'd rather have mine a little too sensitive and catch a criminal in the act, than have it not be sensative enough.  We had someone do $1,200 damage to the passenger side handle of our car without the alarm going off.  This is why I went out and bought a Clifford AvantGuard 5.  Extremely sensitive Omnisensor with that.  It will pick up me lightly flicking the back bumper and the sensor is screwed into the firewall above the gas pedel with FOUR self tapping screws.  It picks up everything.  It started lightly raining out last night and my warn away buzzer kept growling.  Guess I'll have to adjust the sensitivity down a bit.  But it's great having such a sensitive shock sensor that I can make as sensitive as I want.

Good LUCK!

This is a dual stage sensor with a wire that can be wired for dual stage or single stage full trigger, but by default is setup/configured for single stage (full alert only) - the green wire (warn away) loops back into to contact the blue full alert wire.

You need to cut the green loop that is located near the sensor end of the connection wire (so that it does NOT loop back into the blue side of the wire harness - just cut the loop is half, near the center) and connect the cut end to the loose green wire. 

The blue wire should be your full trigger alert.  The green wire (that currently connects to the blue wire at the sensor end of the connection wire harness) is triggering full trigger when it senses warn away shock.  By cutting/disconnecting this green wire from the blue wire and hooking it up the the green wire, you should have dual stage functionality.  You will then need to remount your shock sensor to a hard, SOLID surface (using screws is highly recommended) and retest and adjust your sensor's adjustment screw.

Note: I'd recommend cutting the looped green wire in the center so that if you want/need to reconnect it for any reason, you'll have at least a little wire to work with, and can always solder an extention on if need be.

Good luck!

if that green wire is just in with the blue then if it needed to be reconected he could just splice into the blue right? anyways that doesn't matter...

are these common, i have never seen one with the first zone tied into the second like that, that's really strange to me.. but i d k, maybe it's older or something, have you seen these a lot bret?

I have not seen shock sensors that ship with these wires recently.  This type of jumpered wire is "pictured" on several DEI install manuals for audio and tilt sensors where two sensors share a single port plug, but you sacrifice two stage sensor to add the second sensor, then BOTH function as single stage, instant trigger sensors.  See following 506T manual as example:

https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N506T.pdf

In other words, you have a two stage shock sensor that plugs directly into your alarm, but you want to add an audio/glass break sensor.  You can toss the dual stage shock sense wire and use the wire that comes with the audio sensor that functions as a Y adapter and plug both the shock sensor AND the audio/glass sensor into the alarm brain in the same port.  At that point, both shock and audio sensors function as single stage/instant trigger sensors.

I don't think this is common and I don't think that this is the default shock sensor for the viper high end alarms.  This is why I was thinking that he got screwed on the sensor and someone slipped an older sensor (and sensor connection cable) into the box with his Viper alarm.  However, I'm not 100% sure on that.

You'll get the most sensitivity from the sensor if you mount it to a solid part of the firewall (with screws as TIGHT as you can get them - without stripping the holes out).

After I do this, I'll turn the sensitivity all the way up and then test and adjust the sensitivity down to reduce falsing.

A solid surface is going to, BY FAR, give you much greater sensitivity throughout the car.

Your sensor, by default, is wired as a single stage ONLY shock sensor.  YOu have to cut the green loop at the sensor end of the harness and wire pin 4 into the loose green wire that comes out of the alarm brain end of the harness to get dual stage functionality.

also, it is much easier if you stick to one post like bobk said.  You have several people trying to help you, but you're getting your notes scattered throughout the forum.  I'd recommend that you post and try to be patient while people check out what you've posted and take time to reply with reliable information that will help you.

I get pretty impatient myself waiting for an answer that I'd love to have RIGHT NOW on this forum, but understand that everyone is not on 24/7. 

Hope all goes well!

Try reading page 33 of the installation manual. It tells you what the green wire is for.

You can find the manual here

https://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/791xvinstall.pdf

This are pretty common I installed a Hornet alarm/starter combo last weekend and  it came with the same sensor . I didn't use the green wire or cut the loop and both the warning and the trigger work.

 In your case the sensor might be bad, but try mounting it to the steering column and see if that helps. Also make sure the zip ties(this things don't have holes for screws so you have to use ties) are tight

be careful and open up your siren, unscrew the pc board from the magnet, you will see the six tones labeled numbers 1-6 on the board use something sharp and cut the tones you dont want remember #1 is tone one # tone 2 and so on. got questions just ask. dont forget that when you are pulling the magnet assembly out you have to give some slack on the wiring that comes out of the back. the positive and negative wires of the siren.

under the dash, but try not to block it, just as close to some place sound can get through,,,

as far as the 530 (windows),, i have put a couple in, i like them, it's hard on older ones sometimes to get them to go all the way, but i think it's a really nice option.. it really tricks people out when they see you using them

the only thing that sucks is if your output (third channel or whatever) has a delay on it,, like if you have to hold down the button for 3 seconds to get the output to go, then it makes it a pain to auto start your car or arm it, and leave the windows down, it works best when it's used with dei stuff i guess... but that's how most products are..

I have two 530Ts installed in my car.  If you need help, feel freet to PM me and I'll give you email address.  It is pretty straight forward though.  I wired both mine in the driver's kick panel and ran all the wires in and wired at the driver's door switch.  It's great because I have full auto up/down on the driver's door switches, but when my kids sit in the back and want to just lower their window a little bit, their switches on the back doors function normal (without full auto up/down on the windows).

Good luck!