Ultrastart 2256M, 89 Accord

Okay, so I recentely purchased an Ultrastart 2256M Remote start alarm (for manual trans) for my 89 Accord. Anyhow, the install of this alarm was pretty basic into my Accord. I have a couple of questions though. I've installed about 4-5 remote start alarms before this one, but they have all been DEI Systems. Anyhow, I have partially installed the alarm flawlessly into my car, but there are 2 things that I need to ask before hooking these up!

The alarm states that my Siren wire is a positive (+) 250ma wire… which to me means that it needs to be relayed in order for it to make my siren work. But I’m wondering if I’m wrong about this… maybe the siren has a built in relay? Anyway to find out if the siren does have a built in relay, or would it just be safer to do a relay? The manual just doesn’t seem to say…

Also, the alarm was supposed to have an anti-grind system… which I thought to be similar to DEI setup, 2 wires (green and purple wire) one for the key side and one for the starter side. But this alarm did not come with that feature… even though it said it did. I came across this situation in the last remote start system that I installed in my moms corolla (DEI Valet 561R), which consisted of running a relay to make the anti-grind system work. So I did the same thing for this alarm on my Accord. Just so you know what I did…

I hooked up a fused positive lead to pin 85, the Orange (ground while running 250ma) wire to pin 86, tapped on to the starter side of the wire to pin 30, and lastly hooked up the key side of the starter wire to pin 87a.

Anyhow, now that works just fine and dandy… but it appears that I need to use that same Orange (250ma ground) wire to temporarily bypass my clutch only during remote start. Now my question is… is it safe for me to run 2 relays off of the same wire? Or do I need to relay that Orange 250ma wire with a true ground and then use that true ground for my other 2 relays (anti grind & clutch bypass)? I hope that makes sense to someone. Anyhow, if any of you can help me out here, I would greatly appreciate it… as you all know the cold season is pretty much here.

TIA!

You should be fine triggering 2 relays off of the orange out put, just diode isolate to be safe.  As far as the siren goes i believe its a direct hook up. I wish I could help more but I am thinking that is an older model and ultra has been making quite a few changes between the old and the new models.

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gsus,

Save the guess work. Just add in a relay.

"would it just be safer to do a relay?"


'Anyhow, now that works just fine and dandy… but it appears that I need to use that same Orange (250ma ground) wire to temporarily bypass my clutch only during remote start. Now my question is… is it safe for me to run 2 relays off of the same wire? Or do I need to relay that Orange 250ma wire with a true ground and then use that true ground for my other 2 relays (anti grind & clutch bypass)? I hope that makes sense to someone. Anyhow, if any of you can help me out here, I would greatly appreciate it… as you all know the cold season is pretty much here."


The Orange 250ma will be about to handle two relays. Make sure you add a diode with the correct side going in between the relays and the remote starter unit so that you won't encounter any feedback and damage the remote starter unit.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Hey guys, I'm stumped on how I can go about bypassing my clutch during remote start (I have an ultrasstart 2256m). I just need to figure out what type of clutch system I have. I've done a few searches and found a very good & informative post by another member oh here (post can be found here). Anyhow, my clutch has 2 wires running into it. A pink wire and a black wire, neither wire read any voltage.

So I tested for ground… I did that by connecting my positive probe from my multimeter to a positive feed wire, and connect the ground wire to wire to the black wire and then to the pink wire. 12V show up when a ground is found. Here is how it worked

Black wire
With out the pedal pressed:
test the wire with the Ignition OFF – GROUND
test the wire with the Ignition ON - GROUN
test the wire with the key in the start position - GROUND
With the pedal pressed;
test the wire with the Ignition OFF - GROUND
test the wire with the Ignition ON - GROUND
test the wire with the key in the start position - GROUND
Pink wire
With out the pedal pressed:
test the wire with the Ignition OFF - GROUND
test the wire with the Ignition ON - GROUND
test the wire with the key in the start position – GROUND
With the pedal pressed;
test the wire with the Ignition OFF – NO GROUND
test the wire with the Ignition ON – NO GROUND
test the wire with the key in the start position – NO GROUND

Do any of you guys know what clutch system I have? I thought it was a Normally Closed(N/C) switch… but when I removed the plug from the clutch pedal… the car didn’t start. If any of you guys could help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. I’m going to go out and double check the wires again... maybe I’m doing something wrong.

NEVERMIND!! I figured it out! turns out my car has two clutch switches... but if either switch is unplugged it will prevent my car from running.

I installed an Ultrastart 2256M into my 89 Accord (about 2 weeks ago) which did not come with factory locks... so I got some aftermarket actuators and installed them. They worked fine with the alarm for a while, but now they are not responding... I was originally going to install them to a momentary 2-way switch (the one that controls my broken antenna) to manually control the locks from the inside.. but I haven't had a chance to. I tried to throw a ground signal at the thing gauge locking wires going into the DEI 451m relay... but all it does is make the ralay click (actuators do not respond). I tested the actuators for ground and they are both reading ground when they are not activated. Anyhow here is a diagram of how my wires are currently run:



Did I mess up my relays or did I mess up my actuators?

One of them is for the cruise.

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Tacomacrew

Scott35 wrote:

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One of them is for the cruise.

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That makes sense, sort of. But I'm not sure why they made it so that if either of the plugs are disconnected it disables the starting feature with the clutch pressed.

Bump!

Still looking for some input on my door lock actuators and/or DEI relay. Could it just be my

TIA

So now I'm pretty certain that my relay is fine, aside from the fact that I can hear it click over. So does this mean that I somehow managed to fry my actuators? both of them? Is there any way to test them?

relay diagram provided on this site:


based on the spare 451m that i took apart, I basically wired the actuators properly...
(modified with the wire colors from the 451m:)


Sorry about posting twice, but it appears that I cannot edit my previous posts with updates.

The common Actuator has two wires, one green one blue, remove them from the relay contraption that you hook them up to. Put +12 on green, and ground on blue. Actuator will move in one direction. Reverse the polarity, Actuator will move in the opposite direction, if not problem the problem lies with the actuator.

Use the Diagram that you have posted for the time being and forget about the 451m contraptions. Play around with it when you have the door lock working.    


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.