RSX3.5, ’92 Nissan 240sx

Hi folks,

  I have a Clifford RSX3.5 system I will be installing next weekend. I'm just gathering some specefic info I'm not 100% sure on. I'm comfortable with electronics and all, but I'm not sure about wiring up the keyless entry. The Clifford unit has three keyless outputs: +Lock/-UL, -Lock/+UL, and -UL. The pulse durration for lock is 0.8seconds, and 1second for unlock. After playing with the control wire in the door panel(D/S), I think I have the signal figured out that I need: if I connect the two control wires together(one has 12V on it to GND), the doors unlock... if I let them both open, they lock.

The problem I forsee is the Clifford only pulses the locks... if the Clifford pulses ground to unlock them, won't they just lock again once the pulse has ended?? It seemed I had to hold the control connection together for about 1-2seconds, to get a solid unlock. If then I disconnected them, they locked. If I tried to quickly pulse them, the actuators didn't act predictably. When waiting for 1-2seconds, I could hear the timer click on the passenger side: meaning that if I were then to unshort the wires, I would get a definate lock.

I hope this makes sense. I'm just wondering if I should get a latching relay. Or is this why the lock/UL 'feedback' switch in the actuator is kept?

Thanks for reading!

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What year, make, and model vehicle is this going into? 

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the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Oh I'm sorry: it's a 1992 Nissan 240sx, SE trim. After looking over the Nissan specefic lock wiring(this site), I see now that the stock switch will keep the lock/unlock signal latched(thus no need to latch the alarm output). Is this correct?

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bump... anyone verified the schematic on this site for a 1992 Nissan 240sx?

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|       ITEM      |     WIRE COLOR     |POL|       WIRE LOCATION        |
|              12V|white               |+ |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|BLACK/ white        |+ |ignition harness            |
|   SECOND STARTER|BLACK / YELLOW        |+ |ignition harness            |
|        IGNITION|BLACK/ red           |+ |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|blue               |+ |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|ORANGE / black   *1   |F |driver's kick panel        |
|     POWER UNLOCK|same wire      *1   |F |                            |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|RED / blue            |   |back of dash dimmer        |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|RED / white           |- |courtesy light              |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|red                 |- |sw. or light in trunk       |
|       TACHOMETER|yellow/red          |   |ECM pass. kick panel        |
|       BRAKE WIRE|RED / green           |+ |brake pedal switch          |



Notes:
*1 To operate, open (cut) the org/blk wire and the doors will lock, pulse the same wire to ground and the doors unlock.

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

Not to be rude, but did you even read my original post? Your reply had nothing to do with my question.

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slipnfall wrote:

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Not to be rude, but did you even read my original post? Your reply had nothing to do with my question.

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read the notes and you will see that it does.

One wire lock system....wire a relay as follows Cut the lock wire in half....then

87a, gets the module side of the lock wire. 30 gets the door side of the lock wire. 86 gets 12v, 85 gets the negative triggers for LOCK from the unit. Attach the UNLOCK out put to the wire going to 87a "before the relay".

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KarTuneMan wrote:

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One wire lock system....wire a relay as follows

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Yeah I got it all installed this weekend. I was just over-analyzing the lock situation: I didn't see how the locks could remain locked if they were pulsed, then returned to open. Basically I wired them with the diagram on this site, specific to 240sx's: your description minus a diode.

Anyways, it took me from Friday around 5pm, to tonight around 5pm, roughly 25hrs. This was for remote start, keyless entry, alarm, and I havn't finished installing the trunk release actuator yet(have to fab a bracket). I must say, I'v gotta hand it to your guys/gals who do this for a living: this was *not* an easy task! The electronics are simple, but the planning, grouping/routing of wires, wire looming/wrapping, wow. I spent almost a day and a half just getting the wires where I wanted them, before shortening. I expect you guys have good health insurance, b/c my back is killing me!

Thanks for the help, and being patient w/me.

-Jamie

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Hi there,

      I finally finished up installing the main components of an RSX3.5 into a '92 Nissan 240sx this weekend. As I mentioned in another post, I have a new-found respect for you installers-by-day out there: this took much longer than expected. Anyways, it's all in, and everything seems to be working(sorta).

    First let me start with a general question about the dual-stage shock sensor. I mounted it behind my radio, wire-tied to a dash harness(not the radio one, this was about 1" in diameter). I was told to avoid attaching it to any [chassis]metal to prevent falses. However it seems that the thing isnt sensitive enough. I have it turned all the way up(clock-wise), and I really have to wrap on the car to get a response: which is the full shock alarm, not even the warn-away. I mean I can literally rock the car side to side w/out a trigger. If I push up/down on the front end, it goes off. The sensor wire is already loomed but I can move it about the vicinity. There tranny tunnel is covered in carpet, the HVAC box is behind it(plastic), and the radio bracket is metal. Is this normal for the 'in-box' sensor? I was expecting it to by overly sensitive.

