Dome light Diode

Hey iam new here and ive been reading about the dioide on the dome light in GM trucks, i have a viper 791 w/remote start installed in my car and i tired putting a dioide on the dome like wire but that cut all the signals so even when a door was open it didnt show. Anyone show me or explain specifically how its done, Thanks

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Suburban boy

dude what are you talking about.....please explain in detail what you are trying to do

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

okay when you install the alarm door tirger, i hooked it up to the dome light supervision wire, so when the dome light turns on (door open) the alarm is tigered however on the chevy's the dome liek stays on a few seconds after teh door is closed which also tigers the alarm is there a way to prevent this? Thanks

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Suburban boy

Yes there is....and it does not require a diode. All a diode will do is prevent the brain from seeing the door trigger at all which is what happened when you tried to use one.

look at the programming features chart in the manual. program the door sensor bypass chirp to "off"and this will wait for a length of time and ignore the signal from the door trigger when using domelight supervision for a door trigger on the vipers. I usually do it this way to save time and it works no problem.

Now what I don't understand is when you state it caused the alarm to trigger. regardless the dei's are designed so that if it picks up a door open when you arm it gives a second "chirp" to signify an open entry point on the doors and once the trigger signal goes away it should arm as normal and protect the doors.

You will find the feature in menu 2..advanced programming. It is easier with a bitwriter if you vs. programming manually however it gives clear directions. You just need to read it a few times because it might seem confusing at first if you have never done it before.

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I just did exactly what master5 recommends. It works great. The menus are a pain but I think the sequenece is this:

1. Open Door and leave open
2. Turn key to RUN position and back to OFF
3. Press and hold the Valet Button until the correct menu chirps / blinks on the status LED. In this case, hold till there are 2 chirps for menu 2.
4. Determine which feature you wan to program. Press the valet button the number of times as the feature you want.
5. Press and hold the valet button one last time.
6. While holding the valet button, using your remote press the unlock button to select the item in the right column of the install manual or the lock button to select the item in the left side of the install menu. In this case, I believe you want to press the unlock button.
7. Release the valet button.

To exit programming mode, turn the key back to run and then off again. You will hear a loud siren alerting you that you exited programming mode.

It's a little weird the first couple of times, but it gets easier with practice.

Hope this helps!

if the valet switch program is too hard get a bitwriter online

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yeah, I much prefer using the bitwriter even though it needs to be updated all the time. But, for a DIY'er it is probably a waste of money if they don't do alot of DEI installs.

Once you get the hang of doing it manually it becomes so natural that it doesn't really take much time at all. As well if you need to change the programming in the future it is at times easier to do it through the switch and remote then locating the brain to plug the bitwriter in.

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thanks guys iam going to order a bitwriter cause it seems much easier plus ill be able to program other features,

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Suburban boy

Cool

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hey guys now i got another problem, the battery keeps on dying on me....anyone have similar problems, i checked and rechecked all the wiring seems to be good but i unplugged the viper no battery drain......

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Suburban boy

Ok you need to do whats called a current draw test. You must connect a DMM in series with any power wires in question..as well as any relays to check the draw. See diagram...

current_draw_test.jpg

Now a normal draw will be 7 to 10 millamps for the entire vehicle when parked , doors shut and key off...up to 20 millamps is acceptable. Any more then that could definatly kill a standard battery overnight. If a relay is miswired and the coil is energized while the vehicle is parked..it is about 150ma..that is a problem. Once you find the wire, circuit or relay that is drawing the excessive current..post back if you can't figure out why and we will help. There are way to many variables for anyone to "guess"correctly what is causing this.

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And just to note it is NOT normal for a security or remote start system to kill a battery. If this has happened to anyone else it could be many things..including a defective brain..which I have seen before but it is not very common.

If systems normally killed batteries there would be millions of vehicles dead every morning. A system designed to be installed into a vehicle surely takes into account the current draw.

More often then not I find relays that are wired wrong causing dead batteries..but things like miswiring can also cause lights to stay on..another popular method for killing the battery.

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Well guys i found the problem its a relay that i installed to turn on my aux lights with the remote,that current test works wonders.......Thanks for all the help

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Suburban boy

Glad to help..

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