97 Prelude, Autopage
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=55428
Printed Date: May 23, 2024 at 5:02 AM
Topic: 97 Prelude, Autopage
Posted By: cleanlude
Subject: 97 Prelude, Autopage
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 2:34 PM
Hey guys, It's my first time, so be gentle ;). I want to self-install my Autopage RF-520LCD in my 1997 Honda Prelude SH. I've never done anything other than install amplifiers and subs in cars... Most of the wires seem simple enough, I'm just wondering HOW do i make the connections to the existing wires? Do you use the little snap-on connectors that cut through the insulation and contact the lead... or what... I do not understand at all how to wire the door locks. My alarm has a "6-pin door lock connector with a bunch of wires that I don't know where they connect to... What kind of door lock setup does the Prelude use? Sorry for being such a dumb***.. Dumb ***** need to learn too ;) Jeff
Replies:
Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 5:42 PM
At our shop we just strip the wire, make an eye, insert and trist. Then tape it off and put a zip tie on the wire. It keeps the tape on there and keeps the connection from falling out at all.
It is just as good of a connection as solder IMO
Posted By: dare_ds69
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 5:42 PM
 | Interface Module: | Category:
| Required:
Yes | Type:
Transponder | | Part #: 555D, 556U, or 555U |
You have to understand how the power locks works at the brain, it just need negative to make it work, read careful the instructions and you will find out the answer. ------------- how own your mind, control your life.
MECP certified. always use a DMM
Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 5:43 PM
The 520 comes with built in relays for the door locks also. You will need to understand how relays work.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 7:02 PM
The Prelude uses a (-) type system for the door locks so no relays are necessary ( look at wiring datasheet from above ). Personally, I would solder and tape connections as this is solid and will reduce any possibility of potential problems that can arise from loose connections and what not. Best to eliminate potential problems before they happen and this would definitely be one of them if solder is not used.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: May 09, 2005 at 8:44 PM
But it has built in relays on that alarm.
He will have to put 87 to (-) on both the lock and unlock. The DL section has an 87, 87a, and 30 for both lock and unlock so u can do + - and 5 wire.
And it may not be the best form of wiring (strip, eye, and twist), but it is more than acceptable.
Posted By: profuse007
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 12:50 AM
if that unit has what mike mentioned, then theres internal relay built in.
-------------
Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 9:43 AM
Ok, thanks for info... I'll try my best... Hopefully I won't set fire to my car... :) So the DL is a 3-wire negative right? If so, I have a diagram on how to wire it to my alarm in my installation manual... Also, can I skip using the alarm's starter immobilizer and just use the built-in Honda one... (To avoid buying a 791 bypass module, since the Honda one will do the trick for me)... Thanks a lot for the replies, if I have other questions I won't be shy... And when I make a connection, do I need to follow the wire to where it ends, or can I cut into it and solder the 3 ends together or what... Thanks
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 10:00 AM
OhioMike1101 wrote:
But it has built in relays on that alarm.
He will have to put 87 to (-) on both the lock and unlock. The DL section has an 87, 87a, and 30 for both lock and unlock so u can do + - and 5 wire.
And it may not be the best form of wiring (strip, eye, and twist), but it is more than acceptable.
When I say that no relays are necessary for this vehicle, I'm referring to external relays. The internal relay system of the Autopage requires that you still ground a wire and hook up the other two door lock wires to the car. As far as the wire hook up methods it will be up to the installer what he / she will do, but the method that you do is not acceptable at my shop. Too much temperature variations here in Manitoba as well as crappy roads would loosen off the connections in no time. That's why I suggested solder. Not trying to start anything with you OhioMike1101. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 10:19 AM
solder vs. strip-poke-tape
tach vs. tachless
yadda, yadda, yadda.
and while i'm at it, there are other alarms besides DEI...when OhioMilke said "built-in relays", there shouldn't have been any corrections.
other alarms that use built-in relays:
ASTRA7E7
and the Code-Alarm pieces HH Gregg were using for $129 RS
there are other car security companies besides DEI.
