2005 Tacoma remote start problems
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=72675
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 2:07 AM
Topic: 2005 Tacoma remote start problems
Posted By: nokia15291
Subject: 2005 Tacoma remote start problems
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 9:06 AM
AFter messing with this for hours yesterday I found the problem..I have a Crimestopper 2016....no factory alarm...if the lock/unlock circuits are disconnected from alarm and I lock manually truck remote starts all the time with no problem When I lock/unlock it will not remote start and sometimes doesn't even lock/unlock.....anyone know what the damn problem is?? This truck is a PITA to hook anything up to....tried using purple and blue/white to lock and both GREEN/ black and gray to unlock....neither works Please help!!!
Replies:
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 10:19 AM
Are you using the Keysense wire? Using the status output from the remote start to trigger this wire will disarm the factory alarm without unlocking the doors. ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 10:21 AM
I don't have a factory alarm
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 10:22 AM
Now that the damn unlock/lock circuit thing isn't hooked up its not remote starting again...i here the relay click no ignition or anything then it just locks and arms.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 11:13 AM
Did you hook up the starter disable circuit & also what bypass module did you use for the Immobilizer ? In your last post you said that you disconnected the locking circuit & it still locked ? How is this possible if you disconnected this feature from the truck ?
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 2:49 PM
OK...I did figure out what is going on but don't know why.... Once the truck arms and sits for about a minute it will not remote start...I don't even hear the relay inside the remote start click at all...it's like it doesnt even attempt to do anything..it just locks and thats it I did not even hook up the starter disable circuit at all because my truck has that stupid chip in the key and wont start unless the specific keys are used.. I used the 556U for the byapss module... Locking and unlocking works...I did hook that back up... Really sounds to me like something is screwed up with the RS...anyone have any suggestions?
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 3:26 PM
Like Mo said...if you power up the key sence GREEN/ blackNEG(-) at the ign. switch. The truck WILL start. Use the status wire to trigger it! Crimestopper might call it ground while running -------------
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 3:38 PM
tried that too and it doesnt do anything.... My remote start doesnt turn on the ignition...nothing at all...it just locks the doors...the ignition relay doesnt click at all....I even put a key in the igntion and left it off....tried remote starting and it still didnt even try at all...
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 4:57 PM
OK...check this out...just went back out to finish shoveling snow....and it remote started fine!!! but i did notice that the alarm wasnt on...turned it off and and tried remote starting again...then i actually armed the system and tried remote starting...this is when I get no response. So it appears something is messed up with the 2016 unit in my opinion...anyone else have an idea?
Posted By: ky1960
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 6:18 PM
recheck all the connection to ensure the power work properly and ground
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kvn
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 6:51 PM
that is fine or else the unit wouldnt lock/unlock but yes they are fine...12v directly to battery...ground directly to a ground...i know that much works
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 8:16 PM
After some more playing around this this damn thing....I see this WHITE/ red wire...and by looking at the schematics for my truck it almost looks like the purple GREEN/ black and this WHITE/ red wire are all connected somehow...almost like it tells the truck that its locked and unlock...which maybe causing some problem But this still doesnt have anything to do with the remote start not even turning the ignition circuit on during remote start would it? Anyone know anything about this WHITE/ red wire? It actually show the GREEN/ black to be the lock and the purple to be the unlock but they are both switched between this WHITE/ red wire that is switched to something also
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 8:23 PM
Posted By: chiarlanza
Date Posted: February 13, 2006 at 3:04 PM
I have installed valet 562T's in 3 different Toyota Tacomas (2005). Never had a single problem w/ any of them. You do need it install a bypass module, and connect it to the key sense wire accordingly. Even though the trucks don't have factory "alarms", there is a theft deterrant system, and if not connected properlly, the truck will not start. Other then that, the install in these trucks are simple and straight forward.
Posted By: chiarlanza
Date Posted: February 13, 2006 at 3:08 PM
For the lock and unlock, I used: UNLOCK: Green / Black (In the drivers Kick panel, Pin # 8 on the 10 Pin Plug) LOCK: Purple (In the drivers Kick panel, Pin # 4 on the 10 Pin Plug) You have to dig for these wires, they are burried a bit. 1 negative pulse on the unlock wire does the drivers door, a double pulse will do the remainer.
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 6:26 AM
Thanks but let me clear something up....the unit doesn't even turn the ignition on let alone try to start...when it works it works fine...when sitting for a wile and i try to remote start it doesn nothing at all...doesnt even turn the ignition on nothing..just locks the doors and that is it. i tried removing brake, doorpin, siren harness with same problem....removed harness with blue/black wire and then it started fine with both of these removed...plugged blue/black harness back into alarm and removed from DEI (which is the only wire I am using from this harness) and it would not start... i have no idea what the problem is...i do not have the factory alarm but should it be sending a (-) pulse using the ORANGE / black wire to something??? could it be the door lock detectin switch causing the issue from it not starting??
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 8:55 AM
OK...well it wouldn't start this morning tried numerous times...tried locking unlocking doors and starting..still nothing...went out to my truck and unlocked (which works fine) Opened the door and tried remote starting and it worked fine..almost like after the truck has been resting for a while a circuit goes to sleep until a door is opened...any idea which circuit it is??
