99 Alero Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=7594
Printed Date: May 13, 2024 at 10:09 PM
Topic: 99 Alero Remote Start
Posted By: rh_alero
Subject: 99 Alero Remote Start
Date Posted: January 03, 2003 at 11:41 AM
Hi, I'm installing a remote start/keyless entry/alarm system in my 99 Alero. I've read the wiring diagram information for the car, but there are still a couple things I am unsure of. First, I'm a little confused as to whether I need to install relays, as in relay link on the top left for a positive 5 wire locking system, or if I just have to directly connect the alarm lock to the white, and the alarm unlock + 1.5K ohm in series to the white? Second question is when bypassing the Passlock II, what is the wiring diagram I use to temporarily disable the Passlock? I've measured the resistance of the ignition switch. I wasn't able to follow the information on the web site: https://www.internationalelect.com/vatts.htm Do I use the 2 or 4 relay bypass circuit, or a different one? Thanks for the help! -RH
Replies:
Posted By: brianh
Date Posted: January 03, 2003 at 7:29 PM
All you need to do is to connect the lock wire from the alarm staight to the white door loc/unlock wire in the car. Then connect the unlock wire from the car through a 1.5K resistior to the white door lock wire. That should fix your door locks. Brian
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 03, 2003 at 9:40 PM
Thanks! I've bypassed the passlock II with a resistor and connected the ignition, starter, accessory, and 12V wires. I'll try the lock/unlocks tomorrow.  -RH
Posted By: brianh
Date Posted: January 04, 2003 at 4:14 AM
No problem. Let me know how it works out. Brian
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 04, 2003 at 3:52 PM
I took the lock trigger off the door and found the white wire, but I don't know how I'm going to run the alarm wire there. Does anyone know if the white wire for the door lock/unlock runs somewhere easier to run my wire, like near the BCM? I found an old post by Jeff at Velocity motors mentioning that a white wire for power unlock is at the back of the fuse panel. Is this the same wire?
Another question...where's the easiest and best place to run a wire through the firewall for a hood pin?
Thanks,
-RH
Posted By: brianh
Date Posted: January 04, 2003 at 4:08 PM
You should be able to find that white wire in the drivers kick panel. Be sure to test the wire before you connect to it. To run a wire through the firewall you need to first look for a rubber gromet that is not used(from the factory) You can usually find one. If not you will need to drill ahole through. Look, look,and then look again to make sure that you dont hit any wires,fuel lines ect... Then use silicone caulk to keep the weather out. Good luck Brian
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 04, 2003 at 8:48 PM
Things went pretty well tonight. I got the lock/unlocks working and the trunk release. I found the white wire in the drivers kick panel as you mentioned. Thanks! The starter works too! I'm going to wait till I have more time to install the hood pin.
I ran into another stumbling block while I was trying to connect the door triggers. I found the driver's side in the kick panel. I'm having a hard time finding the passenger side door trigger. It's stated as a light blue wire found at the BCM. I also remember someone mentioning it went along the drivers floor panel and under the seats. I probed 7 light blue wires around that area with no luck. I was looking for 12V as it is negative triggered. Anyone know if I'm doing this correct? Is it really a light blue wire?
Thanks,
-RH
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 7:33 AM
Hi, I forgot to mention that I have a 4 dr Alero. Maybe the trigger wire for the passenger plus rear doors is a different colour. Can anyone confirm this wire colour and location? Thanks, -RH
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 12:05 PM
This is what I have: The lt. GREEN/ black is located in the drivers kick and catches only the drivers door. The lt. blue is located in the harness coming from the drivers running board going under the drivers seat and it catches all other doors. Use both door trigger wires and diode isolate each. On the 2 door the lt.blue is in the passenger kick. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 12:37 PM
Thanks for the info! I found the drivers trigger no problem in the drivers kick. I probed 6 different lt. blue wires in the drivers running board and could not find the other trigger. Maybe I should try looking in the passenger side kick... Regards, -RH
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: January 08, 2003 at 12:16 AM
Actually the light Blue wires should be accesible underneath the passenger's dash at the BCM. Use a diode to isolate each trigger. I installed a remote start/keyless/trunk on Monday in a 2000 Alero. I just ran my wires through firewall beside the speedo cable. Just use a piece of coat hanger to pull the wire through. if your going through that trouble you might as well run a tach wire too. Makes starting much more relaible. The first time everytime.