    Next, I *think* I may have goofed up on my remote start: I wired my cold-start wire to the IGN2/ACC2 output... is the IGN2 when the car is in run only? Reason is it cranks and cranks and cranks when it's cold, but when warm it fires right up. Is it OK to just tap this cold start directly off the starter-out on the 'relay sattelite'?

   Impressions? Well I havn't had a ton of time to test it out, but first impressions are good. The remote has good indoor range: I can communication from my garage, to the other side of the house, on the second floor, from the bedroom. The remote itself is built very sturdy: the stubby antannae looks like it will hold up to some abuse. And it's certainly smaller 'in person'.

That's all for now, thanks for reading. I'm sure I'll have some more questions the longer I get to use this.

-Slip

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yes, knowing how to test and tap wire is one thing, but the most important thing about installing alarm is to know ahead of time and make wise decision on ohw to run wires to its patch. if an installation w/o organization is just obsolete when you have wires running everywhere.

good job

slipnfall wrote:

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Anyways, it took me from Friday around 5pm, to tonight around 5pm, roughly 25hrs. This was for remote start, keyless entry, alarm, and I havn't finished installing the trunk release actuator yet(have to fab a bracket). I must say, I'v gotta hand it to your guys/gals who do this for a living: this was *not* an easy task! The electronics are simple, but the planning, grouping/routing of wires, wire looming/wrapping, wow. I spent almost a day and a half just getting the wires where I wanted them, before shortening. I expect you guys have good health insurance, b/c my back is killing me!

Thanks for the help, and being patient w/me.

-Jamie

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

Use a relay to power up your car's second starter signal wire, because like you thought the IGN2 is only on when the car is running (not starting)

Hook up as follows:
- 87 to car's cold start wire
- 30 and 85 to car's main start wire
- 86 to ground

Plus you don't want to constantly power the cold-start wire, since it tells the ECU to fire injectors simultaneously instead of sequentially.

Oh bummer. Glad that there's a resolution though. Would it be OK to wire the cold start directly to the starter out? The supply wire is the same, so I don't think excessive current draw would be a problem. It might sound like I'm just being lazy, but I have all my ign wires tucked behind the gauges, so I'd hate to put a relay under the dash for the ignition. Plus there's like 0 room to mount the sucker to(I had to zip-tie my door lock relay to a harness by the fuse box!). Another thing, where can I find the brackets that are included in a door lock actuator kit?? They look like an erector set beam. :-) Is there a name for these, something similar that's found at a hardware store? I had to ziptie the actuator in my trunk to the stock release cable, b/c the inner trunk wall is the outer also(no where to put a bolt through)

Also, does the remote relay sattellite act as the starter kill relay? The Clifford install manual is a little unclear on this.

Thanks,

-Jamie

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Put the relay in. The cold-start wire doesn't really need any current (it's just a sense wire to the ECU), however you still need the relay to isolate the cold start and start wires when not in the starting key position.

The strap from generic door-lock actuators is just the same as any radio backstrap. Any stereo shop should have tons laying around that they'll sell/give you. Closest thing I've seen to that in a hardware store is plumbers tape (water-heater strap), but it might be too think to work.

cosmoworks wrote:

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however you still need the relay to isolate the cold start and start wires when not in the starting key position.

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Ok well since it's just a signal wire I won't have to worry about another high current wire under my dash. Wouldn't the cold start wire disconnect once the car is started(and out of the START position) anyways? Why is it necessary to isolate this further? I'm not contesting you, I'm curious.

Thanks for clearing that up: I thought the cold start directly powered the fuel pump/injectors to prime 'extra' durring cold start. It makes better sense that it's a signal wire to the ECU.

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You still see a voltage reference (+0 volts, or ground) from the start wire even when not in starting position. My guess is that the cold-start wire needs to be floating rather than grounded when not starting, but that's only my guess as to why Nissan isolates them from the factory.

Your injectors are fed positive +12 from the key powered ign source, and injector grounds are fed via pulses from the ECU. That's why the cold-start wire is just a signal to the ECU - it tells the ECU that you're starting, so that it can fire injectors simultaneously during the starting process.

Thanks for the response. I wired up a relay last night and it works great now! Fires right up. I just used the starter output to power both the relay and #30 contact. Snipped the 2nd IGN wire, and provided the cold start wire with the NO contact from the relay. I measured the max current draw on the cold start, and it's only 50mA. Nissan must leave the cold start floating durring normal use: there's no type of harness ground wire on the ignition column(or ground wire on the ign switch).

Kudos. -Jamie.

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