791xv, 93 civic

I'm looking at installing my first alarm as soon as it arrives, a 791xv, and I was doing my research on the install when I came across the idea to switch the ignition kill over to a fuel pump kill. Just how wise is this? Any complications or safety issues with this? 93 civic if that makes a difference or not. Thanks

This is a great idea and we use both starter kill and fuel. Just make sure you go through the inertia switch located (most likely) in the trunk. That's what that switch is for.

Alright, thanks for the info, but can you expand on this inertia switch? I've never heard of such a component. I thought it was just as simple as interupting a power wire or something like that. I'm still in the process of finding out more info, as the idea just dawned on me last night.

I know on fords the inertia switch is in the trunk on most cars..passenger kick on most trucks. What it does is under impact to the vehicle it will shut off the fuel pump..like a breaker in a way. I did the fuel cutoff in the trunk of my mustang at the inertia switch(the wires from that go to the fuel pump motor) as it is very unlikly that a thief will check there. I used a seperate N/O keypad for that, and used the standard starter kill with the security..a backup system or "layering" of protection if you will..this is the most effective way to foil a thief.

As far as Honda I do not know where the inertia switch is located of if it even utilizes one but what I would do is find the fuse for the fuel pump and interuppt it at the wire behind the fuse box. Make VERY good connections (solder) because this is a safty issue. Basically if the starter interupt ever was to fail it would prevent the vehicle from starting...an inconvience in most cases. But if a fuel or ignition interupt was to come apart it will stall the vehicle while driving....this can lead to disaster so keep that in mind.

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ford is the only company that i know of that ahs them

Can anyone else confirm this?

Get a wiring diagram for your car. It's the only way to know for sure where to tap into. And don't take the soldiering suggestion lightly. If you do a bad job of making a connection the car will die on you when it most inconvenient, you can bet on that .

I have a 93 civic dx, without power locks, that I just added a 5 wire actuator kit to. I don't have the alarm installed yet, a 791xv, but I have gotten through the actuators and they work just fine. My question is how do I go about linking the alarm to the actuators? The two common wires, that go to both the driver and passenger sides are blue and green wires, then the 5 wire actuator has additional white, brown, and black wires. Then, these all go back to some small central box, which has a fused +12v and a ground. The packaging box that it came with, a cheapo china brand, showed 2 extra wires that are suppose to be on the electronics "brain" as an alarm connection, but aren't actually present. Now with the 791xv, there is the blue +/- lock output and the green -/+ output. Do I just connect the two green and two blue wires together using relays? Or can I just straight connect? Or am I wrong all together? Also, knowing that this is a 5 wire actuator, would I only need to connect the wires to the driver's door? Lots of questions, but I apprectiate you reading through this. Let me know if you need any clarifications, or pictures if desperately needed. Thanks!

 most of those 5 wire kits have the 2 xtra wires that will lock and unlock thru  a negative pulse. In this case you can connect to alarm directly. If the wires dont exist--- then--- What i would do is open up th brain box which is basically a 2 relays and solder on to the appropriate terminals 85 or 86 of each relay

so are you saying split the two alarm door lock wires and send one wire to both 85's and the other to both 86's?

you will need 1 relay for lock (both doors) and 1 relay for unlock (both doors)

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I'm in the process of the 791xv install, basically I have a half functional alarm that is sitting in the glove box... not hidden yet nor adjusted, nor completely hooked up. The only question is - what wires are still needed to be hooked up before the alarm will reset the activated zones, ie, when the alarm is triggered for testing, the LED wont stop flashing to show which zones were triggered even when the car is started....

Thanks

I want to guess its something to do with the relay satellite? Is that correct?

nvm - just hooked it all up and now its dandy