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:02 AM
There are 2 fuses on the power wires, replace both of them with new ones. Sometimes there is a small break in the fuse that you can not see, but the systems will not recognize power going through the fuse ( or if there is it will be a reduced voltage ). If you want to confirm that your wiring is correct, start the truck, hit the remote start button and wait for the RS system to take over the truck. Remove the key and if the vehicle stays running with the HVAC system still running, then you have the wiring correct. If it shuts down after you remove the key, you missed an IGN /ACC wire somewhere or the CPU of the RS is damaged.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:06 AM
yep that all works fine...spoke to a local shop today and they said sometimes the tach wire can screw up the remote start...i hooked the tach wire up to the ODBII BLACK/ white as the directions indicated. And while running tach mode it was acting kinda weird flashing the lights....so I disconnected the tach wire and set RS to tachless mode...gonna wait until i leave work for the day to see how it is...almost like that BLACK/ white wire is hot for awhile and then goes to sleep???making the remote start think it doesnt have a valid tach source anymore? i will keep my fingers crossed.....anyone know where a good tach source is or is tachless mode fine?
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:29 AM
Tachless is not a good route to go ( IMO ). For my Tacoma ( 4.0L ) I used data link connector wire (BLACK/ WHITE) and it worked fine. If you were having problems with this wire, you can always go to an injector wire instead.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:38 AM
hmm...when you say data link connector are you talking about the ODBII connector or the connector at the ECM?
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 10:58 AM
The data link connector is under the driver side dash pin #9
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 14, 2006 at 11:26 AM
OK well when i use the tach finder mode on my alarm it does not work...i need to find another tach reference wire that actually works
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 6:37 AM
I did check the brake...it does turn unit on and off..i even put a diode on it so it wouldnt get any feedback from car...hooked up keysense wire and 556u w/diode...and.....still doing the same thing. I moved the ground this morning but I don't think that is the problem becuase it still locks and unlocks I do not get any lights flashing nothing at all...it just locks the doors...it doesnt turn ignition on..seems like if i open and then close the door it works fine But I am only having this issue after it was been sitting for awhile..so i don't know what the deal is. Any other ideas?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 7:16 AM
Sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with this thing.
It's time to actualy troubleshoot, and find & correct the source of the problem.........just throwing different ideas at it doesn't help.
You do have some sort of circuit tester, right? People here are always debating test light vs. LED test light vs. multimeter.....but we can try to save the debate for another time........ you do have something to test with, correct?
1. You need access to the system for testing, but you also need to duplicate the problem.
First, drop the brain down from wherever you've put it, so you can easily probe all of the plugs with your tester...... don't unplug or modify it, just drop it to the floor.
Next, Unbolt the driver's doorpin switch, so it is no longer operative. Open a window so you can't be locked out.
Third, Get your circuit tester ready.
Fourth, arm the alarm, go make a sandwich or something, and wait until the system no longer works.
Fifth, test EVERY wire at the brain for proper function, paying particular attention to the brake, hood, and remote-start-control-switch inputs. Something must be wrong.
--------------------------------
A few thoughts:
--Like Velocity Motors said, tach is better. But those trucks will start tachless too.
At any rate, temporarily running tachless is a good troubleshooting tool; it rules that out as a possible source of the problem.
Also, typically, a wrong tach wire will NOT cause the problem you describe. It may have trouble starting, but the ignition would at least still come on.
--Toyotas with immobilizer key: If your immobilizer bypass is incorrect, the ignition will still work and the starter will crank; the engine just won't start. Sounds like this is not your problem.
--Toyotas with factory alarm: Even without the keysense wire, it'll remote-start and run fine; the alarm will sound, that's all. Even if you did have an alarm....this isn't your problem.
--Remote start not coming on at all: This often means that one of the safety inputs is being tripped. Hoodpin, brake, control switch, would all cause this----check them carefuly.
Even if you didn't install all of the safety features, still doesn't mean the wire isn't shorted out to something else by mistake.
You might try tempoarily disconnecting the hood and brake wires, and see if that makes a difference.....although simply testing them would be easier.
--Does your remote starter have what's usually called an "activation input?" That's a wire that, if you jump it to ground for a moment, causes the remote starter to come on....
If it won't respond to your remotes, try the activation input; does that work all the time? If so, time to consider the antenna, antenna cable, remote, or brain.
--How come you ran the constant power wire to the battery? There is no need for it, although it can't hurt. You should have an inline fuse, preferably in a waterproof holder, under the hood near the battery.
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 8:01 AM
First off, i would like to say thank you very much for the great feedback..... OK I actually disconnected the brake and hoodpin the other day with no luck.. Today, I have it in tachless mode with tach wire disconnected, diode on brake switch so system does not get any feedback, diodes on keysense and 556U(even though I really don't think I need this keysense since I do not have factory alarm).. I did disconnect every door trigger connection (3 of them) Going to see what happens in a few hours.. Wonder if this could be causing the issue?
