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Progressive Door Unlock 791XV 03 Ram

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74598
Printed Date: June 16, 2024 at 4:07 AM


Topic: Progressive Door Unlock 791XV 03 Ram

Posted By: richy007
Subject: Progressive Door Unlock 791XV 03 Ram
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 6:36 PM

I been reading the posts relating to this feature, but none of them refer to a 2003 Dodge Ram.

My question is, since the same wire is used in the truck to unlock and lock all four doors; how do I connect the progressive door unlock feature from a DEI Viper 791xv to the truck's wiring? The truck came with OEM Keyless entry system.

I know that I have to program the remote to work when I press the unlock/disarm button, within 20 seconds from unlocking the driver door, but I don't know how to connect the wires from the alarm to the the truck's wiring?

Can anybody tell me how to do this?

Thank you




Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 6:47 PM
To accomplish a 2 step unlock on this truck, you would have to use a 5 wire system to the driver's door actuator's unlock wire (blue driver's kick) using the blue - unlock wire from the Viper brain to trigger the relay. Then use the H2 light blue to trigger a relay to send 330ohm - to the oem unlock wire (WHITE/ green).

Hope this helps




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 6:59 PM

You mean like this?

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks
Like the configuration above, the switch, when moved in either direction, applies both power and ground directly to motor legs  without the use of any relays. Except, at the switch in this case, both motor legs rest at ground . Therefore it is only necessary to change the polarity of one motor leg to lock or unlock the vehicle.
 
posted_image



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 7:09 PM
YES, but you only need the unlock side of that diagram.




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 7:16 PM

Thank You Twelvoltz.

This set up will unlock the driver door when I press the disarm button once.

The second time i press the button will unlock the remaining doors, do this I connect the wire from output 4 using the original set up.

I got it!!

Thank you.



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 7:16 PM

I connected the wires as shown in the diagram, but it does not work.

I get no response from the driver door, it does unlock when I press the disarm button on the remote a second time, but not the first.

I checked all the wires with a multimeter, I do get power coming out of the relay. There are two blue wires in the kickpanel that go into the door. One is for the power mirror and the other one I imagine is for the motor. 

Do I have to use any resistors or diodes for this install?

Can you tell me what am I doing wrong? posted_image



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 7:22 PM
Switch is in the door, I dont know if you can catch the motor wire in the kick, you might have to go into the door for it. To test this wire, test for voltage change when you rock the switch, then when it tests cut the wire in half. One side should give you voltage when you press unlock, the other wire shouldnt do jack. Thats your wire.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 7:32 PM
Raven, I cannot say for 100% the actuator motor is in the kick, but it lists it as so on the DEI tech site.

OK, try this. Try to trigger the relays manually to verify you are on the correct wires. Just take a jumper from ground and tap it to the connection on the relay that comes from the brain of the aftermarket system. One relay should only unlock the driver's door and the other should unlock them both. When you cut the unlock wire for the driver's door did you verify it had 12V when unlocking and that the driver's door did not operate when you cut it? You do not need any additional resistors, the 330ohm you have connected to the 'all doors' connection should do it for the unlock portion.




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 7:33 PM

Ravendarat;

So I connected to the blue wire that comes from the switch or the blue wire that goes into the motor/door trigger harnnes?

Do I worry about a ground wire?

Is the input from the relay enough to run the motor?



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 7:39 PM

Ok.

Let me try both of these solutions.



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 8:28 PM

richy007 wrote:

So I connected to the blue wire that comes from the switch or the blue wire that goes into the motor/door trigger harnnes?


The wire that is in question comes from the switch to the motor.  This is why I asked about metering the wire.  Ravendarat explained it thoroughly.

richy007 wrote:

Do I worry about a ground wire?


The only negative required for the relay is the one sent by the remote starter brain to activate it.

richy007 wrote:

Is the input from the relay enough to run the motor?


The relay is just acting as a switch turned on and off by the negative trigger output of the remote starter.  When active pins 30 and 87 are connected and in this case providing +12V directly to the doorlock actuator to unlock.  When the relay is not active pins 30 and 87a are connected allowing +12V to be supplied by the factory switch when you press unlock on the door.  The supply to 30 would be enough providing you are feeding with a fused +12V.

Hope this helps!

Keep us posted.





Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 8:32 PM

I triple checked my connections and the motor still does not respond.

When I cut the blue wire I verified that the motor did not respond and there was no current.

There is current coming from the switch.

The relay does send a positive signal to the wire going into the motor but the motor does not respond. It only responds when I press the disarm button a second time or when I use the door switch.

HELP!!!



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 8:48 PM
There was no current when you pressed unlock on the switch with the wire cut? Or current at all times?

Does the passenger door unlock when you press the remote twice or just the driver's door?




Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 8:53 PM

It sounds like you have the Unlock wires mixed up:

H2 / 1 Light Blue from 791 should be hooked to your 330 ohm Resistor ( with Relay if you are using them )

3 PIN Light Blue wire from 791 should go to your Driver Priority Door Unlock Relay.



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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 9:17 PM

Twelvoltz;

When I cut the wire there is current when I press the door switch.  (the wire is coming from the switch, which is connected to the relay on 87a.)

There is positive current only when I press the switch.

All four doors open when I press the disarm button twice, which is what I wanted.

The driver door is the one that does not respond when I press the disarm button once, the alarm does deactivate but the door does not unlock.

Mo12v;

I did connect the h2/1 light blue wire to another relay which unlocks all doors when I press the disarm button twice.

the blue wire coming from the 3 pin is connected to a relay which should only open the driver door.

I check the output coming out from the relay and it does supply a positive output coming from pin 30. This wire is connected to the blue wire that goes into the motor.

I don't know what else to do.

Any ideas??? HELP!!!



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 9:56 PM
I have an alternate color wire ( PINK/BLACK ) at the DKP wired in a 5 wire set up. Test this wire and post your results.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 20, 2006 at 10:12 PM
Will try it tomorrow.

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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 22, 2006 at 10:30 PM

I looked and I did not find any pink/black wire in the driver kick panel.

I took off the door panel and found four wires going into the motor/door trigger harness.

One is blue, one BLACK/ green, one tan, and one tan/orange.

will any of these work?

I am thinking the blue is the same one as the one I found in the dkp.



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: richy007
Date Posted: March 24, 2006 at 9:32 AM

Can anybody help me with this?

How do I unlock the driver door on a 03 RAM, quad cab.

I want the driver door to unlock when I disarm the alarm. The other three doors will disarm when I press the disarm button a second time.

I used a 5 wire set up in order to isolate, there is power coming out of the relay but the motor does not respond.

I connected the wire from the relay to the blue wire in the DKP, is there another wire I can use to accomplish this progressive door unlock set up?

Thank you.



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Amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 24, 2006 at 9:51 AM

richy007 wrote:

I check the output coming out from the relay and it does supply a positive output coming from pin 30. This wire is connected to the blue wire that goes into the motor.

If you test this wire and this wire goes to (+) when you press the unlock button on the driver's door lock swtich & you said that you also applied 12(+) directly to this wire and it did nothing, then you may have another wire in the motor that requires something else while the BLUE wire gets 12 volts. You mentioned that there's 4 wires in the motor, you will need to meter each of these wires to see what each does when you press the switch to unlock and then use relays to mimic the same as the wires you tested.

It sounds odd that you will need to do this, but if the unlock motor requires two things to happen to engage, then you will need two relays to accomplish this.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA





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