toyota corolla XRS 2006 alarm wiring

I am considering adding an alarm to the existing immobilizer system and keyless entry.  There are alarm kits for this.  Is this going to be a problem?

Is the wiringing schematics the same as posted for the 2005 corolla S?

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Mot

The only difference is the door trigger isn't located on the back of the dimmer switch anymore, beyond that it's the same as 05. I do a ton of keyless uprades, did a Corolla today. I use the Pursuit Pro9232a.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Hey thanks much...I didn't get a chance to take u before.....so where is the door trigger then, if not back of dimmer switch....?

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Mot

I use the Pursuit PRO-9232A as well, and have done many Corollas.

For all Corollas 2003-2006, I use RED / yellow in the driver's doorsill for the door trigger. It catches all four doors, and is not affected by the domelight delay.

While I am there, I also get parking lights, and the passenger-door unlock-motor wire in the same place.

mot1000, systems like the Pursuit (by Audiovox) PRO-9232A are designed to work using your factory Toyota remotes---easy to install, and convenient to use. DEI's Automate AM1 or Hornet 700T also work from your factory remotes.

Are you planning to do remote start as well? The factory Toyota remotes don't work while the car is running----if you're going to do remote start, buy an alarm/start combination unit, with its own remotes, and put the Toyota ones away.

Chris thanks much for the info.

I am using a DEI FA1, which uses the door lock/unlock to arm/disarm the alarm.   I get it for about 50 bux at jc whitney.  Good info. tat I can use the 700T, can't fin the audiovox here.

I tap in to driver side's kickpanel, blue connector, red and  blue wire for the lock/unlock.

I tried tapping into the horn GREEN/ YELLOW wire and it doesn't seem to work with the FA1.  P.S.  FA1 does not come with a shock sensor or siren....that sucks considering a full featured alarm costs about 70.  But compared to a dealership tat want 500 bux for the alarm....I can't complain.  If you know where online I can order the audiovox or hornet, please let me know..

Best regards.

I tried taping into the RED / white and it only triggered the driver's door.  I will try the RED / yellow in the door sill as u suggest.. thanks much cause I was scratchin my head.  The trunk trigger was easier than I thought after removing the rear seat.

I don't use the remote start.

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Mot

Mot, glad to be of help.

Where are you getting the horn wire? Are you testing the wire with a meter or test light, or just connecting to it and hoping it works?

If you remove the shroud around the steering column (three screws), put your head down and look up at the backside/underside of the steering wheel.

Behind the wheel, one connector is yellow---those are the airbag wires. The other connector is white, with three wires..........WHITE/ black is ground to feed the horn and cruise switches.......and then there are two GREEN/ YELLOWs........one is horn, the other is for the cruise control......... you might just have the wrong wire.

I'm not familiar with the FA1 model number, but it sounds like another version of the AM1/700T. I also think it's a little bold of them to not include a siren or starter kill.

Chris,

Using the wiring color codes provided by this forum for the corolla, it indicates the GREEN/ YELLOW is what i tap into.  the other is GREEN / WHITE.   I know I have correct connector, but will back pin the GREEN / WHITE and try it cause the GREEN/ YELLOW is not working for the horn hook up to the alarm.

the starter kill can be hooked up if I put in a relay.  I think they intended the alarm to use the factory horn.  They should have included a shock sensor which I had to obtain separately. 

PROBLEM.  As far as using the RED / yellow for the door sense, it works but causes the door open light in the dash to remain dimly lit when closed....so i jumpered to the dome lit directly and the dash light was not dimly lit.......I don't want to run a wire from the dome light through the ceiling and sill.  I am thinking of trying to put a resistor between the RED / yellow wire u suggest and my alarm sense wire.  Any other suggestions?  I believe that during the day, the dash light may not be noticable, but though u should know there may be a potential problem.

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Mot

You may very well be right about those two wires at the steering column being different colors. I always thought they were the same color, so I've just always tested each one until I found the horn---but maybe I wasn't looking closely enough at the colors.

What do you have for test equipment---you are testing the wires on the car as you go along, correct?

If the wire on the car shows a ground when you blow the horn, it must be the correct wire---that would then point to some trouble with the alarm.

Also, the door-ajar light being dimly lit is suspicious---that means that for whatever reason, the alarm is putting out a slight ground on its door-trigger wire.

Is the rest of the installation complete? Have you verified, with a tester, that all of the wires are doing what they're supposed to?

The door-trigger-dimly-lit thing makes me especially wonder if the ground connection is good. That would also prevent the alarm's horn-honk feature from working, too.

About the shock sensor: Again, I'm not familiar with the FA1, but the AM1 and 700T have an internal shock sensor. There's a small black knob on the side of the brain for adjustment. The plug on the brain is so that you can use a standalone shock sensor if you want.

The internal shock sensor is fine, with two limitations: 1. You have to mount the brain in a good spot to sense vibrations. 2. If the brain is well hidden, adjusting the sensor is difficult.

I am using a digital ohmmeter fluke 87. 

I assumed the diagrams were correct....made Ass of u and me.....I know better but gettin lazy....

I will check the horn wire out tonite....

door sense - I thought the same thing too, but when I hooked  it up directly to the neg side of the dome light the alarm worked correctly and the dim lit thingy problem didn't follow.  So I think we have what they call a sneak circuit.........anyway....putting in a resistor in line or going directly to the low side of the door ajar light on the dash may be the easiest route.   I wish I could get the wiring diagrams to the car...do u have any and do u know exactly where the RED / yellow wire goes?  I figure going to the neg side of the dash door ajar light would be the was to go.

the FA1 has an external plug for a shock sensor...it is not built in like the hornet.  I am familiar with installing a hornet (forgot model number, but it is complete alarm) on another car.

Hey, thanks so much for the help...I just got to get this figured out so I can close up the car....p.s. I got two FA1 boxes, so I can try plugging in the other and see if the RED / yellow wire is still a prob.....let u know later.

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Mot

P.s. 

I tried 10pin connector red wire in front of fuse box and same thing.  dash door open lite is still dimly lit......I started tracing RED / yellow wire from dome light (when jumped here no problem) and found wiring running to driver front door column by srs bags.....so....it seems my xrs is different. 

I took covers off the pillar between driver and rear driver passenger and will try to run a wire down it and along the driver door sill.........

I hope to update everyone on this one.....my car was built in detroit...............

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Mot

XRS....bloody XRS is answer.

1) uses luminese display so do ajar indicator is different.

2) XRS has curtain airbags, so the wiring is run forward to front window pillars.

3) so direct wire to dome light RED / yellow works great. 

4) Horn wire is GREEN / WHITE, not green yellow

5) door lock sense, use blue connector at driver's kick and tap into blue and red.

Now I am done.....on to another install on a highlander.

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Mot