Impulse-990 Alarm/Remote Start, 2000 Cavalier Z24

• You have to use a anti-theft bypass module to bypass the Passlock II systems that the Caviaer uses. If you do not bypass the chip properly the car will not turn over or if it does turn over it will not stay running more than a couple of seconds.
• The door locks should not be a problem, you will need 2 relays to activate the door lock/unlock via remote control.
• L GREEN/ BLACK (-) Covers Driver Door Only, L BLUE (-) Covers All Other Doors, Diode Isolation Needed Cathode (Band) Side Of Diode Faces OEM Wires. Conv. Center Module Located Behind Driver Dash To Left Of Steering Column.

One to lock and one to unlock. Wire the door locks in series ( + to + and - to - ).

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp

Sorry to say, but these Impulse Brand alarms/remote starts seem to be crap.   Poor Design and poor documentation.   The company that makes them I think is in Washington.  But the "Impulse" Label seems to be a private label for whoever distributes them.   If you post the FCC ID # off the remote or brain,  I can tell you who makes them and maybe they can give you some support ??

Otherwise,  stick with the well known names in the future.

Thanks Thinkster,  I took a chance when I bought it....I only paid $64, which isn't too bad for a alarm/starter combo.  Here is the FCC ID# JLFTX4.

This domelight supervision still bothers me...what is the difference between that and the trigger wires at the doors?  There is one more wire the installation asks for is a (-) armed output or was it input, I don't remember! but the wire I was told was that same wire                                          for the door trigger and domelight supervision (L GRN/BLK)

I'm not 100% convinced that it is the passlock II system on my car that is causing it to shut down immediatly after remote starting.  This is one of the features listed for my alarm-->Multiplexed PATS, VATS and Factory Alarm Disarm Outputs. <--I'm not sure if one of the wires for that is not connected, as there is about 8-10 wires not in use. 

Company that makes it is: International Electronics Inc Telephone: 360 254-156

Here's the website of the manufacturer:  https://www.internationalelect.com/prod01.htm     They don't have the brand "Impulse" listed on their website, because I have a feeling that they OEM this and a distributor is selling their product under the Impulse brand name.

Multiplexed PATS, VATS and Factory Alarm Disarm Outputs this just means that there is a single wire that shows ground when running for a bypass module to be installed ( optional NOT included in the remote starter ). You still need a Passlock bypass to properly bypass the anti theft system, otherwise you will not be able to remote start your vehicle.

You guys are great!  Tell me what do I do with this wire-->ORANGE conect it to --> "an ARMED OUTPUT (-) 500MA. SHOWS LOW WHEN SYSTEM IS ARMED"<-- what wire would that be in my z24? This one is for domelight supervision-->DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT (-) 500MA<--but which wire from the car do I use?  I think it's LT. GREEN/ black but what exactly will this do?

The ORANGE wire is an optional connection taht you only have to use if you have a device that you wish to operate after you arm the system ( window modules for example ). The dome light supervision leaves the dome light on for about 30 seconds and then shuts off.

One last question about the relay switches for the door locks, I was at my local Canadian tire store today and they had relay switches for fog lights. They looked exactly like the ones on this site, with the number's 30,85,86,87,87A it was 30 amps, 12volts do these sound good enough?  cause they were only $6.

And can anyone suggest a simple but cheap bypass for the passlock II

Thanks again

$ 6.00 !!! I wish someone would pay me that much for the ones that I sell  Try this:

• https://www.the12volt.com/downloads/file.asp?ID=250

This is an ongoing project!  Thanks for that pic it's HUGE!  but I am confident it will be helpful.  First of all those three wires are they thin? they are not the ignition wires right?

One wire says "TO GROUND WHEN RUNNING FROM CAR STARTER (-)" is there one wire from the alarm/starter that I should connect to this, or do I just ground it?  If so that means 86, 87 & 30 on the left relay are  grounded with 86 on right relay? correct?  Bare with me here for hoepfully one last question...."TO VEHICLE'S IGNITION WIRE" which side of the wire would that be? the side going to the key or  to the starter? as my ign wire is cut in two thru the alarms internal starter bypass  

Thanks for your patience

Here is the pic sent   https://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/Passloack_II.gif

Here is the wiring for my alarm (about 1/2 ay down the page)https://www.internationalelect.com/mantis7.htm

Sorry about the picture size, forgot to resize the scan before I entered it into the data base ( my bad  ) The 3 small wires will be about 20 - 24 guage in size ( really thin and NOT the ignition wires ) . The only problem with the IMP 990 is that there is no GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire available. The ground when armed wire does not do the same thing as this wire will ground the all the time when the system is armed ( not what you want ). What you will have to do is use another relay to convert the ( + ) ignition wire to a negative signal to act as the GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire. Wire another relay in this configuration:

• 86 + 87 : GROUND
• 85 : Ignition wire from car
• 30 - This will now be your GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire

Make sure you diode isolate like it shows on the diagram to ensure that there is no feedback signal going back into the wire.

