2004 Colorado remote starter
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=69124
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 9:47 PM
Topic: 2004 Colorado remote starter
Posted By: timdobb
Subject: 2004 Colorado remote starter
Date Posted: December 24, 2005 at 5:22 PM
Following instructions from the directech site I started my truck then cut the blue / YELLOW wire and measured the resistance in the crank position. I got about 3K ohms so i shut my truck off. Out of curiosity with the wire cut I attempted to start the engine and it cranked right up. So whats up, I mean the key was in the ignition but I cut one of the key sense wires. Im new at this but there are 5 wires coming out of the ignition and the directions are quite clear
Replies:
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: December 24, 2005 at 5:54 PM
How long did you wait before restarting?
Did you HOLD the Ignition Key to the CRANK position while measuring Resistance?
-------------
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 24, 2005 at 6:49 PM
Ya the resistance check was in the crank position but I didnt wait before the restart and i see there is a 4 minute failure timer. So next dilema does any one know where the neg bulb test wire is on the colorado
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: December 24, 2005 at 9:39 PM
timdobb wrote:
So next dilema does any one know where the neg bulb test wire is on the colorado
There is none....that was back on Passlock systems in the 1996-1999 era.
Posted By: 78musicman
Date Posted: December 25, 2005 at 7:16 AM
I have a colorado and there is no Blue / YELLOW.Did you mean WHITE/ blue data wire.
-------------
colorado tap the rockies
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 25, 2005 at 11:17 AM
Ya, it is WHITE/ blue sorry
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 11:17 AM
Ok between 78 musicman and mo12v Ive got my viper 771 wired, tach learned, and cranking with the 555lw bypass installed. But, I get about 3 seconds of crank the engine starts and immediately dies. This is a self learning unit but the truck is a hybrid passlock 1 and 2 and I have no specific wiring diagram to go by. I have cut the ignition WHITE/ blue and interrupted it with the 555. My problem is I should be using the WHITE/ yellow for a reference wire according to directed doc 1603. My truck will not even crank or run like this even with the key. If I connect to the black passlock ground input from the 555 to the black in the ignition harness my truck starts and runs normally.
Posted By: 78musicman
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 11:37 AM
Do you have the ground out from remote start wire hooked to your bypass?It only grounds during remote start.Its hard to get what you are saying.Sounds like the bypass is working or it will not crank at all,but your R/S is shutting it down.
-------------
colorado tap the rockies
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 12:03 PM
no it goes to the chassis ground, the bypass wants the passlock reference wire connected to its black except I dont have a black reference wire in my harness.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 12:09 PM
555L doesnt work on this chassis... you need 556L or PLJX
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 12:46 PM
The unit I have is a 555LW its for passlock 1 and 2 the tech who sold me this unit hopefully knows his stuff I'm looking for the application notes for this unit on the web but its new and not very many people have it.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 1:48 PM
the Canyon/Colorado have a different version of PL II ( same as the Saturn Ion) and the 555L is not compatible.... you need the 556L or PLJX as i already mentioned.... ------------- Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 2:15 PM
Yup your right . The LW is just a modified L. The 556L is for the Colorado. Thanks guys I'll go tomorrow get the right module and strangle the tech guy. I just hope the wiring directions match my truck better.
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 2:17 PM
LW is just an L ( not a MODIFIED L ) the W just stands for white box ( as opposed to the clam shell package) i'd have to question who you are getting your info from as none of it seems to be accurate.....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 3:37 PM
I talked to an installer that used to work at a stereo place he just guessed that is was a variation of the LW but also agreed that you were right about being it the wrong module
Posted By: 78musicman
Date Posted: December 29, 2005 at 4:29 PM
You may have the wrong one i think that one is for older vehicles i used the PLXR from bypasskit.com
I WROTE THIS SUNDAY TIM
-- Previous Private Message --
Sent by : timdobb
Sent : December 25, 2005 at 10:25 AM
Yes I'm sorry it is the blue white wire. Im told the colorado is a mix of passlock 1and 2. My bypass module a, 555L, also wants a negative bulb test wire. I found a black in the harness that goes negative during the crank and drops out at the start but also is negative in the off position I dont think this is a problem . Merry Christmas by the way.
-------------
colorado tap the rockies
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 30, 2005 at 8:27 AM
PLXR has been discontinued and been replaced with the PLJX
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: mobile1
Date Posted: December 30, 2005 at 4:28 PM
I know everyone here is saying you need the 556l to bypass this, but take a look at this. I know it says its for the ION but its the same starting system to my understanding. //www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1610.pdf
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 30, 2005 at 5:22 PM
they came out with that in 03 before they realized that it didnt work properly, plus using the PLXR / PLJX eliminates the need to CUT into the passlock wires, ensuring a stable bypass without affecting the OEM system or potential warranty issues....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 3:00 PM
Well with help from all of you guys my RS install is a winner. And the 556L comes with model specific instructions. In thirty minutes I had the 555 out the 556 in, my dash back together and my truck was starting with the remote. I hooked up the white drivers door unlock trigger up for now but having the 5wi door locks would be nice. If any one has wire specific instructions on this it would be nice.
Posted By: 78musicman
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 7:10 PM
I hooked up the white drivers door unlock trigger up for now but having the 5wi door locks would be nice. If any one has wire specific instructions on this it would be nice Don't understand that paragraph but lock is light blue ,unlock is dark blue There are two sets of these colors in the passenger kick panel.I thick they are both locks. So pic one of each color and tap in.This truck is negitive door locks so no relay needed. ------------- colorado tap the rockies
Posted By: timdobb
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 8:17 PM
So there is a white wire that only triggers the drivers door. I got some really nice pictures of the light and dark blue, lock and unlock wires from a tech site. And I checked both wires while operating the door locks and the status never changed. I'll dig around more in the harness but short of having a bad connection on a test lead these aren't the right two wires
|