Viper Relay Satellite

(for the viper alarm I was aparently not supposed to be able to buy).

I hooked all of the relay satellite wires up, except the GREEN, anti grind wire, and the RED / White wire, listed as:
(+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
The other 2 Red wires are connected.

could this be causing the car to not remote start?

You can just say "duh" if that is the case.

If by the green wire you mean the same green heavy gauge wire that comes off the relay satellite, you should really consider the benefits of a professional installer. Did your alarm come with any manuals? As far as the RED / white wire, yeah, "duh" about covers it.
The green wire goes to the "key" side of the starter wire in most applications. The purple side goes to the "output" side of the starter wire.
We definitely need more info to help you out. What make, model, year; all the info you get if you read the yellow box that pops up when you push the "New Topic" button...

It is an `05 grand am, Viper 5900, GMDLBP bypass module.
I understood the green wire was anti-grind, Which I don'nt need because My key only requires a momentary turn to start
and you can let it go, it's own anti grind.

The main problem is the remote start wont start the car, unless I put the key in and turn to run, not start.

otherwise it just turns the ignition on, then off, on then off, And the doors lock and unlock with the ignition.
after it trys three times, it stops, and the bypass module flashes the lights and beeps the horn once.
I know its the module beeping the horn, because if i touch the (ground when running) wire from the bypass to ground, it flashes the lights and beeps the horn.

I would not need a professional installer if the manual was not so vauge. they even misprinted the polarity of the lock/unlock wire harness.

Granted I did buy the unit from a non-authorized DEI dealer. Maybe that is why.

There is a whole website (Directechs.com) full of this information that we can't access.

Not to insult your occupation, but I could be an alarm installer if I wanted to. I actually can't stand car alarms, and never thought remote start was necessary. This is all going in my girlfriends Grand Am.

Thanks.

Do you think it could be the tach wire?
I just realized the wiring diagram on this site says a white wire, and the Bulldog site says its a different wire.

troutkill wrote:

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Do you think it could be the tach wire?
I just realized the wiring diagram on this site says a white wire, and the Bulldog site says its a different wire.

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I take that back.

Idk the internals of the relay satellite, but I would assume that all those 12v inputs are necessary, as they serve as the power sources for those internal relays. I may be wrong and maybe that is not needed, but check all the wiring on the starter wires - if the ignition comes on, but no starter.... that'd be my first sign to check something with that...

HMM..
It is kind of weird.
All the ignition wiring checks out, i even hooked up the green starter side wire, and hooked the unused red wire to +12v.
It is almost like it seems like a draw between either the bypass not working, or the satellite is switching one of the ignition wires as accessory, (cutting it off as the start process begins).

But then again the starter works fine in remote start with the key inserted and turned to the first position.

Is there any good way to check if it is the bypass, without buying another one? I live in the bookdocks and it will take a while to get a new bypass.

That should have said "Boon-docks."

if the unit works fine with the key turned one position that should tell you something.... it seems like you are not powering a required ign or acc wire......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Yea, thats what I though, but there is only IGN1 (Pink)
And IGN2 (Dark Green)

I have them hooked as per the instruction manual.

The system on my car is passlock II right?

If the bypass is not working, will the passlock let the car start, but not run?
Or does it cut off the fuel pump and starter before it even gets to the cranking point.

cause, correct me if I am wrong, with the key inserted and turned one position, that will clear the passlock and let the car start right?

Just to clarify, the manual says nothing about the red white wire from the satellite. It says the other 2 wires should be hooked to your ignition +12 constant.

if it was a passlock issue it still wouldnt start even with the key turned one notch.....  did you power both acc wires?  is it possible you are powering an ign as an acc?? (it thereby dropping out during crank)

i am reading the install guide for a 5900 right in front of me and on the last page (p59) it clearly says both red are 12V constant input and the RED / white is 12v constant input

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I powered the Oranje accessory wire, but not the brown.
Do you think it would be ok to piggy back the third RED / black wire onto one of the 2 red 12+ constants (before the fuse).

I already have a bunch of wires soldered to the ignition harness and it is getting kind of bulky.

Does anyone know what the function of the domelight input wire on the GMDLBP is?


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`84 GPZ900

I got it working, and I feel like an expert now... ;>
Duh is all I can say.
Sorry for asking before thinking.
This forum is a valuable resource for this kind of stuff.
Thanks to all those who replied.

What area of the system should I look at to see why my radio comes on when I arm/disarm the alarm?
It is one of those radios that stays on until you open the door.
It only stays on for 10 minutes so it wont drain the battery, but it looks silly.