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Avital Quick Start melting fuse

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=80757
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 1:54 AM


Topic: Avital Quick Start melting fuse

Posted By: Spit
Subject: Avital Quick Start melting fuse
Date Posted: July 25, 2006 at 6:39 PM

My daughter's 1997 Chevy Blazer SUV, has a Hurricane (not a Hurricane II) alarm system with an Avital Quick-Start (add-on remote starter.)  This was all installed by a previous owner.   Since the time she owned the truck, the remote starter has given us trouble.  We have fused it with a 30 amp fuse (I think it's only supposed to be a 20 amp.  It really doesn't  "blow" fuse..it literally overheats and melts the green plastic bridge between the two legs (spade terminals) of the fuse.  Eventually the heat will burn up the entire fuse & fuse holder too for that matter.

It only seems to overheat and melt the fuse when the truck is remote started and left to run with the heater or AC on for a fairly long time, like you might do in the winter to warm it up or summer to cool it down.

I am wondering if it was mis-wired when installed.  What I notice is when I remote start it the voltage gauge for the alternator will only be reading 9-10 volts until I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the run position, then the voltage gauge will read up to the full 13.5 -14 volts that it normally does.

Has anyone seen anything like this before?  Does anyone have an idea of where I should look.  I'm thinking that somehow all the current needs for the truck are running through this fuse until the key is turned to run.  Help!!

Thanks

Spit




Replies:

Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: July 25, 2006 at 8:25 PM
The current needs for the truck are way above 20 or even 30 amps. It needs to be rewired so the current isn't all flowing through a single power wire. How to do that would be way too complicated to explain here.

The voltage gauge reading 9-10 volts is a sign that the alternator is not being turned on when remote started. An ignition wire is probably not hooked up.

I would recommend your daughter stop using the remote start before she damages the vehicle. A fire or burned wires could easily happen.

A shop may be willing to rewire things correctly, but you have a very old system in there. They would probably be better off removing everything then installing it from scratch. When I worked in the business, I would have charged around $200 labor. A new alarm system with remote start would be around $400 installed with a lifetime warranty. You would also be able to get replacement parts for a new system. I believe replacements parts (remotes) are no longer available for te Hurricane.




Posted By: Spit
Date Posted: August 01, 2006 at 10:56 PM

JWorm,

Is it possible to get a wiring diagram for the Q-Start?   I could check the actual wiring to what the diagram shows.

I thought I read something on a post somewhere that said the Blazer had 2 ignition wires?  Maybe only one of them is being used when both should be?

Thanks for your help

Spit





Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: August 02, 2006 at 8:59 AM
i would go with the new system.. not work rewiring an old one..

you could install it yourself. you will fng most connection as you remove the old system. then rectify teh remote start when re-installing

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power




Posted By: supersix4
Date Posted: August 02, 2006 at 10:26 AM

The second ignition in these GM vehicles is to "turn on" the Auto Trans. If it wasn't hooked up, the trucks' trans would probably be dead by now. Buuuut ... check it anyhow. It is a White or Pink w/ White Stripe wire - usually just white, though.

I am somewhat familiar w/ that old remote start. It has two (2) Main Power Wires - Red - about 12 Ga wires. It is a common shortcut to cut one of those Main Power Wires off short - close to the RS control module & then splice it in to the other red wire. This would make the install marginally easier for the installer - only 1 red wire to run & hook up. To fix this, look the RS harness over carefully - you should be able to see if/where the shortcut was taken. If it was done, just undo the connection and extend & run the second red wire to +12V - FUSE IT! Use a length of wire that is of at least the same gauge.

This MAY correct the low voltage condition you are experiencing, as well. If not, try this ...

Remote start the truck w/ the A/C on. This is when you experience the low voltage condition, correct? Now, without putting the key in the ignition, put your foot on the gas - raise the engine speed a bit. Does the voltage raise to the "normal" level? If so, the Alt is not turning on - the engine is not at a high enough rpm while idling w/ the A/C on. This could indicate an Alt problem. It could also be a broblem w/ the engines' computer - it is supposed to be able to tell if the A/C is on & raise the engines rpm to compensate fot the additional load. Might be time for a trip to a GM mechanic.



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