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1998 olds aurora pass key ii

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=93397
Printed Date: June 03, 2024 at 12:29 PM


Topic: 1998 olds aurora pass key ii

Posted By: necro
Subject: 1998 olds aurora pass key ii
Date Posted: April 27, 2007 at 2:33 PM

Ok i have had it with this car i just dumped 200 into a new bearing and CV Axle and not this, its the classic PASS KEY II error, clean key wait 3 min. it did it once and i waited started up no problem, the next day nothing, i tore the dash apart and i believe the PASS KEY module is attached to the Lower driver side Dash Panel, now i understand the Pass Key Module sends a signal to the ECM, the problem is i can't get the car started, so i don't have a reference output signal to duplicate... any ideas?



Replies:

Posted By: customak47
Date Posted: April 27, 2007 at 3:25 PM
use an ohm meter and put the leads on both sides of the chip in the key. It will read a certain resistance in ohms, go to radio shack and get a 1/2 watt resistor that matches the resistance of the chip in the key, find the thin wires along the steering column under the dash that are in orange shrinkwrap, cut them and wire the resistor in on the side going away from the column, one end of the resistor to each wire. this will trick the car into thinking the key is in all the time and bypasses the theft system.




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: April 27, 2007 at 3:37 PM

ok so are u saying they will be in orang flex tube? because there are a lot of wires underneath their, also im not sure if its the sensors, or if its the Pass Key Module it self that is not working





Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: April 27, 2007 at 4:38 PM
It is generally the ignition switch that is the failure point, I wouldn't worry much about the PASS-Key module just yet.

You might also visit www.thirdgen.org, click on
Technical Articles, and click on the VATS section----it'll go into a little more detail.

But basically, do customak said. If the car starts reliably after that, you're all set.

Two other things:

--Do be sure to do quality, careful work when connecting your resistor. Then, zip-tie your stuff in place to keep it from flapping around. If the connection were to break, the car wouldn't start.

--Keep in mind that the airbag wiring is usually encased in yellow tubing or tape. The VATS wires are definitely orange, NOT yellow.




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 01, 2007 at 4:41 PM
ok well i've a circuit (i had to make one because i couldn't find just a 7.5 k resistor so i used a couple and added up to it) but how do i know which wires to cut? i mean there are a million of them, some the same color some not.. and the ignition its self doesn't have any visible wires coming from, i found a set and tried those but that wasn't it, i have a feeling they are for that little light that illuminates the "Start, Acc." plastic part.




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: May 01, 2007 at 8:39 PM
The wires you need are usually two very thin white wires. They are covered in either an orange or black insulation. If you follow the wires that come off the ignition switch they head to a large connector plug next to the drivers kick panel, at the firewall. The white wires will be visible there. They change to WHITE/ black and PURPLE / white on the back of the large connector plug. The wires are in positions A16 and A17 of the connector.

-------------
sparky




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 02, 2007 at 7:26 AM
ok so i think the wires i cut were right, they were two thin white wires, that went from the ignition over the column and then only go knows where, so i had it hooked up with alligator clips, now the car has been sitting and i have probably tried and failed to start it about 25 times, i hooked the circuit up and tried to fire up, no go, so i let it sit, and then the message eventually dissappeared and it hasn't had any problem starting since, at least yet... so problem resolved im hoping?




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 02, 2007 at 11:43 AM

yea that was it, the wires came up over the steering colum and into the ignition, circuit works fine, thanks for the help





Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 15, 2007 at 5:52 AM
Ok that fixed the problem for a little while. now its doing it again, i have checked my resistance and its at 7.51k the key 7.44k the max is 7.8, so why would it still say Clean Key wait 3 min




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 15, 2007 at 9:26 AM
ok well the car is in my friends driveway right now so a better question is other than getting it towed, how can i get it to my house, can i just do the srewdriver at the starter trick?




Posted By: necro
Date Posted: May 15, 2007 at 12:10 PM
nevermind i anwsered my own question, no it won't work because the fuel injectors won't go, i have the circuit set up right the wires are not damaged, when the key turns i hear relays go but thats it,





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