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 12:35 PM
Woohoo...I found the problem...I disconnected my door trigger wires and let it sit for about 3 hours. Remote started and all worked well....So it was narrowed down to being the door trigger wires that Crimestopper told me to use.....Upon checking this site I found the door ajar circuit and tapped into that. So far all is working well..Have to wait until I leave to make sure it is actually working fine, but so far so good. I removed all door trigger wires and only using the door ajar circuit wire located at the instrument cluster. Thank you for all your help!! If you do no hear from me anymore you know its working!!
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 4:45 PM
Well the door ajar circuit doesn't work either :( Trying the dome light circuit now...lets keep our fingers crossed xxxxxxxx
Posted By: diva
Date Posted: February 15, 2006 at 10:42 PM
it sounds like a similar problem i had in an 05 sequoia. i ended up having to hook the keysense wire to the blue -status output wire with a diode. try that but just make sure your diode's facing the right direction which off the top of my head i can't remember but i think if it's neg, then the stripe would be to the car? don't quote me on that part. some dei products will read anything less than 4v as ground so make sure you grab the door triggers at the door pin switches and diode isolate all, as far as parking lights, is there a jumper to switch the polarity on the brain? sorry if any of these answers are repeated, i didn't read through all the replies
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 6:15 AM
Already did that no luck....... OK Well I have the door trigger hooked to the dome light supervision circuit now...The thing is it doesn't think a door is opened are the alarm would go off, right? This is not the case....could it be battery voltage dropping too low after it is resting for a while and it just wont even try to start? Maybe I should try disconnecting unit from battery and wait 3-4 hours..hook it back up and see what happens?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 6:44 AM
Why not just try actual troubleshooting, as mentioned above?
Also, is the truck an automatic? Is the remote start designed for an automatic transmission?
On manual-transmission remote starter models, the door-trigger circuit is an important part of whether the remote start will work or not.......if it's made for automatic transmissions only, it should not matter at all.
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 7:09 AM
yeah its automatic...i do have a capacitor installed for my amps..think this could be causing an issue?? has this ever caused an issue before...on my previous remote start w/o alarm it worked fine all the time...the only wire I have hooked up differently is this door trigger wire...so it has to be the one causing the issues...my previous one had stock alarm and Crimestopper RS999...I removed stock alarm and installed Crimestopper 2016 and now having these issues...used the same exact wires that i used in previous installation with no problems at all...worked all the time!! with this model it wont even turn the ignitio on after it has been resting for some time ::(
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 5:46 AM
OK Tried everything...here is the deal...when the door trigger is removed truck started fine after sitting all night...except the alarm went off after a few seconds of it being started...so now I have to figure out how to wire a relay(s) that is 12v constant when door is closed and ground when open.....or vise versa if i have to....there is also a (+) door trigger
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 7:20 AM
Hmm, that is really really odd; never seen a door trigger prevent a remote start from working before.
On all of the units I've installed, it doesn't matter whether the door is open/closed, alarm is armed/disarmed, or whether the door trigger is even hooked up at all.
I have a co-worker who sold Crimestopper stuff for a while; I'll call him today and see if he knows anything about it.
I know you said the truck is an automatic.....but what about the remote starter itself? Is it designed for automatic-only vehicles, or does it have a manual-transmission mode?
The reason I ask is, I don't know if you know this......but there are units made for manual-transmission cars.
The unit wants to "see" the door opening only at certain times-----if it opens at the wrong time, the unit assumes that someone entered the car, might have bumped into the gearshift, and thefore disables the remote start.
So, if you had a remote start made for a manual-transmission car, and the door trigger wasn't hooked up properly, what you describe might happen.
Also.....you said that even without door trigger connected, the alarm falses when remote starting? The LED on the dash should have a way of telling you what "zone" on the alarm was violated....what was it?
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 8:30 AM
It is for automatic only...as for the zone that is tripped I am not quite sure about this....basically I need to wire a relay that is 12v constant when door closed and constant ground when open(which it already is) I basically just need to keep that wire 12v until a door is open
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 10:31 PM
Why are you hooking up 3 separate door triggers???? Go to the door ajar indicator. It's green white on the back of the fuse box, top plug. Just undo all the 10mm bolts holding it in and the box will flip down to reveal the back of the box. Use this for all doors trigger..... Sorry! this is a long thread and i didn't read far enough. Are you sure your RS is good??? ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 11:27 PM
Again, troubleshoot and correct...... definitely better than trying to Band-Aid with relays and such.
The owner's manual should give instructions on how to find out which zone was violated after the alarm has gone off.
Allow the alarm to false, find out which zone it is, and troubleshoot from there.
Posted By: nokia15291
Date Posted: February 18, 2006 at 12:19 AM
Woooooooohooooooooooooo Found the problem...spoke with crimestopper for about 30 minutes today...Just needed to apply 12v to the hoodpin circuit!!!!! Let it sit for about 6 hours and truck started right up...damn those hoodpin circuits....They also informed me we do not need relays on our 2nd starter wire...just run diode stripe facing away from unit....just run brown to starter one and diode onto starter 2...all works great!!! Thank you everyone for your ideas and help
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