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'99 Ford Escort ZX2, Viper 130XV

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=66530
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 11:46 PM


Topic: '99 Ford Escort ZX2, Viper 130XV

Posted By: nufan81
Subject: '99 Ford Escort ZX2, Viper 130XV
Date Posted: November 18, 2005 at 3:54 PM

Hi all new to the forums, but have been browsing trying to get some help with a problem i am having.

Had a Viper 130XV Remote Starter installed in my automatic '99 Ford Escort ZX2.

First problem was that on most occasions, when i started the remote starter it would turn itself off after anywhere between 30 seconds to one minute. Took it back to the installer and he said he "changed the voltage" which fixed it.

Now whilst still at the shop i tried the starter and the car "turned on" radio, air con, lights etc.. came on, but the engine wouldnt turn over. I turned it on with the key, drove home, and tested the starter and it seemed fine, and wasnt turning itself off after 1 minute woo hoo !

In the morning i woke up, got ready for work, and pushed the starter. Again ! everything in the car turned on EXCEPT the motor would not turn over and start ! So when i got to work tried again and of course it worked fine.

Now i am not too up to play with car electronics, so i will be taking it back to the installer, but it would help if any of you have any tips i can relay to him. The way i see it, it won't start when its cold now (i didnt have the same problem when i first got the starter, just the fact it was turning itself off way too quick)

Now i AM up in Canada of course and we do get some cold weather, but this morning it was only -1 (Celcius) and it should be able to operate at far colder than this (otherwise im screwed when it gets to -50 !)

Any ideas guys? Like i said i wouldnt know how to fix it myself, but ive been back and forth to the installer so much that if they cant fix it perfectly this next time then im going to get it pulled out and my money back and take my business elsewhere (and perhaps get a different brand of starter?? I chose Viper due to the name and warranty but its been nothing but grief so far)

Thanks !




Replies:

Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: November 18, 2005 at 3:56 PM
couldnt work out how to edit, but just in addition to the above, i wanted to make it clear that the car would turn over just fine when it was like -23 the other morning, but it had to be changed due to the fact it was turning itself off after a minute. So it doesnt make sense that it wont turn over now when its only -1 (scared the installer will say its the cars fault)




Posted By: pss5075104
Date Posted: November 18, 2005 at 4:20 PM
if the car will not crank, either the starter wire came undone witch i doubt, or if it has a bypass ring from a 555u, or 556u the ring may have came out of contact range for thr ignition to read the code.

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D

MECP First Class Certified Installer.

Nothing is impossable, it's just more expensive.




Posted By: pss5075104
Date Posted: November 18, 2005 at 4:21 PM
also it should be on tach. mode not voltage.

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D

MECP First Class Certified Installer.

Nothing is impossable, it's just more expensive.




Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 5:49 AM

thanks guys, bear with me as i am new to this.

Anyway it turned over fine this morning, temperature was 2 above (Celcius)

So not sure why it wouldnt start yesterday. Maybe it won't start if its been sitting for too long or it wont start if its any colder than it is today.

Just out of interests sake, is there any way i can tell whether its in "tach" mode or "voltage" mode ? Do you think due to the fact the installer had to "change the voltage" for the first problem i was having means its in voltage mode? Would this be difficuilt for him to change over it if is in the wrong mode? Wonder if there is a reason if he put it in the wrong mode. im not entirely sure of the difference though.





Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 9:57 AM
Probably a bad ground, folowed by an improper setting....

Gus



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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 7:27 PM
thanks guys, when you say setting is this something i can look at or needs to be installer? frustrating thing is trying to emulate this for the installer since it only happened when it was slightly below 0 with the car sitting all night. Started this morning so maybe it fixed itself? who knows.




Posted By: pss5075104
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 8:54 PM
the install needs to look at it. this can be done withe either a bitwriter, or he will have to go in through the valet switch for programing.

-------------
D

MECP First Class Certified Installer.

Nothing is impossable, it's just more expensive.




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 11:28 PM
 I would take it back to the shop and ask the installer  if its set to sense voltage or tach. If its voltage i would ask him to switch it to tach. It being a ford he needs to use one of the fuel injector wires or it will start and shut down like it did before you took it back.




Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 8:00 AM

ok thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated. Its been fine all weekend so don't know if the case is closed or not. Definately the problem with it stopping itself within a minute of turning it on has not happened again. And niether has the second problem of the motor not turning over but everything else starting like lights, air con. etc..

He is meant to call me back on Monday so i might just continue to monitor it and take it back if it happens again. I will also ask him about the "tach vs voltage" question.

