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Remote start acting weird, can’t disengag

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=68604
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 11:22 PM


Topic: Remote start acting weird, can’t disengag

Posted By: jonchos
Subject: Remote start acting weird, can’t disengag
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 5:40 PM

I have a 96 monte carlo with a clifford matrix 1 alarm and a 561T viper valet remote start. Today I started my car with the remote and then disarm the alarm and got in the car, put the key in the ignition and drove for about 3 miles, got home turn the key to the off position and the car stayed on!!!!! I turned the key to the on position and then back to off and nothing, the car was still on. I think I pushed the brake and the car was still on. Also when i got home I noticed that the lights were blinking. Almot like I never disengaged the remote start. I just went out to my car and turned it on with the RS and got in and pusehd on the brake and the cars stays on. WTF. Can the brake switch go bad? Does anybody had this happen? What should Ido?



Replies:

Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 5:47 PM

Definitely the brake studown isn't working for some reason. Most common mistake is to make the wire connection too short, and it eventually pulls out from the brake wire when you push the pedal.

Easy fix, just get under there, make sure it's long enough, and re-connect it.





Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 6:04 PM
if thats ok and you still don't know what to do. check your brake light to see if they come on when you depress the brake pedal. the switch could be bad. but most likly like wiretapper said you have a bad connection. good luck

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
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sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
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alotofhighs




Posted By: jonchos
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 6:05 PM
Well I just went in there and the wire is pluged in. Although there is a wire terminal/pin connector that is just hanging there. It has to be OEM because I have not installed this. Also I do not recall seeing it before. I will go and try to find where it goes. I have noticed that my brake light would stick sometimes, like I will turn off the car and the brake lights are still on, I will push the brake pedal a few times and they would go off. But I was checking that today and they are not doing that today. I also checked to sdee if they worked and they did. sooooo... I am so confusded. I hope i can figure it out.




Posted By: jonchos
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 10:07 PM
Well it seems to be a short of some sort. I checked the brake trigger connection from the remote start and it is fine, Maybe the t-tap I put in there is not making contact very well. I did several tests on the car and the brake will work sometimes and sometimes not(brake turning the remote start off). The brake light worked everytime I pressed the brake pedal so I am guessing the brake switch is wroking fine. The only think I can guess is causing the problems is the t-tap connector.  Te t-tap is 18-14 gauge, I don't know what is the size of the wire in the remote start brake shut off.




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 10:28 PM
Sooo... get rid of the T-tap and use a more reliable wire connection method. Problem solved.

Gus
PS: T-taps and every other IDC should be banned, or the factory destroyed or something. I hate them. They do not work reliably over any given period of time.

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......




Posted By: jonchos
Date Posted: December 17, 2005 at 10:52 PM
When i was installing my alarm, most of the people told me to go with t-taps, now I regret it. One day I am going to go and switch al of them to good old reliable solder. Thank you guys.




Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 6:14 PM

You should all learn how to properly connect  AND  test a "T" tap.

This world will be happier with less whiners and better trained installers.

Hundreds and HUNDREDS of remote starters installed, and I can't count the T tap failures on one hand.





Posted By: jonchos
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 7:16 PM

wiretapper quote [You should all learn how to properly connect  AND  test a "T" tap.]

Maybe I should, how did you learn?

wiretapper quote [This world will be happier with less whiners and better trained installers.]

Hey! no need to call me a whiner, all I am seeking is advice. Alarm installation and car audio is not my job, if it was I would be profesionally trained.





Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 9:31 PM

I wasn't referring to YOU being a whiner.posted_image

Connectors vs T taps have been THE topic at all the training centers. If  done correctly, and with correct size for the wire, T taps are just as efficient. In a rough service situation, soldering is an extra insurance plan and is mostly recommemded. But under normal use, connectors crimped properly work just as well. I won't even get into the risk of using an AC soldering gun on BCM wires.

Do your own test if you're not a believer. Take two identical lengths of  wire. Then crimp a T tap on one and strip back 1/4" on the other. Get two more identical length/guage wires and solder one to the stripped wire. Then crimp a 1/4" male connector to the other. MAKE SURE you use the correct size connectors! Take a resistance measurement on both wires, form one end of the main wire to the connected end of the other wire. You'll be surprised at the results. Your doubts about proper crimping should be answered.

Now back to the topic.......






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