The IGNITION wire you will just tap into. You will not need to cut this wire at all. Use this wire also in the above relay to convert the signal to a negative output. The only wire you will need to cut in half is the 22-24 guage YELLOW wire for the Passlock II bypass.

Please confirm 86 goes to GROUND and to IGNITION WIRE??????

86 + 87 GROUND

86 TO IGNITION WIRE

30 BECOMES GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire

Sorry !! Got ahead of myself there. 85 is the ignition wire. I will correct it above.

The pic you sent about bypassing passlock II https://www.the12volt.com/uploads/files/Passloack_II.gif  has left me with yet another question......

When I measured the resistance from the yellow (ignition side) and black I got 1.755 then I switched the leads and got 1.795, after doing it all over again I still  got 1.755 and 1.795.  Does that sound right?  1.755 ohms? What size resistor would you recomend? 

Either one would be good. The resistance difference is less than 1 % and your allowable range of error is 5 %. You can use a resistor any where from the range of 1.667 to 1.885, but try to be as close to the resistor value that you have as possible for trouble free bypassing.

hi exit69

i have the excact same alarm ai probably bought it from the exact same seller too, i was really disappointed by the instructions. i also have that problem w/ the ignition actually turning on, then turning off again. for some reason, it worked fine for me for about 2 day, and i open up again to mess with it, and now its doing it again (its starting then turning off) my car has worked before, so i don't know why i stopped working. please let me know if you find out how to fix it i have a 98 honda civic. thank you

vinh766

I'm getting desperate here!  I tried all that but the car will not remote start!  I hooked up the 3 relay's as above but the security light comes on and the car then gets no fuel.  Luckly I read somewhere should this security light come on you put the key on for 20 min to reset.  I then undid everything, reinstalled and double checked everything to get the same result.(another 20 min)  This time I tried it with the key first, still got the security light.

In one of your reply's above (may 10th -10:06am)you say diode isolate like diagram shows.  Which dia. ?  I did not diode isolate???  I don't even know how.  Now my relay's are 12v - 30 amps, my resistor is 1.8k - 1/4w.  Also I did not hook up the domelight supervision wire (could that effect)?  Also didn't hook up the ground when armed wire (didn't know where, and don't think I need to)?

I am going for a record here, for most replies!  At least I got the door locks working (I didn't need any relay's) 

Somehting else just come to my attention.  YEL wire from alarm/starter says con. to true ign.  This is the system ignition input & outputs.  Assure that this wire remains on during cranking.  Would that have an effect on making my ign wire(pink) ground when running?  this is what you told me to do with a relay, as my alarm has no ground when running wire.

Almost 98 % of the time when a remote starter doesn't start the car that has an anti theft system in it.... it's because the resistance of the chip is not being recognized by the computer and therefore doesn't want to start the car. With the resistors that you are using, is the last band a GOLD or a SILVER color ? The security light goes on because the resistance is not close enough that the computer will allow the engine to turn over. Make sure that you have the resistors wired in series ( end to end to end ) and measure what the resistance is from one end ( with positive lead of DMM ) to the other ( place negative lead of DMM to other end ). Post your results here of the resistance of the resistors to 100th of a decimal point or more.

Referring to the last part of the post from above ( I know you said to disregard, but I wanted to clarify something for you  ) The GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING wire that you " MADE " from the ignition wire will only have current when the remote start is engaged, other wise this wire will always have power and will drain your battery over time. Make sure that when the car is idle, this relay is not outputing voltage through pin 30. If it is, you will have to get another input wire that closes the circuit while there is no power.

This is a whole new ball game!

