2006 tundra keyless entry problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=90174
Printed Date: June 01, 2024 at 4:54 PM
Topic: 2006 tundra keyless entry problem
Posted By: thomasl
Subject: 2006 tundra keyless entry problem
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 4:58 PM
Trying to sort a problem out with a keyless entry systemon a 2006 Toyota Tundra 4 door. I have a diagram from DEI that calls for 3 diff wires: A: RED / yellow B: lt green / black C: lt green / red My keyless entry has 2 wires: Green(-lock +unlock) and blue(-unlock + lock) pulse.. Ive tied into the wires coming directly to the gray pin fromthe door. But the wires I get for lock is blue/red and unlock is RED / black. Neither green or blue wire from keyless entry works with the blue/red or red black wires from the door locks. Can anyone help?! THANNKS!!
Replies:
Posted By: thomasl
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 6:59 PM
by the way I am installing a Commando FM-870-TK 2-Way Car Alarm, Remote Starter, LCD Pager w/Temp Sensor & Driver Paging Sensor. Do you know if I need an aftermarket door lock module? Getting frustrated with this buy, and they have the worst customer service/tech support. 
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 7:12 PM
What wires at the "gray pin coming from the door?"
The correct three wires listed in that diagram are at the driver's-front power window switch, inside the door.
If you don't want to go into the door, there are modules available from www.bypasskit.com. I'd rather save the money and go into the door, but it's up to you.
If you've connected the alarm's doorlock outputs directly to the doorlock motor wires that are in the driver's kick panel, it is highly possible that the alarm is already damaged. Disconnect the alarm's lock/unlock outputs from the car, and test them to see if the outputs still work.
Posted By: thomasl
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 7:58 PM
those were the wires coming from the door. They tie into the grey pin. This is where I tied into the wires and it didnt work. The alarm is still good. Still no luck- Can you tell me how I can tie directly into the door? I can get to the switches pretty easily. BUt the same wires that are there, are the ones I tied into right before I got to the grey pin.
Posted By: cutter1122
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 8:03 PM
the good wire for your doorlock is in driver door Note: Meter these wire while turning the key in the driver door!
Posted By: thomasl
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 8:06 PM
will try now- tnks
Posted By: thomasl
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 8:41 PM
Posted By: cutter1122
Date Posted: February 07, 2007 at 10:06 PM
try this lock: light GREEN/ black unlock: lt.GREEN/ red safety: RED / yellow 
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 6:42 AM
cutter1122 wrote:
the good wire for your doorlock is in driver door Note: Meter these wire while turning the key in the driver door!
These are incorrect. Go with Cutters diagram, the wires are directly on the back of the drivers switch. The diode in the lock wire isn't needed. Use the thick blue wire on the switch for 12volts to power the relay. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 4:18 PM
i would look into using a TOYDL...... i dont get the guys who'll spend 2 hours pi**ing around with relays and diodes instead of using a $20-30 module that works...... ------------- Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:18 PM
cutter1122 wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
the good wire for your doorlock is <blue/red (unlock/disarm)2 pulses> <Lt.GREEN/ black or WHITE/ green (lock/arm)> in driver door
Note: Meter these wire while turning the key in the driver door!
That's only true for the regular-cab, and extended cab (with two small rear suicide doors).
If it's a true 4-door, with four doors that open up like a regular car, those wires don't exist.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:21 PM
thomasl wrote:
those were the wires coming from the door. They tie into the grey pin. This is where I tied into the wires and it didnt work. The alarm is still good. Still no luck- Can you tell me how I can tie directly into the door? I can get to the switches pretty easily. BUt the same wires that are there, are the ones I tied into right before I got to the grey pin.
You say the alarm is still good because it works, or you've tested the doorlock outputs from the alarm?
And is the truck truly a four-door, "crew cab" body style? Four regular doors that all open the same way, just like in ordinary sedans?
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 5:32 PM
kgerry wrote:
i would look into using a TOYDL...... i dont get the guys who'll spend 2 hours pi**ing around with relays and diodes instead of using a $20-30 module that works......
Wow, this takes me15 minutes. My bet is it takes Chris about the same. The entire alarm install shouldn't take two hours. The TOYDL is great for those less experienced.... ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: February 08, 2007 at 6:32 PM
thats exactly what i was gonna say, the door panel doesn't even have to come off to run the wires......15 minutes
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