alarms with manual arm, disarm

Hey all,

I have been planning on installing a Viper 5900 remote start in my 07 expedition, but I've come to find out that it is not capable of interfacing with my factory keyless entry door keypad.  This is a feature my wife and I use ALL the time so I don't want to give it up.

I've read that Code Alarms have a wire on them for manual arm / disarm, and switch sense, but I've also read a number of posts bashing Code-Alarm, so I'm a bit leary to have one installed.  Are there any other major brands that have the ability to interface with my factory keyless entry door keypad?

I'm looking for something with 900Mhz technology for the extended range if possible.

Thanks in advance,

Russell

Unless I misunderstood, why would you want to punch a bunch of numbers on a door when you have a 2-way transmitter in your hand?

BTW, the 5900 is an awsome choice. << thumbs up>>

Big Dog,

Actually, the keypad interface is awesome for when my wife and I travel together, which is most of the time.  Only 1 of us has to carry a keyfob, the other can simply use the keypad on the door to get into the car and lock it again.  When we go out and are apart from each other (running after the kids or whatever) I don't have to worry about having a transmitter, just hit the keypad.  I thought it would be a gimmick but we use it all the time.  Just this last weekend I used the keypad probably 5 times.

I love the 5900 but it can't interface with the keypad.  So far, the only company that seems to offer the ability is code alarms but their 1mile system isn't out yet.

I have thought about hardwiring a second transmitter inside the car, to the door keypad, but from what I can tell, the LCD transmitters eat batteries pretty quickly and the 5900 doesn't have a non-lcd remote that I'm aware of.

Russell

Now I get it

Let me think about this one.

Here's a start. I quickly sketched this but it will give you or others a base to build upon.

Using the unlock motor wire, trigger a relay which activates ignition then sends a single valet disarm pulse until the 470 mfd cap times out. Using the orange ground when armed would activate the relay only if the aftermarket security is armed.

I didn't try it but in theory it should work. In a worst case scenario we might need to open the siren wire momentarily and/or send the valet pulse delayed in comparison to the ignition.

So, let me see if I understand.  The positive door unlock pulse activates the relay which triggers the ignition input on the 5900 and the valet switch.  When the cap dissipates, the valet is "un-pushed" and the system is effectively disarmed.  Does that sound right?

I suppose I'd need another relay to do a similar thing for arming the system when locking the doors from the keypad?

Very tricky!  And a great diagram too.  You put that together quick!

In reading the 5900 manual, it states

"To disarm the security system, turn the ignition to the ON position.  Press the Valet button the preset number of times (one to five times) within 15 seconds.  After five seconds, the system will disarm."

So that won't work out very well.  However, normal function of the valet switch is to:

turn ignition to on, then off, then push valet button.  So I think that the ignition would have to be pulsed, followed by the valet switch.

Perhaps like this? (sorry for the bad paint image :))

Ignition on then off then press valet is to put the system into valet mode after it's disarmed.

Whereas,simply turning ignition on then pressing the valet switch will disarm . . .after 5 seconds. Leave the valet code at a single press for simplicity. During these 5 seconds, the siren might begin to wail (because it saw ignition while armed) so you might have to put a relay to open the siren wire simultaneously.

BTW, I didn't realize you wanted to arm the system as well. Now it gets complicated. This requires that you program the system into "auto-arm". It will always auto arm when the vehicle is exited and the last door is closed. Obviously you'd have to set it up for "auto lock" as well and live with the consequences.

This is beginning to look like a PIC chip project.

I was actually just thinking that a PIC chip might be the better way to go.

You know, there are a LOT of Ford's and other vehicles out there with these factory door keypads, I'm surprised that no one has come up with an interface for them.  It seems like it would be a pretty useful project.  I wish I knew more about PIC chips because I'd make a simple 5-wire interface with a relay on board and sell it to the installers on this board.  I imagine it would be a pretty good seller :)  I did a search for keypad here and there were a few threads asking about keypad integration, so I know it's at least an item of interest.

I guess my other option is to simply spend the extra $100 on an additional transmitter and hard wire it into the system.  I'm sure I could use the negative pulse from the keypad to trigger a relay to momentarily close the "disarm" button on the transmitter.  Same thing for the "arm" button.  I could also hardwire the transmitter's power source, assuming it could take 12V.  That might actually be easier than trying to program a PIC?  What do you think?

Thanks,

Russell

Maybe this will help https://ill-logix.com/ 

I've never used it but it might be a solution.

That looks pretty cool!  I think I've seen things like that before, I'll have to double check.

I was also thinking about the spare remote idea.  Using 2 relays and a 12V to 1.5V voltage regulator, I think I could wire it up to arm and disarm based on the keypad output.

I'm going to draw up a diagram and see what you think.

Russell

How about this setup?

I think there needs to be some capacitors added to keep power to the transmitter longer and to the arm / disarm buttons, but I'm not sure what value.  There might also need to be some more diodes.

Only 1 of us has to carry a keyfob, the other can simply use the keypad on the door to get into the car and lock it again. 

I appreciate the effort, and the desire to do something wild, cool, and out of the ordinary. The diagrams and all. Neat stuff.

But, what is your time worth. My time wouyld be worth more than the cost of another transmitter.  Just a thought. AND, I'm not shooting down your idea....it's really a good one. specially to use that piece that BigDog found.

Well, we tend to keep our cars a LONG time.  Our last expedition we kept for 10 yrs and the only reason we replaced it was because it didn't have 3rd row seating, otherwise I'd plan to keep it another 10 yrs.  So, it would definitely be worth the extra $150 or so bucks to add an extra transmitter if it could be done.  Unfortunately, I'm not handy enough to know what needs to be isolated etc, so I need to find someone who understands this stuff better to help me out.

What I'll probably end up doing is just waiting for the new Code-Alarm unit to come out.  It has a 1mile range and a couple extra inputs for arm / disarm.  I know they're not the best quality of alarm, but it's the only one that has the arm / disarm input and it doesn't look like I'll be able to figure out the wiring for the Viper unit without some help.

Russell