After another unsuccessful attempt I decided to remove the relay's & resistor to make sure the car worked normally and it did  I tested the resistance again to find "0" resistance now! I don't understand, so now I try to start the car with the remote and it works.  You have to wait about 1-2 min. after the dome light goes off and it will start remotely.   I get in turn the key, press the brake and drive away but the service light (not check engine) and security light stay on til I shut the key off again.  I'm thinking I do need the dome light supervision and armed output(-) wires hooked up, I just can't figure out where they go.  Your diagram says i have a 2nd ign. wire (white)  https://www.the12volt.com/wireinfo/volt.asp?Year=2000&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Cavalier&Table=Security I didn't see any white wire, also  2 other diagram's I have seen on the net say n/a for 2nd ign wire.......So I'm confused!  any ideas?  This Impulse 990 is CRAP!

THANKS FOR YOUR PATIENCE.....

You didn't mention that you did not hook up the second ignition wire ( BROWN in ignition harness ). You need to hook up this wire because it powers the the anti theft module and if it doesn't power up properly you get the security light.

The dome light supervision wire is only an optional function that does not need to be connected in order for the remote starter to function properly. The armed output is a (-) 500ma wire that is also an optional wire that you can hook up to any device that requires operation after the system is armed ( starter disable circuit or power window module to close windows after you arm system ).

The BROWN wire needs to be hooked up to a relay in this configuration ( it can't be just hooked up to the 2 nd ignition wire , you NEED a relay for this circuit ):

• 86 - Ground out when running wire
• 30 - 2 nd Ignition ( BROWN wire on car )
• 87 + 85 : 12 volts constant
• 87a - NOT USED

This circuit isolates the 2 nd ignition wire from the 1 st ignition wire so prevent any problems during remote start.

Still no go!  I did notice one thing, The brown wire has power with the key back (on accessories) ?? and with the key on, but when you crank no more power is that normal? 

In my  instalation manual it says connect this wire (yellow/blk) to 2nd ignition wire no relay required......but that did the same thing (start then shut down)  Another thing I noticed is a small green wire at ignition I think it's the Ignition Key Warning wire, is this wire needed? 

The YELLOW / BLACK wire needs a relay ( according to the webpage that you listed above ino ne of the posts : https://www.internationalelect.com/mantis7.htm ). Try this for helping me better: write down on a peice of paper what wires you have on the alarm and which wires you have going to the car ( example: RED alarm wire - RED in ignition. ) I will then check out your connections and see if I can see anything

The only difference between the web page and my manual is that yel/blk wire (2nd ign.) does not need a relay it says new ! in the manual. Sorry!

RED alarm to RED ignition ---------ORG/WHT (cn6) to YELLOW starter side (this yellow wire is cut in two)------GRAY alarm to YELLOW ignition side-----YEL(cn7) to PINK ignition----------YEL/RED(cn8) to ORANGE ignition---------BLACK alarm to  a screw (GROUND)----------PINK/BLK alarm to WHITE at brake pedal--------BROWN alarm to RED of siren-------BLK of siren to same screw GROUND-----WHITE alarm to BROWN parking lights

Now I tested the brown to find power on accessory, on position, and run position..now the orange wire had power only in the on and run position!  could it be the orange is the 2nd ign wire and brown acc.wire??  I tried it with no accessory wire and with and without the 2nd ign wire and it didn't work!  These pages indicate different wires for 2nd ign and accessory causes me confusion....... https://www.the12volt.com/wireinfo/volt.asp?Year=2000&Make=Chevrolet&Model=Cavalier&Table=Security

https://www.internationalelect.com/cavalier.htm

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wires/chevcava00.htm

After several more attempts I've let the system try to start 4 times to give me the diagnostic flashes it flashes the lights seven times which means-- 7 Flashes: The system failed to properly start the engine due to not being able to sense the engine running. If this persists, Set SW5 to OFF and Connect the White Black Wire to the (-) of the COIL.

If I turn switch 5 off do I really need to connect that whiteéblk wire to my tach?  It's hard to get at it, it's at the PCM.

Got some new information here for you:

• BROWN wire is the second accessory wire.
• ORANGE is the primary ignition wire

Where do you have the tach wire on the alarm  going to ?? Are you using the tachless or the tach input ? According to this other information I have there is no 2nd ignition wire. Now that we know this, what happends when you have the unit set to tachless input and all the other wires connected as above ? Post your results. If it does nothing... let me know if it tries to crank and then nothing or if the starter stays engaged and then nothing... tell me what it does and we'll go from there.

