01 tahoe red with white stripe wire?

If it goes into the igniton, it's a second constant wire.  Most diagrams don't actually list it as a second source of constant +12 but it is.  It's also in a lot of gm cars and trucks.

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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

I do believe that its a LOW Ampreage 2nd constant 12v wire. Accesories should never be hooked up to it.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Ravendarat wrote:

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I do believe that its a LOW Ampreage 2nd constant 12v wire. Accesories should never be hooked up to it.

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Is there anyone who can confirm that this wire is a low amperage wire? The wire is pretty heavy in size (at least 12ga if not 10ga), and I have used it in the past as a second hot supply. DEI does not list this wire as a secondary constant supply option. I am just a hobbiest that has friends in the business. I asked them if I should use the RED / white as a secondary supply to keep from drawing too much from the single red and was told that I should be using the RED / white as a supply too. I have several vehicles out there using the RED / white as a second supply and have not had any issues at all with comebacks or reports of any malfunctions. Does anyone have access to information on this subject, or can say for sure what kind of supply this wire offers? If it is indeed a low amperage wire I will have to make some phone calls and get the vehicles back to fix the issue.

News to me a well.  I've used that as a secondary constant for years, never had a problem with it in the past.  The first time I did hook up to that wire I remember pulling fueses to find out what fuse provided power.  I thinking it was a 40 or 60.  Though I don't remember for sure.

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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

There is RED / white wire in both the ignition harness and one that goes into the brown plug of the BCM. The thick 10 gauge wire in the ignition harness is the secondary battery feed to the ignition switch. It supplies power through the ignition switch to the brown and orange accessory and second ignition circuits when the key is turned. It is fused for 60 amps and is more than capable of supplying other add on accessories. If installing a remote starter you must grab power from both it and the solid red 10 gauge wire if your remote starter has two main power wires. Doing so distrubutes the load evenly. There is also a small 18 gauge wire in the brown plug of the BCM. Never tap into this wire as is a 12 volt reference wire for the trucks Passlock II system. It is not designed to handle any load other than what the Passlock system presents. As for your feedback problem on the ignition, you may have also moved or redone something else in the process of rewiring to fix the problem. Simply changing the source out to the battery wouldn't do anything that affects the ignition. You could also have a bad ignition switch. You should check your truck to make sure that you don't still have an excess draw on your battery. The draw on the battery should not exceed 50 ma.

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sparky

Thank you for the confirmation Sparkie, I was pretty confident that the RED / white 10ga was indeed an additional supply to the keyswitch, but after reading the earlier posts it had me concerned.

Thank You again.

this RED / wht wireis low current i installed aps 997 on 05 denali and used it & solid red wire for r/s constant 12v  input sytem worked fine but on 4/17/06 when i added dei 530t window rollup module and tap it (RED / wht) for +12v supply rollup was slow and it drain battery had to wait 30 min for battery to build back up this wire is cool for r/s but i will never used it for any other constant supply

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8d
crawford7827@bellsouth.net

A window roll up module requires a large amount of current to roll up two or more windows while the truck is running. It may require 25 to 30 amps. This is too much of a load for this circuit. You should have run a fused line off the battery or underhood fuse panel for power. This is what the factory does to power the windows. Using the RED / white to power a remote starter is proper as it is only duplicting what current requirements the truch needs when you use the key. The only difference is a another couple of amperes to power the logic circuits of the remote starter. If you try and draw 25 amps off the RED / white for the windows while the truck is running you are probably at or just exceeding the current limits of the circuit. Rethink your power supply circuits. The 10 gauge RED / white wire is fused at 60 amps underhood. I would not say that this is a low current circuit.

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sparky

Thanks Sparkie for your consise reply the info is well recieved

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8d
crawford7827@bellsouth.net

I am glad I could help.

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sparky