1998 Silverado, Door lock?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73510
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 12:24 PM

Topic: 1998 Silverado, Door lock?

Posted By: mtzracing
Subject: 1998 Silverado, Door lock?
Date Posted: February 25, 2006 at 11:52 PM

The vehical: 1998 Silverado Crew Cab PU

The problem: Niether door lock button will operate the locks, but the key fobe remote will. Could the driver side control pod be the problem? Sorry but I'm not an installer just an owner trying to find a solution.

Replies:

Posted By: tom badger
Date Posted: February 26, 2006 at 12:31 AM

Check for a blown fuse. If fuse is good, check your wiring with a meter.

LIGHT BLUE, located IN EITHER DOOR BOOT

Locks are Type C - if no factory keyless entry or 2 Door, but
4-Door or WITH Factory Keyless Entry, locks are Type A.

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The Badger

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 8:47 PM

No blown fuse and the actuators work with the key remote. Would a failure of the driver door button pod cause the passenger door button not to work as well?

Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:00 PM

Shouldn't...

First thing to check is is there a positive pulse showing up at either the light blue or white wire at the door lock relay located on the accel. pedal bracket. You should also see if there is 12V all the time on the orange wire at either switch.

Did anything else up and stop working at the same time, or is it just the door locks?

Gus

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:22 PM

Gus, thanks I will check the things you mention. No other failures have been noted.

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 7:10 PM

There is no voltage at the orange or blue wires with the key off or on. I replaced the relay (relay #2) down at the parking brake next to the trailer flasher as it was the only one to be found. I've check every fuse I could find, all in the dash location and one 5 amp I found down at the foot controls. Still the same problem.??

Posted By: jeosnh
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 7:31 PM

I am pretty sure that this is true, and that would also make sense that the remote works becuase it doesn't use the door switch to lock/unlock the doors. Also, if the remote works it can't be the dr lk relay becuase then the remote wouldn't work either. I would take a closer look at both of the switches, 'cause if either one was bad it would cause that problem.

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 8:15 PM

Assuming I found the correct relay, the remote works with it unpluged. There is no power to the orange or blue wire, I assume one or the other should have power at all times to the switch.

Thanks,

MTZ

Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: March 01, 2006 at 2:50 PM

Things that are hot all the time on GM's are usually in the fusebox under the hood, driver's side. There should be one for the locks in there... 15A from what I rememebr.
Gus

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: March 01, 2006 at 6:59 PM

First, thanks for not giving up on me. No fuses show to be blown. I have not found any fuse or relay that is identified as being for the door locks. I have inspected all fuses on the Driver side dash location and under the hood. ???

Door buttons do not operate locks.
Remote will operate locks.
No power to the orange wire at the door button.
No blown fuse to be found.
Relay??? I replaced one at the parking brake bracket next to the Trailer Flasher.

Posted By: mtzracing
Date Posted: March 06, 2006 at 12:06 AM

Turns out to be a voltage drop to the switch. I don't know what that means or how my friend fixed it but it works now.

Posted By: keither
Date Posted: March 06, 2006 at 1:11 AM

GM's are notorious for their switches dying and creating havoc due to their bull*hit wiring technics.
Check each switch for power going out when you lock, then unlock.
This system has no relay to it. It uses each switch as a pivot(reverse polarity) to work off of each other to conclude the desired result(lock & unlock).
Your alarm system works because the installer had to make his own relay pack to mimic this protocol.
Once you find the defective switch, simply replace it. Everything will work fine after that.