Customer complaint

I just finished installing a air ride set up in a 1996 gmc truck.  During the install the ignition switch stopped giving power to the 2nd ignition which is where I have the commpressor relay switch and the switchbox connected.  When I contacted him and asked if he'd had problems with this in the past he said no.  When I gained access to the ignition switch I found that when pressure is applied, contact is made to 2nd ignition and when there is no pressure on the ignition, contact is intermittently lost.  I explained that the switch goes bad from having the key turned on and off and eventually the contact will be grinded down.  Anyways the customer believes that I should have to replace the switch since the vehicle was in my hands.  My question is can I just connect the 2nd ignition to the primary ignition and call it good?  How else can I explain that I have nothing to do with the ignition going bad that it is just normal wear and tear?

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Im moving to MEXICO and Im not speaking spanish!

Well, of course you broke it... that's how it works, don'tcha know?

   You could wire them together, hopefully the remaining contact hold up to the increased current demand. Or, use a relay to switch the second ignition off the first one (better route), relay may eventually give out after a couple thousand cycles or so... or maybe not.

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

mrjc480 wrote:

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During the install the ignition switch stopped giving power to the 2nd ignition which is where I have the commpressor relay switch and the switchbox connected.  
  My question is can I just connect the 2nd ignition to the primary ignition and call it good?  

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How much Ampherage are you drawing from that wire??
Just because the Switch may be worn out, does NOT relieve you of compounding the problem when you hook up more Accessories.  The Switch may NOT have given him any problems, but just the mere fact you were in there has him believeing you caused it.

Best to come to an agreement that he splits the cost & you supply the labor.  If not, you never know what can happen

Do it right, so it don't come back & haunt you

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

I like Gus's idea, use a relay to power the second ignition. That way it's getting the power needed. I would be upfront with the customer first, and even bring him into the shop to show him the actual problem....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I talked to him over the phone and explained that I can correct the problem without buying a new switch.  Is there anything I should warn him about?  Also I know that we all encounter problems like this during the course of a install such as having to cut wires on a factory amp bypass and other deviations to a OEM setup.  Do you guys inform the customer on such instances or do you just follow through with the install.  Problems that I encounter are corrected and will never be found unless someone is hacking into my work.

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Im moving to MEXICO and Im not speaking spanish!

If you caused the problem then you SHOULD replace the part. If you tried to pull too much current through the ign then it is YOUR fault. The correct way would have been to relay the power via a solenoid. Most compressors pull too much current for relays and definately too much current then the ign switch.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

You must not have read correctely,  I clearly said I connected the compressor relay switch and the switchbox  which both pull very little amps.  Nobody caused the problem besides wear and tear.  Even if I had directely connected the compressor that shouldnt cause the 2nd ing. to intermittently make contact.

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Im moving to MEXICO and Im not speaking spanish!

Mrjc, i remember GM having issues with the ignition switches in trucks in the late 90's. I remember us having at least three trucks that had to have the switch replaced under warranty and the dealer tried to say it was our installs,....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I said IF. And yes, if you tried to pull too much current through the ignition switch it could cause this problem. It would act like a fuse and eat away at the contacts.

Also, are the switches going through relays or directly to the solenoids? What is the draw of 1 solenoid? What is the draw of 4 at once?

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Just replace the switch. It only costs about 20 bux, and I would rather pay the money than deal with the headache of arguing with him. That kind of stuff happens all the time. In the end, I would rather eat the cost of a new switch than risk having a customer leave unsatisfied. A customer pays a pro to perform a service for them and expects to be satisfied. But when a customer isn't satisfied they tell an average of 7 people about it, and thats seven people who aren't going to be giving you thier business. I suppose that if you work for a shop you dont care about then it doesn't matter, but since I started my own I am directly affected by bad word of mouth.


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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

There are (4) switches that control each wheel, no relays and each solenoid pulls 0.5 amps.  I have the switchbox fused@ 5a and the relay switch fused @5a.  The ignition switch is $150 special order through AutoZone.  I dont even want to know what the dealer costs and it looks like it requires a "female torx" to remove. I have no idea where to even buy that tool.  The customer agreed to let me relay from the primary ignition but hes located 50 miles on the other side of Phoenix and his schedule wont let him to meet up with me until next week.

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Im moving to MEXICO and Im not speaking spanish!

I believe that a 3.5mm socket will work for that "female torx".
Also what shop are you at or are you doing this on your own?
From gmpartsdirect.com the switch is $106 special order, part number 26036311. Just to let you know. I would call Courtesy Chevrolet and see what they can do for you, Bill Heard has always gotten parts real quick for me. But in the end it is up to the customer and if they don't have a problem with that then no harm no foul. There could be a recall that this vehicle could still apply for.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

well i deal with all kinds of different customers throught the daily stress. it really gets to me sometimes but like prevuosly posted they are our best advertisment and that word of mouth could go eitheway bad and good. i've done good so far in my business because of word of mouth and that is because i do the best i possibly can. take pride in your work and you will shine like a diamond and have more work then you can handle. but you will always have those horrible customers, just remember to do your best.

with the ignition switch take the advise posted and try to get the customer to split the cost if not . you will have to eat it and then you look at your profit of the job. sounds like a high profit job and you shouldn't have to go to the bone yard to save costs , is always an option so it don't come out of your pocket. it sounds like your install is correct if those ratings are acurate. gm's do have bad ignitions and i would try to go with the aftermarket instead of the bone yard. take the loss ,get it out of your shop and call it a day. good luck

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs

I just bought an ignition swith for 23 dollars for a 87 chevy pick up from the dealership. of course I got the good guy price being a dealer and all, but retail was only 50 bucks. Autozone is skrewing you.

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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

hey man.. find the part number and go to gmpartsdirect.com thats the cheapest place for chevy parts usually

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10