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2000 Mazda 626 bypass trouble

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73337
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 7:49 AM


Topic: 2000 Mazda 626 bypass trouble

Posted By: 97f150ext
Subject: 2000 Mazda 626 bypass trouble
Date Posted: February 22, 2006 at 10:28 PM

Had this car today, couldnt get the remote start to work since the vehicle would not recognize the 556u.  The r/s was the Viper 771XV.  With the key in the ignition, the car would start and run correctly from the remote start.  When tried to remote start by the 556u, the car would start and then die.  When I tried moving the ring or the key, the car would sometimes run for 5-6 seconds before cutting off again.  This car should be as simple as they get, but this one just refused to run off the bypass.  Could there be anything I would be missing or need to re-check to make this bypass work?? 

I tried repositioning the key inside the bypass, using another key, tried another bypass module, moved the ring any and everywhere it was possible to be moved on the key cylinder, and still got the same results.




Replies:

Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: February 22, 2006 at 10:39 PM
When you RS the car can you hear the bypass turning on? If you have your hand on it can you feel the relay click, and did you make the mistake of hooking up the pink wire comming off the 556U. Also when you said the key was in the ignition, it was in but still left in the off spot right?

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer




Posted By: 97f150ext
Date Posted: February 22, 2006 at 10:42 PM
the 556u was working, it clicked over every time.  12 volt, ground and status wires were hooked up off the bypass, no pink.  And when the key was in the ignition, it was still left in the off position.




Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: February 22, 2006 at 10:51 PM
Hmmm, thats interesting. Was the status wire hooked up to the blue or the blue/white on the 771. The Blue/qhite can be switched to a pulse signal for rear defrost and that could cause your problem.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer




Posted By: ossrom
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 2:21 AM
1:   intead of putting the key in the ignition, just put the rubber or plastic part of the key against the key cylender and try the alarm r/s.   if it does not turn on the car may need to see a key sense signal.
if it turns on..........

2:   put the ring of the bypass right against the front of the key cylender, remenber right in front not around.
if it works the reader is only reading to the front of the cylinder, it must have a plastic cover behind it, check and carefuly break a piece of it on the backside so it could read towards the back that should take care of your problem




Posted By: 97f150ext
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 8:40 AM
Ravendarat - I first used the status on the bypass, then tried putting the status on the bypass just to ground to make sure it wasnt the status not working properly.  The bypass would come on like it was suppossed to.

ossrom - I tried the keysense on this car also.  It was the only factory alarm unarm feature directechs listed.  The diasrm no unlock.  Even after powering keysense, the car would still start, run for a couple seconds and die.  There is a red light on the dash that has a key in the background that illuminated every time I tried remote start, so I know it wasnt reading the key.  As for the cylinder, its got a black piece of plastic on the front where the key is inserted, but nothing anything else is plastic. 




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 10:04 AM
This is a classic problem with the universal bypass modules. Here's a tip for you and anyone else using these universal bypass modules. DO NOT use the wire loop that they provide to you with the universal bypass modules as they are too thick. You can only get about 3 maybe 4 wraps before you reach the end of the wire.
What I do and this has worked for every vehicle that I've done ( even those hard to reach '05 Altima's )is cut off the wire loop on the modules and I wire in my own 22 gauge wire from a telephone cable. I wrap the wire around the cylinder about 8-10 times and solder the two ends to the two ends that I cut from the wire loop.

After I wrap the wire tight around the ignition barrel, I usually twist the remainder of the wire like a Glad garbage bag tie wrap at the bottom of the barrel to ensure that it is tight and I hot glue the botton of the barrel to ensure that it won't come loose and so you don't see and hot glue drops.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 11:47 AM
I believe on that car you have to get a transponder ring from Mazda. Download Techtip 1061 from directechs and you will see what I mean. I'm not sure why directwire doesn't have a note to look at that techtip anymore for that car. I did one a couple years ago. The part was only around $20 or so from my Mazda dealership and they had to order it. It only took a day or two to get.

I think the reason you can't use a 556U is because the car reads the key from the inside section of the factory transponder ring. When you wrap your wire or bypass ring around the outside it doesn't pick up the signal.





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