If anyone has time could i get a quick explanation of the difference between the two?

Again, a great community here, lots of great help, really appreciate it.





Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 8:36 AM
Check under the hood and see if he has a wire spliced into the blue/green wire at the coil pack. You would see a wire coming through the firewall on the drivers side into the engine compartment. It then runs to the the coil pack and you should see a wire connected. If you don't see one then ask the installer where he connected to for tach. He might have just used a poor tach wire or the settings need to be tweaked. The voltage sense can be used but the tach is more reliable. The symptoms you described of igniton and everything coming on but it's not running are common to voltage sense settings.

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Steve G




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 12:49 AM
Settings need to be tweeked.....

Car was done here, by one of my underlings. Tach was on the blue/green, if I remember. Gave us an "over rev" shutdown code.   Dunno if the boy changed any thresholds as far as crank time, or voltage check level or not. He'll be calling this customer first thing monday morning ( he was supposed to call him Sat., but I was so bloody busy, I forgot to hound him about it.)

Rooty toot toot...... looks like the boy gets to experience the wonders of Ford country!

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 12:52 AM
Show him the way gus lol

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Steve G




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 12:59 AM
Oh... I will. Just before he comes to work, he better find his way to Tim Hortons as well. :-)

Noob error, I imagine. Prolly a bunk ground as well, I figure. Some of those Escorts are a bit tricky posted_image .

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: gh057
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 7:51 AM

Your Tim's will be on your bench this morning Gus!. And if I recall I was busy on Sat too. Thanks for all the input guys and Nufan be expecting a call before lunch to get your car in and fixed up.





Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 12:59 PM
so...confused :| gh.....hmmm that makes sense now !




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 11:57 PM
If you will use an injector wire on the fords it will elminate the over rev and short cranks on the ford when using dei product. Since dei changed the rs this is only reliable source for the tach signal on the fords.




Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: December 09, 2005 at 1:18 PM

hey guys im sorry to bring up this old thread but im still having some problems with my Viper as stated above.

Have been back a few times to the installer and they have tried lots of stuff. I still am having a couple of problems.

1) It still seems to refuse to start when it gets a little cold. When plugged in the starter will start the car without fail. I understand when its REALLY cold that the car needs to be plugged in but this morning it was only -6 and the starter was a no go. It tries to crank over, everything in the car turns on (lights, radio etc.) but the car doesnt start. The "brains" have already been replaced.

2) Since it has been installed, i have noticed a wierd thing happening with the red light on my dashboard for the emergency brake (handbrake light, whatever u wanna call it). It lights up as if you have the handbrake on even though of course you don't. It happens when you accelerate off the mark pretty much until you take the foot off the gas. It seems to happen more when you have started the car with the remote starter and then put the key in rather than actually starting the car with the key. This is a strange one and the only reason i bring it up here is because it has never done this until the remote starter was installed.

Hope this makes sense, trying to narrow things down so can call installer back again and try get this sorted out.





Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 09, 2005 at 8:59 PM
On the second issue sounds like brake fluid is low.




Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: December 09, 2005 at 10:31 PM
I'm sure they checked this but did the installer use both Ignition wires? Could the 2nd igniton be wired but dropping out like an accessory wire. Maybe the accessory and 2nd Ignition are swapped by accident. In which case swapping the brain wouldn't change a thing. Go back and double check those in particular.

The brake light coming on only during remote start sounds very much like when a GM vehicle remote starts without the 2nd Ignition and turns the Check Engine light on.

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Steve G




Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: December 10, 2005 at 11:44 AM
hmm ok thanks for the input guys, so many things to check, can i check brake fluid myself or need to go to a shop? Just seems strange it started with the remote starter. :|




Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: December 10, 2005 at 11:48 AM
Yeah, I think that it is more likely that a wire is not getting energized that should if it only happens during remote start and not when using the key.

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Steve G




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 10, 2005 at 7:28 PM

He says the problem happens when also starting with the key says it seems to do it more when started with the remote start.





Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 10, 2005 at 7:36 PM

I would check brake fluid its easy to check.





Posted By: nufan81
Date Posted: December 12, 2005 at 11:18 AM

again thanks for the input. I checked the brake fluid and it about 3/4 full between LOW and MAX. I haven't noticed the brake light coming on lately though on the last 3-4 drives so not sure if this problem has just dissapeared or not?

Also with the car not wanting to remote start when it gets a little cool, could this be anything with the car itself? ie. the anitfreeze or something?






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