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 10:20 AM
Hey, what's the best spot to pass the power wire through the firewall of my 97 Prelude. I see a rubber grommet thing on the passenger side, but it looks sealed quite well and I don't like cutting into it, unless it's my only option. I'd like to avoid drilling if possible aswell... Any info or help appreciated! Thanks
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 10:22 AM
Ok, thanks for info... I'll try my best... Hopefully I won't set fire to my car... :) So the DL is a 3-wire negative right? If so, I have a diagram on how to wire it to my alarm in my installation manual... Also, can I skip using the alarm's starter immobilizer and just use the built-in Honda one... (To avoid buying a 791 bypass module, since the Honda one will do the trick for me)... Thanks a lot for the replies, if I have other questions I won't be shy... And when I make a connection, do I need to follow the wire to where it ends, or can I cut into it and solder the 3 ends together or what... Thanks
Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 11:24 AM
just strip-poke-tape...
and the grommet on the passenger side firewall is fine...i passed 2 0ga wires and multiple 10ga wires through that same grommet on my '97 Accord.
and i'm pretty sure the starter kill on that alarm is cake...just find the starter wire, cut it, and connect the two black wires individually to the cut starter wires...NO RELAYS NEEDED.
it appears that they started immobilizers in '97 on the prelude, so you don't absolutely need to do the starter kill...but it's so easy to do with that alarm...you should go ahead and do it anyway...and you don't need bypass module for a starter kill circuit...bypass modules are for remote starts.
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 10, 2005 at 12:26 PM
JiggaFan wrote:
just strip-poke-tape...
and the grommet on the passenger side firewall is fine...i passed 2 0ga wires and multiple 10ga wires through that same grommet on my '97 Accord.
and i'm pretty sure the starter kill on that alarm is cake...just find the starter wire, cut it, and connect the two black wires individually to the cut starter wires...NO RELAYS NEEDED.
it appears that they started immobilizers in '97 on the prelude, so you don't absolutely need to do the starter kill...but it's so easy to do with that alarm...you should go ahead and do it anyway...and you don't need bypass module for a starter kill circuit...bypass modules are for remote starts.
Thanks very much... That's all I needed to hear. :D Jeff
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 16, 2005 at 2:37 PM
Hey guys... I'm trying to wire my Autopage RF-520LCD alarm into my Prelude. I have everything under control except for the power lock setup thing... My Prelude uses a 3-wire negative door lock setup... Here is the diagram in my install manual for my alarm... The diagram says I only need to tap into 2 wires... The Unlock motor and the Lock motor... 
The following wiring info talks about 4 different wires for the Prelude... | Power Lock | BLACK/ white | - | | | Notes: located in the passengers kick at the multiplex control unit in a blue 14 pin connector. May also be in a gray 2 pin connector taped to another harness with blue tape above the driver kick panel. | | Power Unlock | blue/orange | - | | | Notes: located in the passengers kick at the multiplex control unit in a blue 14 pin connector. May also be in a gray 2 pin connector taped to another harness with blue tape above the driver kick panel. | | Lock Motor | WHITE/ red | | bottom of fuse box | | Unlock Motor | lt.GREEN/ red | | bottom of fuse box |
Do I just ignore the other the first 2 wires and tap into the "lock motor" and "unlock motor" in my fuse box? Just want to make sure before I fry something... ;) Thanks
Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: May 16, 2005 at 11:45 PM
in my '97 Accord, that gray 2-wire harness in the driver's kick was very easy to find, and it was indeed wrapped with one layer of blue tape. as for the alarm, you need to connect those two wires as specified to ground (these are the power input wires for the on board relays, on positive pulse systems, you feed those 2 wires to a +12V source). connect the other two wires of the alarms to the 2 wires in the gray 2-pin harness and your set!