Something doesn't seem right, for the primary ignition the install manual says assure that this wire remains on during cranking.  I checked the ORANGE wire and it doesn't stay on when cranking, at "on" and "run" there's power but not during cranking. The only wire that does stay on during cranking is the PINK wire......So the car cranks but doesn't start at all.  Are you sure ORANGE is the primary ignition wire??  And as for BROWN being the second accessory wire, where would that go?  Please set me straight which is my primary ignition wire and which is my primary accessory wire?? and what do I do with the BROWN secondary accessory wire??  and do I have a second ignition wire??

thanks

SORRY !! It's been a long day..... I'll take my head out of my @$$ !!  the PINK wire is your primary ignition what I was trying to say above is that the ORANGE is your primary accessory wire . You mentioned that it tested 12 volts in the CRANK and RUN positions so this would dictate that the PINK is the ignition wire. The second accessory wire doesn't always need to be hooked up unless the two accessories combined power your AC & heater control. Other wise the second ignition only powers such things as defrost, or rear heaters where applicable. Try this first and post your results.

didn't want to doubt you!  but that is what I  realized, and already tried. Still the same damn old story.  start and stop!  I don't understand yesterday for a few times it worked fine but some lights stayed lit on my dash, now it's hooked up the same way and it won't work anymore.  I noticed someone else with a 98 honda civic with the same $hitty alarm with the same damn problem...........Please you got any more ideas?

If the  problem is that the unit starts the car and immediately stops, it's a bypass issue. The transponder is not seeing the correct resistance from the relays & resistors. The best way to check this ( I know it's a pain in the ass ) but disconnect the resistors and re-attach all 3 of the Passlock wires as if you never did anything to them. Don't disconnect any other wires and put the key in the ignition and turn it over to the ON position. Use the remote starter now to activate the start sequence and if it works.... you know it's the resistance that you had was incorrect.

Where did you attach the tach signal wire to ?? Did you make sure that the dip pin switch for TACH or TACHLESS was set properly ?Make sure that the dip pin switches are as described :

• Switch # 1: ON
• Switch # 2: ( Passive arming ) ON or ( No passive arming ) OFF
• Switch # 3: Ignition enabled door locks ON or OFF
• Switch # 4: Remote Start Mode ON

Try to attach the tach signal and set the pin switch to ON.

Well do you know of another wire I could use to attach the tach wire to?  I know the tach wire is white and at the PCM but I looked and there are at least 3 or 4 white wires! Or would you happen to know how to find the right one?  Just to get To the PCM, I have to rip half the car apart.

Actually Jeff thinking back to yesterday, I didn't turn the key to "on" when I tried starting the car with the remote, I just put it in the ignition.  Today I tried turning it to "on"  but it won't allow me while the key  is in the "on " position. ( I think that is normal)

There is a WHITE wire in a harness by the battery below the radiator hose, just above the transaxle. In this group of wire you will also find a PURPLE / WHITE wire ( this can also be used as a tach wire but it is not a clean signal ).

Well I finally got the remote start to work properly except for one minor detail the service and security light stays on (not flashing, and car works fine) Here is the bypass method I used (method 2) https://www.internationalelect.com/vatts.htm

A few things to remeber:I did not hook up the yel/blk wire to the white wire and pink wire of car as I don't have a white wire!  just pink! also if you go here https://www.internationalelect.com/mantis7.htm and see how to wire this alarm/starter it says you need a relay for the yel/blk (2nd ign wire) But with the new alarm I have, the instructions say you don't need a relay anymore, might that have something to do with it?  bcause the bypass method comes from the same site (might be the old way when a relay was needed for 2nd ign wire)

This may help also, I removed the relay's and put it back with just alarm and when I seperate the tiny yel wire those lights (security and service) come on when I turn the key.

If anyone can help with this I would really appreciate a post, this has been going on way too long now!  Thanks.

well, i finally got mine working...thanks to john.  works great and no lights... here's what he told me:

next get a spdt 5 pin relay and do the following
pin 87 with the resistor value in it to black uncut wire
pin 87a to key side of of yellow wire
pin 30 to motor side of yellow
pin 86 to the best ground
pin 85 to ignition wire of starter unit you are installing

this never fails !

if you have any questions, just email me and i'll draw it out for you or something.

Joe (jpradel@wireone.com)