GM product ?

I try to put remote starter unit on a GM product, but I couldn’t get it to start, so to make the story short…I didn’t paid as well as wasted 3 3/4 hours of my life I will never get back.   I don’t like GM product, but yet I continue to run in to them.   If someone got any feedback to my story I love to hear it. I sure couldn’t find the answer.

Note: I have done enough of VATS to be able to do them blindfolded, but this is the first I got stuck on.

Vehicle is a Buick and VATS system. No factory alarm.

Remote starter power up and shut down right away. It doesn’t even get to crank. Does that on 2nd, 3rd attempt. Diagnostic reading from RS is no tach signal detected.

Tach is 2.4 A/C reading and learned by module. Replace 3 unit in total on the test, same result.

OK, VATS are not correctly setup. 5% tolerance, well I am 1 ohm off (the pellet in the key ) using a relay and a resistor, resistor is center of main harness in the even if it is too far from the key cylinder, yes key side and bcm side are correct, (87a, 30). Relay working, resistor working and many times, but not on this date. Maybe I am too close to the tolerance.

Hood pin remove, brake light, parking remove, doorlocks remove just in case there maybe feedback, still no go.

Ground next to factory bolt ground.

Only thing working. Lock and Unlock.
     
Ah… battery problem, 12.37V reading. Not an issue, because there is no hesitation with the car starting with key. No amperage issue either because a second battery 12.65V booster eliminated any doubt about power issue.

I can't seem to find out why it will power up everthing and shut down right away. I thought only Ford and Chrysler product do that.

Humour me if you guys got any ideas why.

BTW, does VATS not make some sort of cranking first before it close you down if the resistence is incorrect?

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.;)

 What is the year, make, and model of the vehicle in question? What kind of alarm?    Voltage threshold  <.5 V

Had a Cavalier act  like this once- found out that the factory preset "jumper" for 2nd ignition was on "accessory" - moved the jumper and all was fine-- I always go inside the brain box now and verify the factory default settings- I lost 1/2 hr over this one- I was using the 2nd ignition to power the theft bypass module- and it would not power during crank when set on accessory...........just a thought.......

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

topper wrote:

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 What is the year, make, and model of the vehicle in question? What kind of alarm?    Voltage threshold  <.5 V

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01 Century, Autostart, starter only.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

brcidd wrote:

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Had a Cavalier act  like this once- found out that the factory preset "jumper" for 2nd ignition was on "accessory" - moved the jumper and all was fine-- I always go inside the brain box now and verify the factory default settings- I lost 1/2 hr over this one- I was using the 2nd ignition to power the theft bypass module- and it would not power during crank when set on accessory...........just a thought.......

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I didn't miss this part. Try 3 other unit same result.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

You need to  connect the 2nd ignitions wich is a white wire

fivestar wrote:

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You need to  connect the 2nd ignitions wich is a white wire

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Thanks.

I still haven't miss the forest from the trees.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

wrong resistance on vats wire will cause no crank, what is the resistance on the key pellet? what resistance areyou using in your relay? i never trust the 10% tolerance rule i always try to be as close as possible if not exact, also, how is your relay wired, timing of relay igniting may be at the wrong pace than car requires

Wat year and car is it i deal with Gm all day at work

jim hunter,

The pellet on the Key meter at - 3010 ohm, with my fluke meter.

Relay and my resister - 3009 ohm, I am 1 ohm off.

Key side and bcm side is on the money, also when the other way.


fivestar,

01 century.


I can't seem to get why it power my remote starter unit down. It doesn't even give it a chance to crank. My college and I were stump. Never happen to us before.




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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Just a shot in the dark, but did you connect the neutral safety switch? And did you try diagnosing with the safety switch wire grounded?

CutDog504 wrote:

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Just a shot in the dark, but did you connect the neutral safety switch? And did you try diagnosing with the safety switch wire grounded?

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CutDog504, thanks for the long shot, but no, I never have done a vehicle with a VATS system that requires neutral safety switch. I don't see the reason behind it, but it is worth another look if I ever encounter something like this again. My reasoning here is that I have done many cars with the VATS and along with the wiring program that I use, it never suggest that I will need the neutral safety switch, so I can't seem to be convince that would be the cause. The only logical explaination I can think of is a bad resistor with a sensitive VATS system.   My question to any one who is familar with GM VATS is, if the VATS is trip with the incorrect resistence. Will you still be able to crank the starter or the entire system completely shut down? If someone has hot wire and trip one of these I would love to know because I haven't. It would really help explain why the remote starter power off without any chance of cranking the car.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Is it possible to put the unit in voltage sense mode instead of tach sensing? If so, I would try using that and see what the results are.

JWorm,

I thought it was a tach issue too, but I ran in to an Accord that had a tach issue, only thing there is that it would allow the starter to crank for a period before shutting down. This situation, the unit didn't even have a chance. As soon as it goes on, it goes off immediatly. Autostart has tach sense only and was learned by the unit.

   

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Did you use either the PURPLE / white or white at the coil pack for tach?

I have seen some units react strangely to using the PURPLE / white. It may meter fine, and the unit may learn the signal but for some reason it causes problems. I suggest using the white.

I took white, Astro, Direct, Omega had white. 2.2 volts.   

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Well this may sound dumb but are both of your constants getting 12 volts? Just an idea..

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Yes, both are getting 12.43V.    

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

So the output on the remote start tries to power the starter wire but nothing happens? hmmm.. Heres a test for ya, try just running the resistor for the vats from bcm side to the uncut vats wire. This permanetly bypasses the vats. If it starts like this with key then the remote start should work. Just another idea.

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Power up then off right away.

This is the second car I got stump on. I will do that if I encounter this again. Maybe a bypass module first before your suggestion. I didn't have more time to try thing further because customer needed the car back and I do understanding. Patient and confident will wear off after a long wait, so none the less it is people you are dealing with here. Some are better understanding than other.       

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Another trick I've used twice, I copied the key at the hardware store, but I made sure they used a plain metal blank. Did this on a vats car, and a transponder car that I was having problems with. If you bypass everything correctly then it will start with that copied key. If not, then it helps you narrow down your problem to the bypass. But try to be very discreet about this, because customers will get upset if they end up finding out you copied their key, regardless of the reason you copied it.

Thanks for the tip CutDog504, I will put them to my notes. I only want and hope I won't ever have to use it.

That's the thing with this job, you love and hate it. When you have limited time on an install there seems to be an infinite amount of problems that comes up. Even on a routine install that you have done a million times over.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Thanks for the tip CutDog504, I will put them to my notes. I only want and hope I won't ever have to use it.

That's the thing with this job, you love and hate it. When you have limited time on an install there seems to be an infinite amount of problems that comes up. Even on a routine install that you have done a million times over.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Thanks for the tip CutDog504, I will put them to my notes. I only want and hope I won't ever have to use it.

That's the thing with this job, you love and hate it. When you have limited time on an install there seems to be an infinite amount of problems that comes up. Even on a routine install that you have done a million times over.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.