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 3:55 PM
I have another question.... The supposed "door trigger" wire, which I believe I have found in a connector beneath the fuse box in the driver's kick... Well... I disconnected the connector and when I open the driver door with the key in the ignition, it still beeps... and the door ajar light in the dash comes on... Shouldn't that not happen when the connector is disconnected if that is the right wire? Thanks
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 5:02 PM
And yet another question... Can I tap into the parking light wire right behind the dimmer switch? There are a few wires coming out of the dimmer... only one is RED / black, which is the one I need... Can i use this one?
Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 5:16 PM
yeah, gotta use a meter for the wires in question.
stick the red probe in a +12v source (such as the alarm harness), stick the black wire in the wire in question for the door trigger. it should be 0 w/doors closed, 12.xx volts with any/all doors opened.
for the park light wire in question, stick the black probe in a ground source (such as the black wire on the alarm harness or nearest chassis) and poke the red probe through the wire in question (careful not to touch metal with the probe once punched through the wire). turn on the park lights using the switch and your meter should go from 0 to 12.xx volts.
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 5:45 PM
Park lights are positive and trigger is negative... Do I need to change settings on DMM between each... I have never used one before... Do I just set it to DC voltage and that's it?
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 6:15 PM
No, the alarm has a positive output for parking lights... :)... The alarm has 2 different inputs for door triggers, one + and one -.. Thanks for the help... and sorry for being such a noobie... I'm determined to do this myself and learn... Jeff
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 7:59 PM
The voltage should not change in the parking light wire behind the dimmer when I turn the knob... So if nothing changes when I move the knob, that means it is safe to use this wire, without chance of frying my dimmer, correct?
Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: May 17, 2005 at 8:40 PM
lol...installing a fusion F2000 on my accord took me about a week...looks like you're on your way to the 7-day mark as well. can't imagine you'll fry the dimmer. and your multimeter should have a 20V DC setting...that's what i use for testing +/- during an alarm install.
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 18, 2005 at 1:57 PM
Lol I haven't actually started to physically touch anything in the car since yesterday... When I did a little reconnaissance mission for the right wires :). I got hold of a DMM today... And will work on it for an hour or two before I'm off to work again. I'm a busy man...
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 6:47 PM
Hey guys, I just finished making the connections for my Autopage RF-520LCD alarm into my 97 Prelude. Before fastening everything and screwing the siren, I thought I would dry-test the alarm to see if everything works fine. Well everything works except for the power locks... The doors will unlock properly with the remote, except it unlocks them twice.. (2 pulses after the other, i don't know why)... But when you arm the alarm on the remote, you can hear the power-locks mechanism moving, but the doors do not lock... What could I have possibly done wrong... I get 12V in the alarm harness for the power lock and unlock wires, and it dips down when you hit the respective switch... Another things is, for some reason, when the alarm is triggered, the power lock mechanism is pulsing along with the parking lights... The doors aren't locking or unlocking... I just hear the mechanism going off until I disarm it with the remote... I checked and the parking light wire and the power lock wire are not even close to touching... HELP Mods, please do not append this to my old thread, as the other one takes too long to read and I don't get many views or answers. Very appreciated.
Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 6:57 PM
cleanlude wrote:
Mods, please do not append this to my old thread, as the other one takes too long to read and I don't get many views or answers. Very appreciated.
cleanlude, this is about the eigth or ninth time you've started a new thread for this install and you have had well over 300 views already and many replies. Please continue in this thread.
~wirewise~
Posted By: wirewise
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 7:00 PM
Also, it takes much longer to search for your threads to keep up with this install than it does to read this entire thread, so please help us help you.
~wirewise~
Posted By: cleanlude
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 7:14 PM
Wirewise : I'm sorry about that, you have a good point, I will stick to this thread... Now, can you guys troubleshoot with me? Jeff
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