Remote start overcranks in 1995 240sx

I recently had a Radiostar King-Eagle alarm&r/s combo installed, the installer first hooked up the tach wire to high-voltage and the remote start kept overcranking and then shutting down the engine. The installer then connected the tach wire to distributor and remote start worked. About a week later (during that week I used the r/s maybe twise and both times it worked) the system started overcranking again. The installer then tried the following:
- Connecting tach wire to oil-sensor wire
- Connecting tach wire to fuel-injector wire
- Changing the alarm brain
- Changing the remote start module & the brain

System still overcranks! At this point the installer says that he tried everything and the problem is that the brain is not reading the tach signal. Is there anything else he (or I ) could try ? Maybe he screwed up the wiring somehow ?
The car is a 1995 Nissan 240sx 5-speed

Thanks in advance for any advice !!!

If it's over cranking it's because the tach signal is not being acknowledged by the remote starter CPU. There are 4 injector wires that you can use, did he try using one of the other 3 ? Aside from this, you should try a Compustar brand instead of the Radiostar.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Further note, some remote starter brand unit require a higher tach signal read in order to have a smoother cranking release. If the tach signal is low, overcranking will be an issue. Try a different tach if there are any you haven't test or change to a different or well known brand of remote starter altogether.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

He tried the oil pressure sensor wire? Now that's just funny and has nothing to do with the tach signal. The injector wires should work, but they fire at a rate that's 1/4 of the actual engine rpm. Let's just hope he used the pulsed ground from the ECU instead and not the BLACK/ red positive feed.

Did he try using the tach signal off the ECU? (ECU pin# 3, yellow/red wire). Also I'm not familiar with that alarm brand, but could it just be a brain programming issue?

Thanks for replies. I spoke with the manufacturer about reprogramming the brain (since i want to sell these), what would you say the values should be for the tach sensitivity in terms of voltage ?
Installer also suggested that the car may need a tune up (timing belt), you think that can have something to do with the problem ?

also about the fuel injector wires - i only see two wires coming out of each injector, which other ones should I try ?

Thanks a lot!

Andrey44 wrote:

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also about the fuel injector wires - i only see two wires coming out of each injector, which other ones should I try ?

Thanks a lot!

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Use any wire that is not common in color.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

how can u ask such basic questions on installation and say you want to sell those alarms..? Who are you going to sell them to?

Why do ppl always try to get away with these non proven, no name alarms? Maybe I am off base.... but it seems like a no name brand to me.

Our shop sells Autopage and Avital exclusively...... 99% being Autopage.

Yo Mike, check out this unit here: It's an eBay special

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Tach voltage sensitivity?!! The tach signal doesn't give out positive voltage, it's a pulsed ground. Also your installer said you need a timing belt?! Wow, you should fire your installer... your car doesn't have a timing belt!

As for the injector wire, as I said in my post above and what Jeff repeated, DON'T use the BLACK/ red postive feed wire. All other colors are ok. Maybe these brains are bad, cause your installer keeps feeding voltage into a wire that's looking for a pulsed ground.

Thanks guys, I will try to figure it out myself since I have a feeling this installer is almost as clueless as I am.

Should I try the tach wire with distributor wires? If so what color/s ?

hey andrey44 not sure if you have tried this yet but make sure you have all the ignition wires connected to the remote start unit i did an s15 silvia very close to the 240 wired it up and had exactly the same problem rechecked the ignition wires and found it had 2 starter wires when i connected both starter wires hey presto problem solved let me know how you go

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I Love This Industry!!

Sorry bobk, injector positive isn't pulsed. One side of each injector is held at constant +12V fed directly off the key solenoid (BLACK/ red wire). Grounds are pulsed from the ECU thru pins (102, 104, 107 and 109). However you're right about being able to measure with a DMM set on A/C (though technically it's not alternating current, it's a DC square wave).

Audrey, hook tach signal up to yellow/red on ECU pin 3. Or you can use any of the injector ECU ground feeds... the wire colors are: WHITE/ black, yellow/black, GREEN/ black, blue/black.

Also test that the ECU gets the cold-start signal as xtreme points out. You'll know if it's not connected if it overcranks when the engine's cold and works perfectly after the engine warms up (or it's hot outside). Verify that ECU pin #20 (orange wire) gets +12V during cranking (it's fed from the BLACK/ white wire at the key solenoid).

Hope that helps.