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Steve G
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 13, 2003 at 1:51 PM
Thanks for your suggestions! I'm going to wait till things warm up a bit before I try looking for the wire again. If I put a wire through the firewall, I'll probably put a few through for any future things... After using my car starter for a week, I noticed a couple other things that have come up. The heater blower does not start when the car is started with the remote starter. I thought I connected the HVAC wire correctly, but I guess I'll have to confirm. Also, the engine light has been on permanently since the remote starter was installed. I diode isolated the one door trigger, do I need to diode isolate anything else? Thanks, -RH
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: January 13, 2003 at 2:01 PM
Thats happened to me before so now I check to make sure the blower works and the A/C before I tuck all my wires away and close up the dash. Nothing sucks more than taking it all apart again because thier were more than one accessory wires that needed to be powered. Or again in the summer because the heater worked but the A/C wasn't engaging due to a missing power wire. I just added a few relays to my own vehicle that force the blower on high whenever the the remote starter is on. I seem to forget to set my heat controls to high when I exit the vehicle...lol. Now they come on automatically every time. The engine light could have something to do with your Passlock 2 bypass. If the resistance isn't exactly right it will cause that idiot light to come on. Some are hard to tweak exactly so the last time that happened to me, I got it as close as possible and then permanantly bypassed the factory Passlock 2. By engaging the bypass module everytime the ignition was powered. This means even when you use the key. That way the computer never sees a difference in the resistances and doesn't give you that warning light. Hope everything turns out well. Good luck.
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Steve G
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 14, 2003 at 11:37 AM
I did permanently bypass the passlock 2 with a resistor. I thought if I got it wrong, I would see the security light come on. Did you just replace the resistance of the ignition switch with an equal resistor, or did you somehow engage the bypass module when the ignition was powered. If so, how did you do that? Are there other wires going to the bypass module I should know about besides the yellow and ORANGE / black? Thanks, -RH
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: January 14, 2003 at 4:30 PM
If your security light isn't the culprit then there's no need to permantly bypass the Passlock system. I thought that you said the security light was staying on. The engine light might be just from having troubles with the passlock and the computer sent you a warning. Might need to be reset by the dealer or try disconnecting the battery cable to the vehicle for 10 minutes. That may clear it out. But to answer your question...attach the +12 volt relay turn on lead (pin 85 or 86) to the Ignition wire and the other lead for turn on (pin 85 or 86) to chassis ground. Everytime you turn the ignition on by key or remote start the vehicle the passlock bypass will be engaged. OEM Passlock will remain permantly bypassed. Make sure your Ignition source for 12 volts is the one that is powered during remote start. ------------- Steve G
Posted By: Auto_Obsessions
Date Posted: January 14, 2003 at 9:20 PM
Make it easy on yourself and purchase a passlock 2 bypass module from dei.
Posted By: themagicone
Date Posted: January 14, 2003 at 9:32 PM
Could be that you got the 2nd ingingtion wrong, I did that a few times. Also, to get threw the firewall go to a hobby shop and buy a short peice of brass tubing 1/4 inch works great and sharpen one end - presto push right threw factory ruber gromets and then just push your wires threw the middle - pull the tube out on the other side and your done!
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 18, 2003 at 2:54 PM
I'll give this stuff a try out when things get a bit warmer here. It's -20C here right now. The copper tubing sounds like a good idea too.
Thanks,
-RH
Posted By: rh_alero
Date Posted: January 29, 2003 at 8:55 PM
Found the passenger door trigger at the passenger BCM!
Also got the heater blower working. I had the accessory from the remote starter to the accessory on the Alero. Supposed to connect to the HVAC.
Thanks all for your help!
-RH
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: January 30, 2003 at 12:04 PM
The blower should work fine by connecting to the accessory as long as you have both ignition wires powered. Glad you got it all working though.
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Steve G
Posted By: romadoor
Date Posted: February 03, 2003 at 7:53 AM
make sure you powered the dark green wire, the orange wire and the brown wire to get your heater and ac working.
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